Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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Joined: Jan 2017
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Jonda1 Offline OP
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I've got the 33 Chevy all back together. Took it out for a quick drive and it all works perfect. I dropped the gas tank and fixed the fuel gauge sending unit and also installed a fuel filter and a six volt electric fuel pump at the tank. The float on the sending unit had fallen off inside the tank. I put that back together, fabricated a bracket for the electric fuel pump and installed an inline filter between the gas tank and the electric pump. I pumped 5 gallons at a time into the tank and check the gauge after each one and it looks as though the gauge is accurate. The car is almost entirely stock. It always had a vapor lock problem, so I'm hoping the next time it vapor locks on a hot day I can just hit the accessory switch for the electric fuel pump for a few seconds and that will take care of it.

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That's my plan. I have the pump sitting on the bench, need to get a filter.

Where did you mount the pump? I was kind of looking at one of the rumble seat area floor boards to mount it to, I could put it inside the right frame rail, also. I am going to double rubber mount it to keep the noise at a minimum, Haven't decided if I want a SPST toggle switch, or momentary push button. Probably do the toggle switch, someplace discrete, like under the seat.

Doug

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I am surprised you are having that much trouble vapor locking. I have never had my '33 coupe vapor lock.


Ed
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Jonda1 Offline OP
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Doug and Ed......It has only vapor locked when I turn the engine off on a hot day. I need to wait for about 15 minutes or so before it will start again. So far I have never stalled the engine in the middle of an intersection. I think this electric pump will take care of that.

Doug… I mounted the fuel filter and pump right above the gas tank outlet on the frame of the car. I made a small bracket and mounted it to the frame above and near the forward part of the tank. I used a rubber fuel hose from the tank to the fuel filter and then from the fuel filter to the electric pump and then from the pump outlet straight to the steel fuel line. I ran the electric wire in the frame rail where all of the other wires run up to the front then up the steering column through the toe board inside under the floor mat then up under the dash. Then through an inline 15 amp fuse to the accessory switch in the dash. My accessory switch wasn't being used for anything else. I will only use the electric pump during a vapor lock or if my mechanical fails. Then only to get it home.

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Last edited by Jonda1; 03/27/19 09:47 PM.
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It looks like it should work great. Glad you didn't have it stall while driving! That should solve your problem on restarting.


Ed
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My car gets cranky when its around 100F, and esp going up hills when it is hot, and VL is the only think i can come up with, as fuel flow from the tank seems good when claening teh filter,and pump is newly rebuilt. There is no guarantee that something isn't intermittently partially clogging the inlet in the tank, though, which can exacerbate VL.
Doug

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To address the issue of junk in the gas tank, I put a fairly strong magnet on the bottom of the gas tank a few inches away from the outlet. The theory is that metallic crud will be attracted to the magnet and stay out of the fuel line.

That's my story and I'm sticking to it!

;-) Dean


Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
old and ugly is beautiful!



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The magnet idea is good for steel but for other gunk it doesnt work so well.
Tony


1938 1/2 ton Hope to drive it before I retire

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