VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1937-1945 Best Welder for Restoration

Looking for recommendations for the best welder to get for restoring my '41. She's going to need rocker panels, floor panels and braces, and some work on each fender. Also, the floor of the trunk is cracked in a couple places from a rear-end collision unknown years ago.

I figure I'll be able to start on the body work next summer, but seeing as I haven't welding anything since high school (some 40 years ago) I figure I should get a welder this year and start practicing.

I looked online but then figured who better to ask than the people on this forum who have already or are in the process of restoring an old car.

TIG is the best type of welder for sheetmetal work, with MIG being a close second and a bit more affordable. TIG is more expensive but more controllable as you can work with thinner metal and turn it way down to reduce warpage. I haven't used enough of either to tell the difference or be really good with either. Prices vary, used is always a good option and many people have decent luck with bare bones Harbour Freight or other box store brands and there are lots of reviews.

It would be nice to find someone local and try some of each as your hands may work better with one than the other.

Eastwood has several decent videos on bodymetal welding to showcase both their MIG and TIG welders. These are instructional how-to videos so worth having a look at. Lots of videos on youtube for doing patch panels, etc so you can watch the different types of welders at work.

I suggest taking an 'Intro to Welding' class at your local Junior College. You'll get good technical info (and practice) with a variety of welding techniques and machines. Yes, TIG is more versatile, but harder to master than MIG.

Then you can make an informed decision on what works best for you.

Cheers, Dean

TIG is definitely far superior to MIG but most work can be done with MIG. They sell a common MIG wire with a small diameter, I think it is .023. I used it when working on my earlier 38 project. I discovered late that it is a bit hard and brittle. If I were doing it again, I would use a softer wire which is available.

Watched a lot of videos on patch panels, etc. and am thinking of getting a Lincoln Electric K2185-1 Handy MIG welder. Price is right and, really, this car is probably the only thing I will ever use the welder for. Figuring to use flux core wire.

Opinions? Like, "OMG, no!" or "Sure, ought to work fine."

I would contend that the best method for welding thin sheet metal is using an oxy-acetylene torch--it renders a "soft" weld that can be planished (unlike a MIG weld). Problem with this method is that it takes a lot of practice to master it. If you choose to go this route, I would strongly suggest checking out the Cobra/Henrob torch; it requires only 4 lbs. of acetylene and a similar amount of oxygen; it has multiple tips that enable you to work on many gauges of sheet metal. I have been able to do some very fine welding with my torch, even repairing/welding grilles and grille bars. The torch also comes in handy for cutting metal of most any thickness.

MIG is much easier to master. If you go this route, I would strongly recommend the Hobart Handler--you can get a 140 that runs on 110, or a larger one that runs on 220. DO NOT buy a cheap knock-off at Harbor Freight or similar (stick with Hobart or Lincoln). When I first took up welding, I made the mistake of buying a cheap machine and I had a heck of a time with it--kept blowing holes and making a mess; then I finally bit the bullet, paid a few more bucks, and got a Hobart Handler, and miraculously I could suddenly weld!! I would NOT recommend using flux core--you need to use solid .023 wire for most sheet metal, with shielding gas; I don't think you will be able to do delicate work very successfully with flux core--at least that has been my experience.

I've heard good things about TIG, but I don't have any experience in that method (or a TIG welder).

I've welded in many replacement panels and done a lot of repair work with both oxy-acetylene and MIG with a lot of success. Like anything else, several hours of concentrated practice will pay huge dividends when it comes to the real thing. You can do this--it just takes some patience and practice.

Good luck!

Jim

I have not used Tig but have watched a few times and looks to be a good system for sheet metal (less heat warpage). I mainly use Gasless Mig but it is a bit hot therefore blows hole very easy and gas Mig can turn down lower but the gas can blow the weld away if you are not careful. Oxy acetylene is often a nicer weld (sometimes without adding any metal) but there is a lot of heat warpage when not practiced at controlling it. The old stick welder will be of no use on sheetmetal.
As others have said pick a welder a practice using it in all positions (verticle, horizontal and overhead).
Tony

Watched at least half a dozen videos on MIG welding with flux core and it looks like something I can reasonably do with some good practice. Just found out my oldest brother has a MIG welder that does flux core so I'm going to borrow his rather than buy a new one. I plan on getting a lot of practice in with it before beginning the body work.

You might be able to add shielding gas to your brother's welder. It produces a cleaner weld than flux and all you need is the bottle and a regulator which do show up used or Harbour Freight might sell. You'll also need some solid wire.

From what you stated were your needed repairs I'd recommend a mig with the shielding gas option since a tig and gas welds can be planished it would be a superior repair but with the areas you mentioned you won't have access to the back which is needed to planish.