VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - GENERAL Mechanical - Engine, Trans, etc Stuck Engine

I have several engines that are stuck. Not all are equally stuck but one or two that I need to free up.

The one in my 50 convertible is badly stuck. I have tried squirting WD-40 and Blaster in the spark-plug holes and using a lot of torque on the crank at the forward end of the crankshaft, etc. The stinkin' thing just doesn't budge.

I have thought of taking the head off and trying to get it freed up from there. If that doesn't work then the rods off the crankshaft and the mains loose too. The engine ran really well when it was parked. So I am hesitant about disassembling it. But one has what ever it takes.

I just wonder if any of you have gone through the process of unsticking and engine and what has worked best for you and how far did you have to disassembly it.

Any hints or suggestions will be appreciated,

Thanks,

Charlie

I suggest ATF (automatic tranny fluid) in the spark plug holes and let it sit for at least a few days.

While that is going on, you might want to drop the oil pan and squirt oil on everything that moves. Especially, try to fill any oil reservoirs, cover cam lobes, oil around bearings, and squirt up to get the wrist pins. Oil the top end (rockers and push rods) too.

Again, let is soak for a while before trying to turn the engine over.

This is what I did with my '28 after it sat for 45 years.

Keep us posted, Dean

When an engine gest stuck it is usually the pistons sticking to the cylinder walls. My first try (after soaking) would be to remove the flywheel pan and use a long pry bar to try to turn the flywheel.
this is the place you can get the most leverage.
Last resort would be to remove the head, place a block of wood on top of a piston and hit with a medium sized hammer.

I agree that most likely it is pistons/rings stuck to the cylinder walls. I would pour quite a bit of ATF into each cylinder and let it sit quite a while (multiple days). The ATF will eventually flow through the ring gap to the ring below. Eventually it will get to all the rings and around the whole piston.

One advantage to trying to turn at the flywheel is that you can "rock" the crank both ways. I expect that the front crank bolt will come lose if you try to turn things backwards with that bolt.

You might want to remove the distributor and use a drill to drive the oil pump. That will at least get oil to the rocker arms and main bearings and fill the troughs.

I just went through this with a Model A. I ended up pulling he head and filling the cylinders with WD40 and letting them sit for a while. Once a day I would tap the pistons with a short 2 X 4 and hammer. After a while the lubricants started seeped down past the rings. I then took a small bottle jack and tied down on the head bolts and very slowly pushed down the pistons just a little at a time both direction until everything moved free. A week later I drove the car out of the garage on it own power. This car the head gasket had allowed water to seep into the cylinders over the space of 20 years of sitting. I don't see a way of post photos or I would show the how the job was done step by step.

I, too, think it is mostly the piston rings that are stuck.

I'll get ATF and try that. If that doesn't work then I'm going to pull the head off and use some Nobel product and a fuse or blasting cap. If that doesn't work then the pan is coming off and I'll lube everything real good. After being so lubed, I'll drag it down the road and see if I can burn the rubber off the tires..

I'm going to give the ATF a half hour, then the dynamite , then the lube to the 15 minutes. This thing is starting to get on my nerves. Ain't my fault it's stuck. It had oil in it.

Thanks for all the suggestions.

Gene, I was going to turn the flywheel but found no way to get a purchase for the big screwdriver or lever/pry-bar.

Thanks again,

Charlie

Someone I know says he has had good luck using brake fluid (dot3) in the cylinders and let it sit overnight.

Steve,

Heck fire! I try that too!

Thanks,

Charlie

Charlie,
You pry on the starter ring gear teeth. That's where you get the leverage. I don't know about Power Glide cars. There may not be access, if that's what you have.
Try the starter hole.

Mike

ATF and some carb cleaner. Let it sit for several days and keep adding more. The occasional smack on each piston with a 2x4 as above as well. It just takes time.

Like all other posters I think it is the rings that have stuck and probably only on 1 or maybe 2 cylinders those with the exhaust valves open. Turning in both directions from the flywheel starter teeth and the atf/acetone mix should get it moving. The worst part is if the is any rust depressions in the bore it is likely to cause problems later, dont ask how I know.
Tony