Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



Visit the new site at vcca.org

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Rate Thread
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 63
Shade Tree Mechanic
OP Offline
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 63
Hi Guys, I tried to research this topic on the site as it is quite popular question over the years. However, I couldn't quite find a definitive answer to the questions I have for my 35 Master with a 207.

I want it to run as cool as possible (just something that I have always liked in any car I have owned as I have had a few boil over and spew, leak, etc). I have seen recommendations on a 160 thermostat as ideal, however, I am thinking the engine will still run at least 160 without a thermostat, especially in warm weather, but the thermostat can only provide some amount of restriction. So, that is why I am thinking no thermostat will provide the most efficient cooling possible. In other words, a 160 thermostat does not necessarily mean the engine temp will be 160, but running no thermostat will ensure the engine is running as cool as possible in it's current condition.

I am not interested in rebuilding the engine at this time or taking apart to clean water passages and such... just trying to enjoy what I have and trying to see if this idea about no thermostat has any merit.

[list]
[*]Will not using a thermostat make the engine run as cool as possible?
[*]Are there any concerns associated with not running a thermostat other than the engine will take longer to warm up and the heater will be less effective?
[*]Is there a temperature range once at full operating temp (ie. less than 160) where the engine will be less efficient or potentially damaged by running too cool?
[*]I saw mention of a hot engine eliminating condensation in the oil. Does it take a certain temperature to do this and if so, what is that minimum temperature?

thanks much for your thoughts! :)

--John


John Myatt
Filling Station - Chevrolet & GMC Reproduction Parts


Filling Station


Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701
Likes: 141
ChatMaster - 25,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 25,000
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701
Likes: 141
Very few of those cars will run under 160 Deg. in warm weather. Originally a 140 Deg. was consideed a summer thermostat but they have not neen available for years. .
The thermostat will not make the engine run hotter or cooler other than bringing it up to 160 Deg. as a minimum Temp.
Condensation inside of the engine is not a problem in the summer unless you continually run the engine for five minutes and shut it off.

Last edited by Chev Nut; 05/05/19 11:58 AM.

Gene Schneider
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 63
Shade Tree Mechanic
OP Offline
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 63
Thanks for the feedback, Gene.


John Myatt
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 6,689
Likes: 21
ChatMaster - 6,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 6,000
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 6,689
Likes: 21
I agree with Gene.

The only thing is that I believe that a 160 degree thermostat is too cool for best lubrication. Also, without a thermostat it will take longer for your engine to warm up to whatever temperture it will run at eventually and during different driving conditions.

Best,

Charlie computer

Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,294
ChatMaster - 1,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 1,000
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,294
When I was racing, we found that when we made a spacer the size of a thermostat with a 11/16 hole in it, the car ran the coolest. We experimented with many hole sizes.

Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 63
Shade Tree Mechanic
OP Offline
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 63
Thanks for the feedback, fellas... I am running around 195 with the old time thermostat. I will do some experimenting and keep ya posted! :)
--John


John Myatt
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,511
Likes: 47
ChatMaster - 3,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 3,000
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,511
Likes: 47
Very interesting, chevy1937. What average temperature did the racing engines run, and at what average rpm?

Thanks, Dean


Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
old and ugly is beautiful!



Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 152
Shade Tree Mechanic
Offline
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 152
I have always been told that with no thermostat the water circulates to fast and doesn't have time to cool in the radiator.

Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 19,758
Likes: 64
ChatMaster - 15,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 15,000
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 19,758
Likes: 64
I had hope that the myth of water circulating too fast would have been dashed many years ago. It just doesn't happen even in modern cooling systems.


How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,894
ChatMaster - 1,500
Offline
ChatMaster - 1,500
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,894
In the case of an older style non computerized race engine it is possible to find a point where the thermal transfer is ideal as above with the restrictor. The big factor with a race engine is that it is operated the same predictable and reproducible way every, single time.

In the case of a street driven engine, it needs to adapt to a variety of conditions. When too cool it runs poor so you need a stat to provide faster warmup. Too hot is a problem so the stat opens. The stat is basically there to keep the temperature bouncing up and down somewhere in a middle range throughout a variety of driving conditions and outside temperatures.

It's an old wives tale that won't die about the coolant moving "too fast to cool". In fact the exact opposite is true and the faster the coolant moves, the greater the cooling system's efficiency.

For a good long read:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Cooling/


1938 Canadian Pontiac Business Coupe (aka a 1938 Chevy Coupe with Pontiac shaped front sheet metal - almost all Chevy!)
1975 4-speed L82 Vette
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 29,863
Tech Advisor
ChatMaster - 25,000
Offline
Tech Advisor
ChatMaster - 25,000
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 29,863
Quote
I had hope that the myth of water circulating too fast would have been dashed many years ago. It just doesn't happen even in modern cooling systems.

iagree

laugh wink beer2


The Mangy Old Mutt

"If It's Not Junk.....It's Not Treasure!"
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 6,149
Likes: 42
ChatMaster - 6,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 6,000
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 6,149
Likes: 42
Chipper and JYD in the modern system with less tubes in the radiator the faster the coolant flows in each tube. With the older copper radiators there was a lot more tubes to take the flow rate therefore a lower flow rate per tube. A thermostat restricts the flow for quicker warm up but even when fully open it is a restriction as most water pumps are capable of a higher flow rate than a thermostat or most radiators.
A lot of early cars will operate normally without a thermostat as in most cases they were only a option.
Tony


1938 1/2 ton Hope to drive it before I retire
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,294
ChatMaster - 1,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 1,000
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,294
Originally Posted by Rustoholic
Very interesting, chevy1937. What average temperature did the racing engines run, and at what average rpm?

Thanks, Dean
I raced late models on asphalt. The small block dinod at 580 HP. With no fan it would run about 190. We tried to keep it under 8000.

Last edited by chevy1937; 05/06/19 06:39 AM. Reason: mistake.
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 6,689
Likes: 21
ChatMaster - 6,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 6,000
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 6,689
Likes: 21
Chipper and JD,

Back in the forties and fifitesit seems I remember talk about Ford V/8s running too cool owing to too open flow through the radiator.

I don't know wheather that is myth or not. I believe I've seen thermostats positioned in the top hoses but most just ran without a thermostat.

I do know that the period Ford radiators used flues with more volume capacity, it seemed, than other cars. Rodded a heap of them. Removal replacement of top and bottom tanks were much easier than GM cars.

Best.

Charlie computer

Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 4,024
Likes: 99
ChatMaster - 4,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 4,000
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 4,024
Likes: 99
The most important point to remember is that we are talking about a cooling system. The thermostat is just one component.

Changing one piece may or may nor change the overall performance of the system. For example, if the cooling passages in the engine and head are partially blocked changing the temperature rating of the thermostat or eliminating it will probably not eliminate an overheating problem. A larger radiator will not make a difference if the current one has enough heat transfer capacity.

My preference is to run an engine at a higher safe operating temperature rather than lower. That is better for combustion and lubrication and actually helps heat transfer because the coolant is at an even higher temperature than the air flowing through the radiator.


Rusty

VCCA #44680
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 19,758
Likes: 64
ChatMaster - 15,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 15,000
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 19,758
Likes: 64
iagree

Cooling systems, like engines, transmissions, etc. depend on numerous parts all operating properly to do the job they were designed to do.


How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701
Likes: 141
ChatMaster - 25,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 25,000
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701
Likes: 141
I will stand by my original post.
In the last almost 50 years I and my regional members have toured around the US in hot weather, often over 100 degrees .
Cars were mainly 1934-1940 models. Thermostat or not all cars had the same results and some with 160 Deg thermostats and some with no thermostats. Yes, the engines would run hot but seldom a real boil over problem save for a few ocassions of plugged up radiator cores. We always ran a 50/50 antifreeze solution which raises the boiling point slightly.


Gene Schneider

Link Copied to Clipboard
 

Notice: Any comments posted herein do not necessarily reflect the official position of the VCCA.

Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.5