VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1933-1936 1936 207 thermostat recomendation

I've never owned an engine this old before, so these questions may seem simple, but would my car have used a thermostat?? When I swapped out the rad, there was no thermostat in the housing. Is one necessary?? What temp would be recommended...180 or 195? I have no experiance with systems open to the atmosphere, so any overall thoughts would be appreciated...
I thank you,

KenO

How's the project going Ken?
Parts/service manuals can verify but I'm 99% certain this would have had a thermostat. They do run better and more consistent with a stat. The consensus is that a 160 degree is best and readily available almost everywhere like Napa. The big key to an open system is to NOT overfill the radiator. When cold, you should just see the coolant at the top of the fins. It needs room to expand or will puke coolant when hot.

I am using a 90 degree one due to my location in Mississippi. It goes under the neck of the metal part that the straight "upper" hose goes onto. Located on the block. There are two bolts that hold that attachment on. The lower the temperature of the thermostat the sooner it opens up and water flows through the system. These old type engines tend to "run hot". Another reason to use a cooler thermostat is "Open type systems" are under no pressure as it has a relief tube that passes down the front of the radiator. The reason the tube passes on the front (bumper side) of the radiator is the fan draws so much air at high speed that it will suck the line into the fan. I bought a new replacement radiator and they put a rubber hose on the back side (fan side). It sucked the hose out of the clips and into the fan. I solved the problem by placing a copper tube. (It cost me a new water pump and fan blade.) Remember that this type of system needs "head space" (no water) in the top of the radiator to allow the hot water to expand. If this type of system is to full of water it will overflow out of the relief tube. This usually happens driving down the road but may also happen after driving and parking the car. Keeping an eye on the temperature gauge is one of the standard things one does while driving this type of vehicle. Most of the times you will not have to add water; but in the 1930's checking/adding water was just part of getting gas at the station along with checking the oil. (I am using a 50/50 mix of anti-freeze. This helps extend the cooling/heating of the water boil over point during hot days. Also, driving in cold weather, it is a must, just like in today's cars.) These cars are fun to drive but you must also drive like in the 1930's. Driving without one can be done but will cause the car to overheat sooner.

When new the 1936 came with a 141 deg. thermostat. In the winter for more heat a 160 deg. could be instaled IF SO CALLED PERMENTANT ANTIFREEZE WAS USED (to raise the boiing point) If alcohol was used 160 deg woud be too high as alcohol lowers the boiling point.
The best thermostat to use today for all around use in a car of that age is a 160 deg. That is what I have used in my cars for years and seems to be the happy medium. I also use a 50/50 shot of antifreeze.
The 1936 thermosat was used up into the 1980's so are readilly available.

I also run 160 deg, thermostats in my old Chevrolets.

Thanks for this information...thats a lot lower temperature than I would have thought, but it makes sense when you think about it. Off to the parts store......!

My car runs a 180 degree thermostat with no trouble. I like to keep the temps up to chase off condensates.

I also use 160's. 180 degree does not make it run hotter.

A 180 stat will make it run hotter than a 160 if all cooling conditions are the same (cooling system being 100% and outdoor air cool enough to cool to maximum efficiency). A thermostat simply maintains the MINIMUM temp of the coolant. If cooling system is healthy and you run a 160, the coolant will stay around 160 max. If a 180 stat is run and the cooling system is healthy, the coolant will stay around 180 max.

A 160 stat gives a bit of a margin for temps to peak during a hill climb, parade, etc, especially if the cooling system is not quite 100%. Even with a 160 stat, if you run your car for a good half hour or more each time it is used, the oil temp should touch on 180F which will get rid of any condensation in the oil.

If the 180 works well for you and you watch the gauge, no biggie as all stats have a pretty large range of tolerance being a mechanical device, so you could be +/- 15% or more variance anyway.

With a 180 Deg you must run a ethelene glycol anti freeze with a 50/50 mix to get the boiling point up another seveal degress above 212 at seal level plus a pressure cap on later models. Most will run at 180 Deg. in warm weather ether way.

Not true.

So a 180 degree makes an Engine run hotter than a 160 degree?

Under normal conditions the 160 Deg is fully open at 160 Deg and the 180 at 180 Deg and that would be the running temp.
If conditions are exreme it will run above 160 or 180 but in cold weather it should come up to what ever the thermostat is rated at.

I wouldn't run a 180 on an old car because it is getting clode to the boiling point and more likely to burp when engine is shut of. Also at higher altitudes the boiling point is lower.

Yes. If a 180 degree thermostat didn't make the engine run any hotter than a 160 thermostat then thermostats would not be rated in different degrees. In other words, a "universal degree" thermostat could be used for all applications.

As Gene mentioned, a 180 degree thermostat is too hot for a 1930's vehicle.

When I got mt 1934 (in 1970) it had an adjustable thermostat inserted into the upper radiator hose. (not GM)

I have one of the adjustable thermostats. It came in my 37. works good, I tested it in water on the stove.

Engines run a little more efficient the higher the temperature. The upper temperature limit for cooling systems is the design, condition of the parts and materials of construction. I generally do not run thermostats in my 30s and earlier Chevys as the benefit is small. Do run antifreeze more for corrosion protection as we don't get much freezing temperature in Southern Texas. Have to pay strict attention to air being drawn into the coolant and causing foam.

I agree. I don't use a thermostat in my early 1930's Chevrolets either.

I've just finished the installation of my 160 degree thermostat and things seem to be working fine. My engine gets up to temp quickly and stays right at 163. Once I shut it off, I do get high pressure steam thru the expansion tube for about a minute, but there is no burping or the dreadful "green pee" in my driveway. Could not be happier. Thanks for all your input!