Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



Visit the new site at vcca.org

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Rate Thread
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 60
otrex Offline OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
OP Offline
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 60
Hello everyone,

I have my 1941 Master Deluxe on the road and running well expect that from time to time it bogs out when the accelerator is pressed about 1/3rd. Based on other feedback I've received here, I suspect the fuel sender is covered in crud of some kind.

Is there any way to access this without dropping the gas tank completely? If I have to drop the tank completely I suppose I should take the opportunity to clean it out in case other gunk is floating around too.

I've also heard that there is a filter sock covering the sender itself and someone suggested that I simply remove that as I have an inline filter in the fuel line. Any thoughts on that?

Thanks!

Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,323
Likes: 6
ChatMaster - 2,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 2,000
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,323
Likes: 6
I guess you are referring to the fuel outlet on the tank. The fuel sender tells the fuel gauge how much gas there is.


My 1951 1 Ton is now on the road! My 38 Master 4 Door is also now on the road .
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 60
otrex Offline OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
OP Offline
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 60
Apologies, yes, I believe you are correct.

Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 828
Likes: 6
ChatMaster - 750
Offline
ChatMaster - 750
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 828
Likes: 6
You will need to drop the tank there is no sock in a 41. It would be a good time to have the tank cleaned a coated or replace with a new one.


Dens Chevys 1927 Speedster 1928 coupe 1941street rod 1947Fleetline 4 door 1949 1/2 ton Pickup (sold) 1954 210 4 door 1972 Monte Carlo 2003 Corvette convt..
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 373
Likes: 1
Backyard Mechanic
Offline
Backyard Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 373
Likes: 1
I don't know how much time, money, and effort you are going to put into cleaning the old one, but you can get a nice replacement for about $200 from

www.tanksinc.com

I used one in a 1948 fleetline and worked fine.


VCCA Member 51121

Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 4,024
Likes: 99
ChatMaster - 4,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 4,000
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 4,024
Likes: 99
I strongly encourage you to do it right and replace the tank. I am learning that lesson the hard way!

There are plenty of horror stories about problems with cleaning and trying to apply a sealer. I would never consider that.

I personally am very close to replacing the original tank on my '37 Master coupe. I have removed it and had it cleaned twice. The last time was just a year ago. I still get a lot of very fine oxidation particles (rust colored) that plugs the fuel filter about every 750-800 miles. I run non-ethanol gas and use the Stabil 360 in it.

For the cost of cleaning the tank twice I could have a new tank. I was just hoping to keep the original. The exterior looks great because it is not exposed to any weather. Inside is a different story.


Rusty

VCCA #44680
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 6,689
Likes: 21
ChatMaster - 6,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 6,000
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 6,689
Likes: 21
Get a new tank.

Use 10% ethanol gas.

Savings will pay for the tank in no time.

Only well heeled folks use straight gasoline with no ethanol or they assume (brain-washed) ethanol is harmful. Remember that the water will separate over time. So drive it now and then. Read the horror stories with a grain of salt. I believe that notion is Just smoke and mirrors for the gullible. wizard

Same with anything over 87 octane. If your car doesn't call for it that's even more money wasted and really is something that will harm your car

My opinion.

Charlie computer

Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,295
Likes: 2
ChatMaster - 1,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 1,000
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,295
Likes: 2
Originally Posted by otrex
Hello everyone,

I have my 1941 Master Deluxe on the road and running well expect that from time to time it bogs out when the accelerator is pressed about 1/3rd. Based on other feedback I've received here, I suspect the fuel sender is covered in crud of some kind.

Is there any way to access this without dropping the gas tank completely? If I have to drop the tank completely I suppose I should take the opportunity to clean it out in case other gunk is floating around too.

I've also heard that there is a filter sock covering the sender itself and someone suggested that I simply remove that as I have an inline filter in the fuel line. Any thoughts on that?

Thanks!

Since no one has mentioned the bog your having trying to accelerate I would check the the accelerator pump in the carburetor ,
maybe a rebuild is in order ? hood


p.k.

1956 BEL AIR 2 DOOR HARDTOP

I've spent most of my money on Booze,Women and mechanical things. The rest I just Wasted........

Remember , I'm not Always Right. But I'm Never Wrong !
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 60
otrex Offline OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
OP Offline
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 60
Hi P.K., We think alike! I had the carb rebuilt and also put in a brand new fuel pump. Given that it still bogs, the only thing left in the fuel delivery system is, I think, the fuel outlet.

Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701
Likes: 141
ChatMaster - 25,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 25,000
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701
Likes: 141
The fuel pick-up in the tank does not have a sock. That was a new feature in 1955.


Gene Schneider
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,323
Likes: 6
ChatMaster - 2,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 2,000
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,323
Likes: 6
I had my 38 Master tank restored at the Gas Tank Exchange in Etobicoke. It wasn't cheap but they did a good job. they blasted it inside and out, installed a new outlet and coated it inside and out. I have used it for two years with no problems. http://gastankexchange.com/

Last edited by old216; 08/13/19 09:09 PM.

My 1951 1 Ton is now on the road! My 38 Master 4 Door is also now on the road .

Link Copied to Clipboard
 

Notice: Any comments posted herein do not necessarily reflect the official position of the VCCA.

Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.5