Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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#427999 07/04/19 02:41 PM
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 1
Grease Monkey
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Grease Monkey
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 1
I need some good advice regarding the electrical system on my '59 Impala, 348 motor, automatic, generator. Keep having so many problems with bad wires, really, ever since I bought the car 15 years ago. One problem after another. Have had mechanics with supposedly good reputations in antique cars look at - not much help at all. I think I should rewire the whole car. I'd like to keep the generator. I'll need a new ignition switch - hard to find. I have a bunch of questions. How should I proceed? New user to the site.

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Joined: May 2018
Posts: 265
Backyard Mechanic
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Backyard Mechanic
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 265
Not sure how extensive a rewiring job on a 59 would be but if you've got bad wiring, it's definitely worth the trouble to rewire or fix it. I just tore out all the old wiring on my '41 Special Deluxe and there were a lot more bare spots/fire hazards in the wiring than I could see or would have thought. I'm glad I got it all out and replaced.

The only problem is, you may have to tear out carpet, headliners, etc. to get all the wiring out and replaced. It's an intimidating job that may lead to even more work but it can be done.

If you can find a complete wiring harness for the '59, that should help. I laid my new harness out and traced the old based on the new and realized it was far less complicated than I had imagined.

Or, have you checked for grounding issues? A bad ground can cause all kinds of problems that don't seem to be related. After replacing my wiring and installing turn signals, I had a puzzling problem where the left turn signal would cause both front parking lights to flash like hazard lights. A right turn signal with the parking lights on would turn the left parking light off. Finally figured out it was simply a bad ground on the front left parking light.


Why do I spend more time under my car than in the driver's seat?
Joined: Oct 2011
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Backyard Mechanic
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Backyard Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2011
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No matter what you do with what you have, you are still left with a harness that is 60 years old. Chances are that you will find places where the insulation has cracked or disappeared simply from age. Places where the wiring is near heat sources (e.g. exhaust lines, engine block) will likely be so brittle it will break when you touch it. I would recommend you bite the bullet and purchase a complete new harness for your car from a reputable source. If you go back through previous postings on this site you'll find some names recommended by other members who were experiencing the same problems. Rhode Island Co. and Y&Z's Wiring are two that come to mind, but I'm sure there are others. Good luck!! Oh, if you don't have patience - lots and lots of it, you'll have to find a good source for that before you start...and I can't help you with that!!

Joined: Dec 2016
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Oil Can Mechanic
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Oil Can Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2016
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What sort of problems have you had? Are the wires physically damaged? Is it a hacked up mess with crimps and splices everywhere?

I agree with BJSoder. (and kaygee who replied while i was typing this). If it is really bad it's gotta go.

On the other hand, most goofy electrical problems that defy fixing are grounds, and that is easier to fix. If something, like a light, is ungrounded, the electricity will try to "find" a ground through something else that is supposed to be grounded, usually at the same spot. For instance a dual-filament taillight will bleed current from the signals or brake lights into the taillight circuit, and vice versa.

Rhode Island WIring, and YnZ make wiring harness for old cloth wired prewar cars like mine, and probably have stuff for newer cars with PVC wiring like yours. I would call and ask.

http://www.riwire.com/

https://www.ynzyesterdaysparts.com/

Painless Wiring, and a couple of others make kits to rewire any car to a system much like the wiring in a musclecar-era American car. This costs less, but is universal fit. It is appropriate for highly modified cars, but I wouldn't do it to something that is close to stock. There is just no substitute for parts that fit right, and wires that don't need splices.

One hint, Chevrolet has, on some occasions, crimped steel bulb sockets into an aluminum reflector, and the ground fails where the two metals touch. It looks ok, but sometimes it isn't. On a car that will not be shown competitively you can solder a ground wire directly to the steel socket, and run it over to a screw on the body.

Welcome to the forum! Ask all the questions you want. There is an amazing body of knowledge here.

Last edited by bloo; 07/04/19 04:57 PM.
Joined: Dec 2001
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Likes: 3
ChatMaster - 2,000
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ChatMaster - 2,000
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,142
Likes: 3
Welcome aboard,

The wiring on these cars is simple. The harness's for your 59 are reproduced and are a dead match! It is plug and play, and looks bone stock! Call Passenger Car Supply (NJ) (856) 467 7966. Painless wiring is more like a pain in the *ss wiring and looks home made, the other two recommendations are for older cars.
I have his harness's in two of my cars, and both have earned the highest awards a car can receive in both the VCCA and The AACA


John



1954 Belair Sport Coupe
1960 2 door Impala Hardtop 348/340HP 4spd
1962 2 door Impala Hardtop 409/409 4spd
1962 2 Door Biscayne Sedan 327/250 Auto
1977 Monza Mirage 305 4 Speed
1988 Celebrity Wagon
2018 GMC Sierra 2500 HD Diesel

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