I have the old springs out of the grey 41 and have a set of used covered ones to replace the old uncovered ones. I thought the covered ones I had were NOS but I noticed that they had eyes in the front leaf. So I surmise that they are used. The covers are full and in good shape. The art of the covered springs is much better than the old uncovered ones.
I have the new eyes and threaded rear pieces hammered in and am ready to set them in place.
Althought the springs look good as they are I want to make them look even better. They have discolorations all over them owing to being years old. Thus I think I will paint the visible springs parts black and covers a silverish grey. You know: kind of color similar to new covers.
Question: You you paint the covers or just go with unpainted as they came from the factory?
The old uncovered springs were painted black and looked nice under the car but not correct.
Let me know what you think as soon as you can so I don't have to take them back out. They are not as much trouble as the MC and Vacuum Shifter but not real easy either.
I would hesitate to paint the covers as the last thing you want is paint peeling from them. Not sure what the original covers looked like but if there is a way to clean them up and find a way to keep them from rusting that is how I would proceed. I did see some "zinc" paint when buying paint the other day. I think it was by Rustoleum.
Maybe Gene is still trying to come up with something that will confuse the h--l out of me.
Anyway, he is very knowledgable on this stuff.
My chassis is black as tar. Frame ånd drive train. Springs and hangers were too. Springs look good but I don't thing they're correct. I lean toward correctness than toward beauty. Except in ... well, you know.
Charlie, after thinking about it and reading Russells post I think the springs would have been painted chassis black along with every thing else on the chassis as it came down the line. I do have the book Russell referenced but with a black and white photo it's hard to tell. I agree-wait for Professor Gene for a definitive answer.
Springs were not painted. This includes front coil springs, uncovered springs, covered springs and replacement springs sold by Chevrolet. Aftermarket replacement springs were always painted black.
Important that the inlox bolt is not tightened with no weight on thespring. The spring should be at the normal riding height when the bolt is tightened to 90 foot pounds. Doing this places no "twist" in the rubber in the inlox bushing. Could even have an affect on the riding height.
I'll loosen the bolt and tighten it back up to specs.
Thanks,
Charlie
BTW: May be that there are others kind of like me. Although I have a maintenance manual, I never look at it unless I have given up all hope of ever figuring something out myself. Sort of like asking for directions.
BTW2. Only going to be 58 here today. Ill put on long-johns, three shirts, a vest and a heavy coat, boots with wool socks and then have her to venture out there to the barn. If she comes back with cold fingers, I'll call it a day and put off work on the cars another day. I got this excellent weather determining advice from Uncle Ed.
BTW3: This is the way I picture Uncle Ed and Chip and their missuses They got it made.
Note this is that little video by Tompall Glazer. Everyone has seen it but I put it here anyway just in case. No need to open, really.
Gene's advice about tightening rubber suspension bushings only when under normal load is very important. Unfortunately I have not seen this information in the older Chevy shop manuals.
I have seen many cases where a suspension bushing failed very soon after replacement when it was tightened in an unloaded position. The damage occurs because the bushing is put into loaded or twisted position just due to the weight of the car when it is lowered to the ground. When you drive the car the suspension gets loaded even more as you go over bumps and apply the brakes. This twists the rubber in the bushings even further. Ether the rubber itself fails or the rubber to steel bond breaks.
I forgot this when I replaced the Inlox bushings on my '37. After I set the car on the ground I looked at it an thought it seemed to be sitting a little higher than normal. Then I remembered that I had tightened the bushing bolt with the rear axle hanging down. I was able to reach under the car with a wrench and a socket on a ratchet to loosen the bolt. The car immediately dropped about 1". I re-tightened everything and life is good.
BTW (a Charlie trick to go off-track in a post): Yesterday my wife bought some ice cream at the store in Scottsdale. She put the groceries in the car and then realized she needed batteries for the gate opener. It was taking quite while for the person to find the right battery. She told him that she had ice cream in the car and would appreciate it if he could hurry up. His response was that it was good that it was a cooler day. It was down to 55!
Gene's advice applies to all rubber bushings that have steel sleeves (inner or outer or both) in them.
We used this trick as a way to transfer weight on our SCCA showroom stock races cars. We had to run the stock suspension so there was no obvious way to "weight jack" the car.. We would force the suspension arms into the position we wanted and then tighten the bushings, It worked but we definitely replaced a lot of bushings in a season!
![[Linked Image from pic100.picturetrail.com]](http://pic100.picturetrail.com/VOL401/9967837/17988031/414081109.jpg)
to venture out there to the barn. If she comes back with cold fingers, I'll call it a day and put off work on the cars another day. I got this excellent weather determining advice from Uncle Ed. 
