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I finally purchased a electro lock for a 30 3 window coupe but it doesn’t have a key.Is there a way to get it apart without destroying it?

Nope, you need to have a key to remove the lock cylinder from the head of the electrolock. If the lock cylinder is not frozen, and if you can find a real "locksmith", he can possibly impression a key for the lock cylinder and remove the lock cylinder for you. If, however, he gets out a power drill to remove the lock cylinder, grab the electrolock and run!

Dave,
You could probably trade your electrolock to the Mutt or to Chipper, toward a reconditioned one with a key.

Mike

Before you do anything extreme just try any key. A lot of those are worn enough that any key that'll fit the slot will turn it.

Before trying any key, check first to make sure that the lock cylinder is not frozen. Both the cylinder housing and the plug (the part where the key goes) are made out of pot metal so if the lock is badly frozen (these lock cylinders are famous for being seized), then no key is going to turn the plug in the lock cylinder. If you determine that the plug will move a little within the lock cylinder (you can use a small flat blade screwdriver inserted inside of the plug to see if the plug will move), then trying many different keys to see if one will work in the lock cylinder is a good idea.

Do as the dog wrote. If lock cylinder is not frozen and you don't have a key or a good locksmith you can send it to me. I have "saved" several electrolocks. Have a bunch that are frozen as well.

Answer to Original question is "almost" can you take the electro-lock apart with out the key and not totally destroy it? if it is the same as a 29 key lock. I had this conversation with a Gentleman several years ago, I wish there was a way to easily look up my posts if there is a way I am missing it. This fellow described how to do it. To get the tumbler assembly out I used a 1/4" drill bit and removed the 4 spot welds from the band you should see on the casing. Do not go all the way through! Slide the band toward the electrical screws, this will expose 2 slots, one with a round button the other with a rectangular tab. Depress both of these and shove the tumbler assembly out. Best to take that part to a good locksmith, there is a key code embossed on this piece. If you feel the need to take this piece apart, then press in the round button and work it out with the spring. Now insert a thin tool where the key goes and all the way in. Now with a strong thin tool slide it into the slot behind where the button was to push on the tumblers down, when all clear of the slot rotate and pull assembly out. That thin tool will keep springs an pieces from flying all over the place.. If you need to totally disassemble. The cap the cable is attached to unscrews from the lock body. When a new key is made and all is good, spot weld the band back on and reassemble. Or send it to Chipper
Kind of a long winded post. hope it helps

Grasspilot - If you click on your Profile, you can then click on "My Posts" and it's lists all your posts on record...

Thanks Canadiantim.."my posts" is not listed, BUT I see a cartoon speech bubble there. Thanks

For future reference
https://www.flickr.com/photos/30558245@N05/3326211245/in/dateposted-public/
A picture of mostly disassembled electro lock read the post as that is the description
hope the link works

I have about 40 years experience working on electrolocks. That includes rebuilding or repairing more than 50 of them. I don't have an accurate number as only recently have I kept a log.

So readers may understand a little more about electrolocks. If the lock and intermediate cylinders are frozen together moving the spot welded ring and pushing on the rectangular pin will either not release the lock parts or will break the tab off the back of the lock cylinder. Once that tab is broken off the lock is basically junk. Yes you will be able to depress the round button but without moving the rectangular pin the two internal lock cylinder will only move a little in and out before something breaks. Even if you can remove the two internal die-cast parts they are junk if they can't be separated.

If the internal cylinders will move independently and there is no key, the best option is to "pick" the lock to reveal the key code and then have a key made. These locks are relatively easy to "pick". There is absolutely no reason to drill any part of the lock. It will do more damage than necessary. It is also relatively easy to "profile" the lock and make a key. There are very few modern locksmiths that can "profile" the lock or "pick" it and then make a key.

In the last 30 years I have restored 200+ electrolocks for customers and I totally agree with everything that Chipper said above.

I have a question about the Electrolock.
I understand from comments from Bill Barker in 2012 that the lock on 1929-32 Chevs was made difficult to foil car thieves. Were thieves really trying to steal points in those days?
Jim G

Nope. Thieves were stealing cars, not points, so the Electrolock made it difficult for the thieves to steal 1929-32 Chevrolets.

Hi Chipper; How much would it cost me to have my 34 db ecltroloc fixed. Or can I buy one from you. Thanks Jay

I have never worked on a '34 electrolock. They have different lock cylinders than the early '33 and earlier. I don't have a large stock of parts so no guarantees I can help. I can check it out and let you know but can't quote a cost until I know what is required. If you PM me I can give shipping information if you are interested.

I have a question, Is the "Electrolock" the ignition key and lock or is it the whole lock and cable and cap that goes on the ignition coil? What breaks on them? I don't think my coil is any good but don't know for sure as I am putting the engine back together and haven't tried to start it yet. I bought the car and it was switched to 12V. I am bringing it back to 6V.

You didn't mention the year of car in your question (the year always helps) but I assume that you have a later Electrolock than early 1933. Usually, on the later Electrolocks it is the internal wire that goes bad from age. The cloth covering deteriorates exposing the bare wire causing an internal short within the Electrolock cable.

JYD,
I have a 35 Standard Coach. As I stated before, I am assembling the car and haven't got to the point of starting the car yet. I will let you know when the time comes.

Thanks,
Pete V

Working on a 1932. Electrolock was removed from the car. I have no idea how or where it is supposed to go after going through the firewall. Some engine pics I have seen show it going to the distributor?

The electrolock armored cable goes through the firewall and attaches to the distributor. In 1932 a shield on the positive terminal on the starter kept the electrolock and spark cables from shorting out. 1931 used a rubber boot on the starter cable end and piece of fiber conduit on the spark cable.

The power from the ammeter goes to the electrlock then when on to the positive post on the coil. The negative post on the coil connects to the electrolock terminal furthest from the dash which is connected to the center wire in the armored cable. That connects to a stud on the distributor end, a cup, several insulators, washers, spring, nut and plate complete the assembly. The spring arm on the points is sandwiched between the nut and plate to provide power to the points. The condenser (that is screwed to the distributor assembly) wire connects through the slot in the cup to the stud between a lock and flat washer.

Yes it goes to the distributor. The order of attachment parts has been posted before so you may be able to locate it by doing a search. If you don't find it I suggest contacting one of the above experienced members.

if the 32 is like the 29 yes the electrolock goes to distributor :)

here is my topic about my reassembly 1929 Electrolock Reassmebly

Bearsfan - Checked it out - EXCELLENT!! Many thanks.

hopefully that helps and answers some questions