Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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John_C Offline OP
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Greetings, I took the oil pan off my ”˜30 2-Door Coupe six cylinder last year, and am finally ready to put it back on. I see out of all the bolts, there is one that is longer than the rest. I’m assuming it passes through the block and secures something, but am not sure.

Can someone let me know the correct location to install that longer pan bolt?

Thanks in advance.

John C.


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The longer bolt is for the oil pressure line bracket. The bracket attaches on the top of the engine block flange, driver's side by the exhaust pipe.

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John_C Offline OP
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Great! That’s what I needed!

Thank you!


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John_C Offline OP
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Also, if I’m using a torque wrench, what setting would you recommend?


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There were no torque specs. for the pan bolts back then. If you want to torque the pan bolts, determine what grade bolt that you are going to use and the size and then you can look up the torque specs. for that particular bolt on the Internet.

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Originally Posted by Junkyard Dog
The longer bolt is for the oil pressure line bracket. The bracket attaches on the top of the engine block flange, driver's side by the exhaust pipe.

here is the long bolt on my 1929 holding mentions oil line

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John_C Offline OP
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That helps immensely.

Are there any tricks of the trade to install the gaskets? Is it typical to place gaskets on pan, then attach pan to engine? (Like most applications) I noticed today on the front and rear of the block the channels for the cork gaskets. Is it difficult to get things lined up properly?

Thank you!


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Yes there are tricks, if it is like the 1929, 2 corks for ends, then 1 long for each side. sides are not the same, hole pattern is different.

I proceeded as follows:

1-Cleaned Gasket Mating Surfaces on Oil Pan and on Engine Block, Made sure no debris, film, oil, etc...
2-Applied a thin coat of Grease to the Engine block to assist in holding the Oil Pan Gasket in Place
3-Screwed in my homemade Alignment/ Guide Pins
4-Installed and seated the Side Oil Pan Gaskets, made sure they seated properly against the Bearing Caps wear the End Cork Oil Pan Gaskets will seat against them
5-test fit and trim if required, End Cork Oil Pan Gaskets in the bearing Caps, mine were extra long, want them to fit in the groove nicely wihtout too much extra length.
6-Applied a Small Dab of Permatex 2 in the Corners where the End Cork Oil Pan Gaskets will seat
7-Installed the End Cork Oil Pan Gaskets in the bearing Caps, made sure they were seated and aligned correctly Gaskets Installed Rear, Gaskets Installed Front
8--double checked all Oil Pan Gaskets to ensure holes are lined up, seated properly
9-Slowly & carefully installed the oil pan using the guide pins...
Man they work great to keep the pan straight and in line, 1.00" is optimal length when installing Oil Pan while Engine is in Car
10-Inserted 2 screws to hold and position oil pan in place.
11-Installed Slotted Round head Machine Screws .625" long, with a Flat Washer against Oil Pan, gently hand tight to hold pan in place. Screwed in Place 1, Screwed in Place 2, Front bearing End Oil Pan,
12-assured everything was lined up and in their proper location
13-Tightened up all screws
14-Doubled checked and cleaned up !!

Oil Pan Installed

here is a post to read /scan through when i did my Replacing Oil Pan Gasket on a 1929... Thoughts

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John_C Offline OP
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I can’t tell you how helpful that is! If not for the VCCA forum, I’d be lost.

It my be my imagination, but it seems that no matter how many car shows I go to, I NEVER see any Chevys like mine. I see Model As, Model As, Model As... oh, and did I mention all the Model As I see? One A owner said he WISHED he had an early 30’s Chevy, but bought an A instead. Must be very widely available. Are our Chevys hard to find? Mine was handed down from my father, so I never had to go searching.

Have a great evening!


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No Problem, Model T & Model A are widely available as are the parts, shoot you can almost practically buy all the parts and build one. now on Chevrolet of that vintage totally different story, parts are harder to come buy, main components, body parts, etc are only available if someone is parting one out , usually making a rod and selling the unneeded parts.

and I agree 150% i would NOT be anywhere with my 1929 Restoration without this forum and ll the help and advice i have been given over the last 7+ years

Last edited by BearsFan315; 08/13/19 09:38 AM.

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John_C Offline OP
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How did you manage to keep the front and rear cork gaskets in place? I’ve had no luck whatsoever.


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I used Gasket Sealer to hold the cork in place then raised the pan to it. I also use some 1/4 X20 threaded stock about 2" long in two placed to guide the pan to the proper place, Push the pan up in place and start the round head screws.

Last edited by Back Roads; 09/22/19 01:46 PM. Reason: spelling

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Originally Posted by John_C
How did you manage to keep the front and rear cork gaskets in place? I’ve had no luck whatsoever.
once you shape them, via soaking and wrapping around coke can. then a small dab of permatex #2 in the corners against the 2 side gaskets, they will stay in place. done this a few times on the 1929 & 1930. make sure the cork gaskets are trimmed to fit nicely and NOT too long or too short. (all this in the the link on where i did mine) also my corks were rectangular NOT square, wide fits in nicely in the bearing cover grooves, thin side harder to stay in..


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