Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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#429806 08/18/19 06:05 PM
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Ran today for about 15 minutes. My fuel pump tank sprang some more holes and had to shut it down. I can not tell if it is running ok. The exhaust sounds like a Popping Johnny. I can not tell if it needs a new muffler or is running rough.

Standing over the engine it sounds ok, but at the rear it sounds like a dragster with the muffler off????

1. Is there a epoxy spray I can coat the hole tank with???????????
2. How can I seal the entire tank????
3. Do I need a new muffler????

HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Last edited by dwpirkeyjr; 08/18/19 06:06 PM.

Johnny Reb
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The best way is to clean and purify all the holes in the tank. Then solder each one. Finally, use gas tank sealer to coat the inside of the outer tank and the inside of the inner tank. Use a new gasket for installing the top.

You probably don't need a new muffler. The popping sound is usually a result of a lean mixture. Your carb may need rebuilding or adjustment.

devil Agrin


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Chipper just did....I turned the screw every way and not much difference???

Last edited by dwpirkeyjr; 08/18/19 08:36 PM.

Johnny Reb
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I will get some sealer....I have done it before on my tractors....TY


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The screw held by the spring only changes the amount of dilution air in the low speed circuit. The carburetor ran well on my '28 test engine. Popping is most often a lean condition or late timing or weak spark.


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Thanks Chipper...How do I correct the lean condition????
I have a new 6v battery and a rebuilt starter.
I noticed a better spark when I ran a 12v through a resistor, but still popped.
How do I check the timing??? It has popped like that all along. I thought it was my muffler too....
Now I am concerned about the timing??


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Does your '27 have the early "REMY" 374-A distributor or the later "DELCO-REMY" 635-B distributor?Both are timed differently.


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Delco-Remy 635B


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Chipper..... Is this still the way?????????????? I found your old post.
There are six different positions that the flywheel can be installed. Therefore I don't rely on the flywheel marks. I time the engine by locating # 1 cylinder at top of compression stroke. Rotating the distributor so the rotor is under # 1 sparkplug wire and then rotating approximately 15 degrees counterclockwise. Snug the screw on the plate. Start the engine advance the lever on the steering column to full advance. Let the engine warm a little. Now slowly rotate the distributor until you get maximum idle speed and tighten the screw. When you retard the spark lever you should get a noticeable reduction in idle speed and smoothness. If you try to start the engine when cold without retarding the spark it will try to kickback but will spin well with spark retarded. Don't get any knocking with regular gas and have plenty of power considering the horsepower rating of the engine. Haven't used a timing light in probably 30 years. Don't think my light still works. Maybe it retired when I did?


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You can time the 635-B distributor 2 ways.Either using the 25 degree flywheel mark with the spark lever fully advanced,for No1. cyl on the compression stroke(if you trust the flywheel to be in the correct position),or bring No1. piston to top dead centre on the compression stroke,with the spark lever fully retarded,set the points to just crack open(in both cases)and make sure the rotor button is fully under the No1. sparkplug lead position.


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TY.......will try tomorrow...


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