VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1933-1936 Solved the vapor lock prob on the '33 Roadster

When i got the car, the timing was set a 0, so the car would (sometimes) turn over with the wimpy starter and tight rebuilt motor. It also lacked power, and was a dog going up steep hills and ran hotter than it should have.

I had the starter completely rebuilt last year, rebuilt from the rivets up, and had new high torque flied coils installed. It turns over like a modern V8 stater, now.

I also decided that 0 wasn't where the timing should be when i was looking at the dizzy last month, so I adjusted the timing knob and it is static timed at 10* BTDC now.

What a difference. Zips up those steep hills, runs 20* cooler at 160-180 now at 102*F ambient outside and the cooler running stopped the vapor lock, didn't even need the aux electric pump i put in. It will still come in useful for priming the carb after sitting for a while.

Doug

Without knowing where it timing was originally set, seeing the octane selector set a "0" means nothing. But advancing the timing with the octane selector as far as you can (too far and wiill kick-back when staritng) will give the best power and economy......
Just because the octane selector was at 0 does not mean the actual timing was at zero unless you set the actual timing your self.

I checked the timing.

0, was 0 at 0.

Doug

Yes, that is what the octane selector does. Yes, it will cause the car to run cooler when properly set. 10 is recommended for today's gas. [at least most of the comments posted here are for 10]. Here in my area I find that mine likes 8. So, adjustment is as needed. One thing I found most important is to lubricate the sliding part under the octane selector. This will reduce wear as it slides back and forth and prevent it from "hanging up".