VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1933-1936 1934 Chevy Master Sedan project

Hello, I have recently picked up a 1934 Chevy Master Sedan That has not ran in thirty years. When I got it home I removed the Gas tank and fuel line do to old gas that was left in it. So before I tried turning it over I picked up a new battery, New plugs, new coil, Cleaned the points. Now that I finally have it turning over I can not get it to start or even attempt to. It is getting spark but will not start when I use starting fluid or poor gas into the carb. My next step is checking the timing and compression. If anyone has any tips or suggestions please share... I need all the help I can get. I am a new to classic cars and the 6V systems. I will be posting pics asap. Thanks!

I am a little surprised that it will not at least fire with gas added directly to the carburetor. Are you adding it while someone is cranking the engine? I use an clean, empty squeeze bottle with a spout like an old RainX bottle. If you are pouring it in and then going to the drivers seat to crank the car I expect that the gas is evaporating.

And be careful doing this! Keep your head and hands away from the carb. Have a heavy rag and a fire extinguisher nearby. You can sometimes get a flash back and small fire.

I agree that a compression check might tell you a lot. I also expect that the carburetor is completely plugged with evaporated gasoline.

Have you confirmed that the fuel pump is delivering gas to the carburetor? After that many years I expect the diaphragm is bad and the check valves are stuck.

I encourage you to remove the valve cover and make sure oil is getting to the rocker arms. Plus you can see if all the valves are opening and closing.

I would look at two things first:

1. With the distributor cap off and key in the on position touch a screwdriver across the open points to see if you get a spark. That proves you are getting a spark or not. (assuming the points are good. I have had clean used points that were bad. If you use a volt ohm meter plugged into to spark plug end of the wire [that goes to the spark plug] you should get a constant reading [the same] for each plug wire to each plug as you turn the engine over. If it varies then the points are bad.)

2. I use starting fluid. See if it tries to run on starting fluid. If it does not then you got a gas problem.

It will be one of two things only, spark or gas.

From wcstone84's post above:

First off thank you for the fast response! The fuel tank and lines are currently off of the car because they were to gummed up to reuse. I did check the number one cylinder plug and it is getting fire. I will check the rest as soon as possible. I will also pull the valve cover off to make sure that everything is operating correctly there. I am getting 6v to the new coil and all the way to the Distributor. I am pouring fuel into the carb while someone is cranking it over and it will not hit a lick. So I am thinking that the Carb is shot and needs to be cleaned and rebuilt. I will post an update as soon as I address some of these issues. I am a father of five so time and money are tight but I want to get this thing going so that I can make it to some shows with the kiddos! Thanks !

The carb is out of the equation if you are manually adding gas or starter fluid down the throat. Re-check the timing and measure the length of blue spark you are getting from the coil. Is there adequate compression?

To be honest I have not checked the compression. I will be doing that in the next few days. Thanks!

When I hear stories of pouring raw gas down the throat of a carburetor I think of my neighbor. He was up in the engine compartment of a truck and was pouring gas, when the engine backfired and caused him to spill the gas on himself. He received severe burns on his head, ears, all hair, lips, nose, full face, hands and arms. He was in the hospital for weeks. He must now wear gloves to do any work. SO, put in a small amount of gas, get out of the engine compartment, and then attempt to start. YOU CAN'T BE TOO CAREFUL!

I agree with Ray. I use a small (6 oz) plastic squirt bottle and give no more than two squirts, then replace the air filter before trying to start it.

Very valid points fellas! I try to use starting fluid most of the time and make sure to wear PPE. I like the Squirt bottle idea and will be trying that for sure ! As far as the air filter that is the one thing that I have noticed that is not with the car. The car is from up north and was brought down in the 70s. It has been kept in a climate controlled garage so there is almost zero rust. Found a cigar box in the compartment in the floor board containing the original check that bought the car new. I know there is a ton of things that this old car is going to teach me. I am excited just to have the opportunity.

If I put gas directly down the carburetor, I always put the air cleaner back on before I try to start the engine. It helps suppress the chance of fire if the engine backfires through the carb.

Ok sounds good. I will try to find an air cleaner for it.

please do not start it until you drain the crankcase and put in new oil.
even better is to drop the pan and clean it out along with the side valve cover.
bad things can happen in 30 years storage and you want nothing but fresh oil in the engine when it fires up.

Ok awesome! I will knock that out this weekend. Is there a place you guys recommend for a new oil pan and valve cover gasket?

The Filling Station in Lebanon, Oregon www.fillingstation.com

Thanks!

If you have not already done so, pour a little oil in each cylinder. They could be very dry and keeping you from having sufficient compression.

Mike

Yes sir that is the very first thing I did. I poured some in there then used the hand crank to turn the motor over. Thanks!

I had an experience with my 36 pickup. Sat in storage for a year and wouldn't start. I hadn't done a tune up for a long time so decided to replace points, cond., rotor, coil, plug wires, plugs, and battery. Still no start BUT HAD SPARK. This was a perfectly running vehicle a year before. Decided that replacing everything at one time was a bad idea so started to put original parts back on. Put the original coil back on and started immediately and runs great. Turns out the coil ( a tractor supply 6 v) had a resistor built in and cut the spark way down. I would try your old coil. I think the problem was the condenser from the beginning.