VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - GENERAL Mechanical - Engine, Trans, etc 33 Chevy rebuild and starting

Just had a 33 motor rebuilt but I can not get it started. I have a rebuilt original fuel pump that runs off the cam but it is useless. Have tried a six volt fuel pump, primed the plugs, poured gas in the carb. All to no avail.
She will catch, backfire through the carb, but then die. I have checked the timing and the firing order and all is correct. Even tried towing it off to see if she would hit. She does for a little bit but then dies. Any ideas wopuld be appreciated. Also, on the hedalight wiring, I have a diagram but it doesn't show the color codes for the wires. Does anyone know the correct wiring for the big headlights?

Are you sure that you don't have the timing 180 deg. off? It can be easy to do. Done it myself a few times. If timing is right and you have good strong spark then it should run for a short time with the gas poured into the carb.

Don't understand why the mechanical pump does not operate as they are very reliable if put together correctly. Filling the float bowl on the carb will run the engine for a couple of minutes even if the pump does not work.

I use a VOM to sort out the wires. A test light will also identify which wire is which.

The timing was supposedly set by the engine builder. I have the info on how it is set and according to the small turn dial on the plug side of the engine it appears to be set correctly at a few nothches jst below zero. Me being new to this, how do I go about setting the timing? Is it base on number one cylinder being at TDC? Please let me know. I've done many old Fords but this one has me stumped.

The dial under the distributor is just for fine tuning the timing after it has been properly adjusted-like with a timing light.Of course it must be running to do this.

Bring #1 piston up to the top.The valves on #1 cylinder must both be closed-(valve stems all the way up).Timing mark on flywheel should be seen on flywheel - through hole in fly wheel housing.Turn distributor so rotor is pointing towards the #1 spark plug wire location in dist. cap.This should bring you close-a little moving (rotating by loosening screw clamp underneath)of the dist. to where the engine runs smooth etc. will have you close- should be reset with timing light.

All of this stuff MUST come together at the same time, #1 piston on TDC, both valves of #1 completely closed. timing mark in window of flywheel, then rotor pointing to #1 sparkplug wire socket.

OK so what if these conditions exist BUT the rotor points way off somewhere else?

Try moving the sparkplug wires around in fireing order so that #1 wire is next to rotor contact. That may keep you from having to pull the distributor back out.

I like for the distributor to be engaged with the cam when these conditions are right and have the rotor pointing straight away from the engine, then I put #1 plug wire next to the rotor and plug the other wires in the correct fireing order, matching the rotation direction of the rotor.

Please remember that the #1 piston can be on TDC and the timing mark on the flywheel be right on and the valves not completly closed since the cam and distributor rotor makes one complete revolution while the flywheel makes two revolutions...... Just like a F.o.r.d or even a Whippet!
I wondered why F.o.r.d. was so considerate and put a timing bolt in the gear housing on a Model "A", untill I noticed that observeing the valves for TDC was very hard to do in a Non-valve in head engine...DUUUHH!

An easy way to check # 1 position is remove #1 spark plug and turn engine by hand until pressure can b felt with be felt with your finger over the plug hole. Then align the timing marks. No need to remove valve rocker cover.