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Joined: Apr 2016
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 108 |
Once again, I’m flying blind. I’m trying to correctly mount the radiator into my ”˜32 Confederate chassis. Does anyone know if there are any rubber mounting pads between the bottom of the radiator shell and the square tubing that mounts directly to the front cross member? The master parts price list notes some anti-squeak (part number 367423) and radiator screen rubber bumpers (part number 366828), but without illustrations I have no idea where those parts might go.
Was the radiator hard-bolted to the tubing? It seems like there should be some kind of pads to clear the strap u-bolt holding the square tubing in the very center of the cross member so that the bottom of the grille shell isn’t high centered
If there are any rubber pads, how thick are they?
I am concerned about this because any height difference here will affect hood alignment later.
Thanks. Tom
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Joined: Nov 2001
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Tech Advisor ChatMaster - 25,000
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Tech Advisor ChatMaster - 25,000
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The Mangy Old Mutt
"If It's Not Junk.....It's Not Treasure!"
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Joined: Jul 2005
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ChatMaster - 3,000
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I am pretty sure that there is a picture of the radiator mounting to the front crossmember in either the New features for 1932 chevrolets booklet or the engineering features booklet that show a rubber mounting piece between the two, Not at home at the moment, so will check when i get home.
JACK
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Joined: Nov 2001
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Tech Advisor ChatMaster - 25,000
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Tech Advisor ChatMaster - 25,000
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The Mangy Old Mutt
"If It's Not Junk.....It's Not Treasure!"
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Joined: Nov 2002
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ChatMaster - 7,000
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It not only affects hood alignment but also yhe fit of the engine hand crank. I found on my 32 there was a pad under the radiator that appeared to be of leather or canvas and rubber.
Steve D
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Joined: Nov 2001
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ChatMaster - 15,000
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A canvas fabric impregnated with an asphaltic material was used in multiple locations. It was primarily there to provide a flexible pad and eliminate squeaks and other noises.
How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!
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Joined: Nov 2014
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Oil Can Mechanic
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Oil Can Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2014
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Tom, This is a photo of the bottom of my '32 radiator as it looked when removed . It looks like a fender welting type material was wired along the bottom and some different material wedged around the 2 lower sides (piece hanging down on left) to dampen vibration, anti-chafe protection, etc. I never saw any rubber pads. As long at the crank hole lines up, like Steve said, you should be fine. ![[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]](https://i.postimg.cc/W42k0kLr/IMG-4057.jpg)
If it ain't broke…..fix it 'til it is.
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 71
Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 71 |
These Shim Cushions(2)measures 2 '' x2''x1 / 8 and are harder than rubber rather than strap. Also there is an other cushion between front fender center support and cross member 1-1 / 2x4x3 / 16
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Joined: Apr 2016
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2016
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Thanks guys! I have short roll of body mount webbing left over from a restoration of another make. I’ll start with that. I can see now how slotted shims might be added later to adjust height to get proper hood alignment.
I’ve purchased fabric-impregnated sheet rubber off e-Bay in several different thicknesses. It sure beats cutting up side walls of old tires to make shims.
I did notice that the crank hole in the grille was centered, but the hole in the bottom radiator tank is off by about a half inch.
Tom
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Joined: Sep 2014
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ChatMaster - 2,000
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Just installed the radiator and shell on my 32’ Olds chassis tonight. Like Hardagrounds radiator, the bolts are carriage bolts passing through the radiator and shell frame, then a small square 1/8-3/16”thick special washer on each bolt with a square hole in it goes on so any remaining square shoulder of the bolt is taken up and only the round threads are below the special washer. Then there are two 1/8” “C” shaped steel shims on each bolt along with a 1/8”+or- canvas reinforced rubber pad that contacts the frame cross member. Basically my Olds radiator is shimmed up 1/2” off the frame after the bolts are tightened and it also has a rubber canvas thin isolation padding.
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Page 55 of the 1932 passenger car engineering features also says that there is a rubber cushion between the fender support unit and the frame front cross member.
JACK
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Joined: Apr 2016
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
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An update on this discussion …- I may be slow, but if I keep gnawing away at something, I’ll be able to eventually get it.
The Passenger Car Engineering Features book that Jack mentioned here has been also noted in some other threads, so I purchased a copy. It is mostly hype for salesmen, but the text on page 55 has pointed me in the right direction for mounting the radiator.
It says, quote
ideal requirements are met by an entirely new method of mounting the front fenders, radiator and headlamps. A single fender support unit supports these parts at a neutral point in the center of the front frame cross member. This support is insulated from the frame by a rubber cushion and is held in place by two bolts spaced relatively close together at the center.
Unquote
The first thing I noticed was that my car was missing the crank support bracket and some previous owner had installed a home made u-bolt (See my start to this thread above. I called it a strap u-bolt. I know I must confuse some of you with my comments. I’m talking about things that shouldn’t be on the car.)
Secondly, a previous owner had installed longer carriage bolts in the lower radiator anchor strap and used big washers to cover the large round holes in the front crossmember, thus tying the radiator directly to the frame. I now realize that the large holes in the frame are to permit access to the nuts only, and the radiator is attached to the square support and not the frame.
It looks like I’ll have to experiment with thicknesses of rubber shims between the support and the lower radiator anchor strap. I Installed the radiator and the brace that goes across the back of the middle of the radiator interfered with the fan, so everything needs to go up some more.
Tom
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