Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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#426346 05/31/19 01:16 PM
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Grease Monkey
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I'm needing to seal the fabric top on my 1932 Sedan. Material is old, probably original, has some cracks, and is flaking in some tiny spots near the edges, I'm looking to preserve the HPOCF character of the vehicle, so want to seal the fabric with a flat black coating if possible. A gloss finish would not match my weathered original paint. The edge trim is good, and solid. I resealed it with flat black RTV gasket maker. Roof still leaks when it rains. Any suggestions?

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Other than, Don't drive in the rain, I have nothing. LOL!

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Can you post some pictures of the worst areas? This might give some of us some ideas once we see the material...


1938 Canadian Pontiac Business Coupe (aka a 1938 Chevy Coupe with Pontiac shaped front sheet metal - almost all Chevy!)
1975 4-speed L82 Vette
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What about that spray on waterseal product, Flex Seal? It has a rubberized texture and comes in clear, black and white I believe. I have used it to seal some cracks in a more modern vinyl convertible top. Also you can use Formula 303 for cloth and if you can get to the underside, spray a coating. It dries clear and does help with waterproofing.

Last edited by Cargirl; 06/12/19 09:57 PM. Reason: add more
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I once used the black roof sealer for houses on a very old fabric top of a '30 Sedan. It's available at Lowe's / Home Depot and comes in a one gallon bucket. the stuff is intended for resealing flat roofs on houses. It's basically a tar-like compound, thick and just barely brushable. It dries to a flat black without noticeable brush marks. Not exactly your traditional solution, but it worked like a champ. Here's a link to the stuff:

Lowe's Roof Sealer

All the Best, Chip


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Lowes also has a product by "Henry" called Wet Patch in a tube which works well and is easy to apply.


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I can picture using some kind of black urethane product. Check with some bodyshop supply stores preferrably the non retail ones that deal with shops.
The products I am picturing are used when a shop rebuilds a large electrical motor. They coat the windings and fabric with either a clear or black urethane product that stands up to heat and chemicals. It would need a few coats. I can't picture where you would buy it but suspect 3M makes some. Look beyond retail solution and maybe visit places that rebuild large electrical motors.


1938 Canadian Pontiac Business Coupe (aka a 1938 Chevy Coupe with Pontiac shaped front sheet metal - almost all Chevy!)
1975 4-speed L82 Vette
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I replaced some windshields in the 70s and 80s that were installed with a black butyl or urethane caulking. It was thick enough you could make a good bead of it and set the glass into it and it became the seal and mechanical fastener. It stayed pliable and lasted for decades.
It was still thin enough that it could be brushed on. It was flat black and once you had some you could likely thin it a bit as well with xylene or lacquer thinner (read the spec sheet). It would be waterproof and very durable if it soaked into the fibers. It would make a permanent repair I think.


1938 Canadian Pontiac Business Coupe (aka a 1938 Chevy Coupe with Pontiac shaped front sheet metal - almost all Chevy!)
1975 4-speed L82 Vette
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Originally Posted by Cargirl
What about that spray on waterseal product, Flex Seal? It has a rubberized texture and comes in clear, black and white I believe. I have used it to seal some cracks in a more modern vinyl convertible top. Also you can use Formula 303 for cloth and if you can get to the underside, spray a coating. It dries clear and does help with waterproofing.

First post and very useful information. It’s what a forum is about, participating with “on subject” info. Way to go Cargirl.

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Originally Posted by canadiantim
I replaced some windshields in the 70s and 80s that were installed with a black butyl or urethane caulking. It was thick enough you could make a good bead of it and set the glass into it and it became the seal and mechanical fastener. It stayed pliable and lasted for decades.
It was still thin enough that it could be brushed on. It was flat black and once you had some you could likely thin it a bit as well with xylene or lacquer thinner (read the spec sheet). It would be waterproof and very durable if it soaked into the fibers. It would make a permanent repair I think.


I have used windshield urethane for exactly the issue described. It is thick and will need to be troweled some but will not only seal but adhere the roof especially if worked through the cracks down to the surface below. Word of advice, wear disposable gloves as once it gets on your skin, it will be there for a few weeks. Be careful not to get it on other things. Can be removed while wet and soft with body wash or prepsol.

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Expert advice can be found at Merrillville Auto Glass & Trim, 8606 Mississippi Street, Merrillville, IN, 46410 phone 219.769.1905 M-F 9-5 Hope this helps you.

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I recently waterproofed the top of my 1933 Sedan worn canvas roof with Liquid Rubber Colored Waterproof Sealant. Get in from the LR website or Amazon. One gallon containers comes in an assortment of colors. Black, Dark Grey, Med Gray, etc. A bit pricey $65-70 a gallon. Easy to apply with a roller or paint brush. It’s latex base. I applied 5 thin coats and used up about half the gallon. A great product.


Bernie Bullard

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