Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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#427229 06/17/19 11:57 AM
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Rog40 Offline OP
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I'm experiencing absolute failure trying to install a seal in a '50 216. Seems the seal is too thick and protrudes from the groove too much to seat the crank in the bearing. I've oiled and stretched it and packed it with a roller, then tapped it in with a thin- round end wood paddle. It still holds the crank and cap way out of position. The rope was 1/2" diameter out of the package and the rear groove in the cap is 1/4". Just does not make sense. The package it came in did not even have a name on it, but it came in a Felpro complete engine gasket set.
Anyone know what might be going on? Thanks, Roger

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I don't think the Fel-Pro gasket has the best of reputation. I would get one from someone that has the "Best Gasket " brand.


Steve D
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I may have a original GM rear main still in the package. Will look tomorrow. I have been told that they are the best.
Will check back with you tomorrow if you are interested.

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Rog40 Offline OP
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I got a new seal from O'Reilly's. It's a Felpro but it fits. So I went ahead and installed. Thanks, Roger

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Not to hijack this thread, but I'm replacing the seal in my '41 (216 engine) and am wondering. Before I remove it, do I have to support the crankshaft?

Don't want to remove it from under the car and then have the crankshaft suddenly fall. That would be very annoying.


Why do I spend more time under my car than in the driver's seat?
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Check page 149 of the 1941 shop manual.

The key point that it is tricky replacing the upper half with the crank in the block.

Do some searches in this forum and you will see lots of posts about tricks and tips to fix the upper half with the crank in the block. The reality is that there is no guarantee of success. It might fix the leak and it might not.

You might want to start a new post after yo read through the search results.


Rusty

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Yep, checked the manual first, and did a search on "rear seal" and this was the most relevant thread that popped up. Except, I couldn't find anything in either the manual or the posts about possibly having to support the crankshaft when replacing the lower seal. The manual does say to remove the engine to replace the top half of the seal but I've read some threads with tips about replacing that one. Though, I'm not sure if I want to tackle the top half of the seal.

So I don't have to support the crank?


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If you do not remove the main bearing caps then no you will not have to support the crank. However loosening the caps will make replacing the top half easier. Your call..


Steve D
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Thanks! Was just reading about loosening the caps on the Stovebolt forum.

Still not sure about tackling the upper seal; but then, I wasn't sure about tackling this entire project a little more than a year ago.


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If you only remove the 1 cap and loosen the rest the crank wont fall out but if the transmission is still attached the crank wont drop far anyway.
Tony


1938 1/2 ton Hope to drive it before I retire

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