Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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Joined: Oct 2008
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2008
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I attempted to remove the brake drums on my 1932 Chevy. I got the nut off and noticed that it will need a puller to take off. After the nut is off, is there a special puller to remove the drum? I remember as a young kid in my dad's garage, he had something to remove that. How tight do you put the nut back on when i go to install it.

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I had to use a three jaw puller on the rear wheel of my 31. I did try one of the axle knockers but it was useless. I had to put extreme pressure on mine and it flew off at high speed so you do not want to stand in it's path. The service manual for your car may be better but mine says make sure everything is real clean and the key and key way are in good shape, put the hub on then the washer and use the nut to pull the hub on. I got mine tight and then a little tighter so the new cotter pin would line up.

Dave

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One tip I learned many years ago was to not completely remove the nut whenever I am using any type of puller. That reduces the chances for major events when things finally come loose.

Normally I back the nut off so the face of the nut is flush with the end of the shaft. That will help to minimize any tendency of the threaded portion to "swell" due to pressure from the center screw of the puller.


Rusty

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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Thanks. That makes sense.

Joined: Oct 2008
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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I called Autozone and they had two differnt styles of pullers. I will have to take the pic and show them. The rental cost is 80 bucks. I will get my money back when i am done with it. Thanks

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I have three types of pullers that have been successful over the years. The best is the original style puller that is beehive shaped with internal threads matching the hub threads and center bolt. It is threaded on as far as possible, center bolt tightened and smacked. Depends on both the treads on the hub and puller to be in good shape. Works very well if all in good condition.It pulls directly on the hub not on the drum. The next best is a three arm puller with holes in the arms that go over the studs and are retained by lug nuts. Tighten as much as you dare and then smack the center bolt with large hammer. There is also a two arm version that is a close second (or third if counting). Normally only takes a few whacks. If it takes more then heating the hub can help. I have used three arm pullers with hooked ends and lug nuts put on backwards. Works but tends to fall off when smacked. Other two arm pullers are nearly worthless.


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Rusty, good idea on leaving the nut on!


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