VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - GENERAL Trucks and Vans Throttle Cable

On my 46 Pickup the PO wrapped the throttle cable wire around the carb linkage instead of using the correct stop. Has anyone straightened a throttle or choke wire and how did you do it?

What or who does PO stand for?

Place the end in a vice and pull on the wire that slides inside the covering. Or place the bent part near the vice claw and use a broad nosed pliers to apply pressure, without ruing the outer cover, to re-bend straight. You may have to bend past straight to get it to remain straight when the pressure is released. Or bend in several directions. Re-test the sliding motion as you re-bend. When it slides free your done.

Previous Owner

Will give that a try. Thanks

The throttle cable on my '46 1/2 ton pick was/is not hooked up. Looking at the carb (Carter W-1) and a couple others that I have, the mounting clamp for the exterior cable tube is there, however I don't see any place the interior slide wire hooks up to the throttle linkage.
Am I overlooking something or am I possibly missing a part? On my Asian carb (1963 Toyota Land Cruiser) the throttle arm rather than being flat, has a 90 degree flat coming out the side with an elongated hole that the wire goes through with a stop on the end of the cable.

TwoDoor
I think you will find the throttle inner cable goes through the end of the rod for the foot control with a screw clamp below the rod. This holds the foot control rod from falling out while still allowing it the operate, when the cable is pulled it holds the rod higher caused a fast idle.
Tony

The 1/4" diameter throttle rod that runs vertically from the throttle bellcrank (mounted on the side of the block), up between the intake and exhaust manifolds has a 90 degree bend at the top that fits in the hole at the end of the carburetor throttle arm. There should be a 1/16 or 3/32 vertical hole near the end of this 90 degree bend. If your throttle cable was not connected, there's a good chance there is a cotter pin in that hole now to prevent the throttle rod from coming out of the throttle arm. If so, remove the cotter pin and, with the throttle rod inserted into the throttle arm, install a 1/4" flat washer over the end of the 90 degree bend, then extend the center wire of the hand throttle cable down from the cable clamp and through the hole in the 90 degree bend. Then install a cable stop on the wire below the 90 degree bend. Leave about 1/4" clearance between the cable stop and the bottom of the 90 degree bend to insure that the cable stop does not prevent the throttle from returning to the idle position. With the engine off, at the carburetor, manually operate your carburetor throttle arm from idle position to full open to verify that there is no binding on the manual throttle cable. Next, pull your manual throttle knob out an inch or so and verify that the throttle opens. Be sure to shove the knob back in before starting the engine. In practice, you seldom need more than a slight amount of hand throttle, as when warming up the engine or checking your generating system. I have used it briefly for a "poor man's cruise control" to rest my leg on a long road trip, but that is quite dangerous and not recommended. It'd be a good idea to throw a spare cotter key in your glovebox in the unlikely event your cable stop comes loose and falls off or you drop it into the gravel under the truck when working on the carburetor and can't find it.

Mark

Mark and Tony, thank you for the heads up. Your description of the mechanics is spot on.


Bill