I didn't have any sound but it sure looked great. Hoping to have my coupe running again before winter. The fellow installing the mains and crank has had my block for 8 years now. so I took him to small claims court and am holding $3000 of his dollars. I have a different block and am finishing tightening the rods now. not letting it out of my sight.
Congratulations !! I've followed your project for those years and worried if I'd live long enough see it move under its own power. Engine and tranny sound nice. Remember. give her regular exercise . I have 1000 miles on my rebuilt '32 and gain confidence after every trip.
Retorque the Head after it’s good and hot too, then readjust the valves. If your valves are a little noisy, they’re loose which is okay. If they’re quiet, you risk the chance of one of them being too tight so a little noise in my opinion is always safer.
Retorque the Head after it’s good and hot too, then readjust the valves. If your valves are a little noisy, they’re loose which is okay. If they’re quiet, you risk the chance of one of them being too tight so a little noise in my opinion is always safer.
will check and do
yeah figure no noise may mean things are too tight, and that is when things go south :(
AACA - VCCA - Stovebolt - ChevyTalk Love the Antique Chevrolet's from 1928-1932 The Beauty, Simplicity, History, and the Stories they Tell
Coolant level too high. Cold should be filled just to top of core. Air getting drawn in around the water pump shaft packing. Some air trapped in cooling system since you initially filled it.
It doesn't take much air initially to expand and cause it to puke. Watch it and see, You will run hotter temps while the engine is breaking in. You are running a 50/50 water/coolant mix and a thermostat?
1938 Canadian Pontiac Business Coupe (aka a 1938 Chevy Coupe with Pontiac shaped front sheet metal - almost all Chevy!) 1975 4-speed L82 Vette
running a 1 to 2 ratio, 1 gallon coolant (green non diluted), 2 gallons water (distilled) i did fill it up to the little plate in the radiator it is the NEWer style water pump from TFS with bearings
engines was redone per say before i got it, probably has about 2 hours on it, and under 10 miles, should i do anything special to break it in ??
AACA - VCCA - Stovebolt - ChevyTalk Love the Antique Chevrolet's from 1928-1932 The Beauty, Simplicity, History, and the Stories they Tell
Jerry, I would start by lowering the coolant level to just a 1/4" above the top of the core when cold. These cars do get hotter when you shut down as the residual heat in the block and head are no longer being dissipated. Leaving the upper tank of the radiator allows for some boiling and gurgling without blowing out the overflow.
It's also normal for the temp gauge to go up when you shut down, since the sensor is located in the head which is no longer getting cooled.
Are you using the original '29 head with the electrical heat gauge? If so, it only has four positions and is not a very accurate indication of how hot the engine is. Better than nothing, but not much better.
Jerry, I would start by lowering the coolant level to just a 1/4" above the top of the core when cold. These cars do get hotter when you shut down as the residual heat in the block and head are no longer being dissipated. Leaving the upper tank of the radiator allows for some boiling and gurgling without blowing out the overflow.
It's also normal for the temp gauge to go up when you shut down, since the sensor is located in the head which is no longer getting cooled.
Are you using the original '29 head with the electrical heat gauge? If so, it only has four positions and is not a very accurate indication of how hot the engine is. Better than nothing, but not much better.
All the Best, Chip
Thanks Chip, will check the level when i get home and see where it is at and where the core is at, and adjust as needed.
original head, seems to be later production valve set up, and looks to be the stock stock temp gauge, with 1 wire. few pictures below, some are before repaint and tear down
AACA - VCCA - Stovebolt - ChevyTalk Love the Antique Chevrolet's from 1928-1932 The Beauty, Simplicity, History, and the Stories they Tell
well too kit out for a small trip to the local drive in with local AACA club, about 6-7 miles from the house most all back roads, kept it around 25-35. car ran nice, smooth around around those speeds. temp stayed in the alc boils range, never above, even sitting at stop lights. when i got there and parked, (no hood still) i noticed a small amount steam/ smoke coming out around push rod cover and more so out of the oil fill tube. not a lot but a small trail easily seen. group ate, chatted, had ice cream then i headed back home. car was nice and cool when i left to go back. same trip home, parked in driveway and same trail of steam/smoke when i looked at engine. also noticed that the coolant level was down, i could see it in the Gano filter. when i left i had it about 1/2 above the top of the core in the radiator, once back home and cooled off about 4 inches lower. never puked or dumped when i parked at diner, or back home. so assume it is blowing it or burning it.
going to: 1-drain oil and see if coolant is in oil pan 2-do a compression check on each cylinder no plugs 1-6 see if any drastic difference
just a note block was redone before i acquired it, i have done the rocker arm assemblies set shims on mains & Rods on bottom end, as well as all new tappets and push rods from C&P
AACA - VCCA - Stovebolt - ChevyTalk Love the Antique Chevrolet's from 1928-1932 The Beauty, Simplicity, History, and the Stories they Tell
