Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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#418723 12/10/18 09:40 PM
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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On my 1929 coach, the brake pedal front and rear cross shafts are frozen in their bearing mounts. It appears that there are no provisions to lube
these bearing cups. Are they supposed to be dry. Any guidance here is much appreciated. 55637


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Oil Can Mechanic
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Oil Can Mechanic
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I had the same condition on my 29 coupe. Rusted and frozen. I removed the cross shaft assembly from the frame. As I remember I took a roll of sandpaper and cleaned the shafts on both sides of the bearings. I soaked everything with penetrating oil and using a plastic hammer and vise kept working the bearing assemblies until they moved enough to clean the shaft where the bearings had been. It took quite awhile to get the shafts smooth enough for the bearings to move freely. The bearings appear to be diecast and probably had swelled with age so that they were tight in the retaining plates and could not self align. I had to cut a couple of the rivets and spread the plates slightly to allow the bearings to self align (the bearings must be able to move freely or they will bind) I then welded the rivets to hold the spacing. Everything seems to move freely now and I will be sure to lubricate with 600w oil. I think they will hold up well with normal maintenance.

I suspect that the correct way to repair the cross shafts would be to cut the welds and remove the arms and replace the bearings. I am not sure if anyone makes these.

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Oil Can Mechanic
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Oil Can Mechanic
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This thread might do better in the 29-32 forum.

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ChatMaster - 15,000
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ChatMaster - 15,000
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I don't know or anyone making replacement bearings (called bushings by some). I have often thought about making some from nylon, or similar plastic bushing material. Making them in two halves would allow replacement without having to remove the end arms. They would require the rivets be removed from the retaining plates to separate them.


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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Gentlemen, Thank you for your input on my question for these brake shafts. I did use the method of drilling the top rivet out and slightly opening the plates a bit. Crocus cloth and cutting oil cleaned
up the shafts at the bearing surfaces to make this a useable unit for now. I agree that the two piece bushing idea would be ideal. The rivets would be easy to replace. Again, thank you for your input on this. One step closer to
getting it back on the road.

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At one point a similar bushing was available from the model A parts suppliers. They were brass in two styles split or not split. I never got far enough into it to see if the sizes were comparable from Ford to Chev. If you need these parts it might be worth some investigation. I think they were for the Bendix type front wheel brake shafts. As long as the shafts can move freely and do not have too much play they should be fine. Keep them oiled all the time and they should last a long time. At least once a year before touring season I crawl under the car and squirt 30 weight oil on ALL of the brake pivot points and bushings.

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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Good idea on the model A parts. I will follow up on that. As I recently purchased this car at auction, I have spent much time underneath it greasing,oiling and inspecting. These cross shafts were about the only problem if found. a regular maintenance schedule is scheduled. Thanks again for your help.

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Grease Monkey
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Grease Monkey
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I made bronze bushings on the lathe then split them with a fine blade on a 4 inch angle grinder. Replaced the rivets with locktited bolts. All seems to work OK but the rest of the vehicle is a work in progress.


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