VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1929-1932 Installing An Electric Fuel Pump

I ordered an electric fuel pump to install on my 31. Mainly because the fuel bowl seems to evaporate when it sets a while and I hate to crank it until the fuel fills the bowl. My question is where is the best place to tap power from. I thought about wiring into the heater switch because I really don't use the heater and it would avoid adding another switch that doesn't belong there. Just wondering what your thoughts are and what you have done.

I make a small bracket that attaches to one of the sides of the steering column clamp. Then put the switch on that bracket. Safest way to route the wiring is the switched side of the electrolock. That way the pump is shut off when the ignition is off. Keeps from leaving the pump on when the car is stored or parked.

Cranking a short time before the engine fires can be good as it starts oil circulating before the ending is running. Helps to run a dry engine.

Has anyone got any suggestions what brand and where to buy a 6 volt fuel pump with the correct fuel pressure? I can't seem to find one that has a pressure low enough for my 33 Master Coupe.

Thanks,
Dennis

Some people use a pressure regulator with an electric fuel pump. A few have success but others have problems with inconsistent flow when the regulator is set for 1-2 psig or over pressuring the needle/seat. I only install electric pumps to be an intermittent auxiliary to the stock mechanical pump.

I ordered mine from the Filling Station, a few people have suggested that one to me.

Thank you Chipper, that sounds like a practical method. This forum is great for sharing ways of doing things.

Thanks Chipper. I want to install an electric pump to use only in case of a vapor lock. Just flip a toggle switch for a few seconds to restart it in case I'm in the middle of an intersection or a situation like that. Here in the high desert of California my car does vapor lock on a hot day.

holley makes a 1--4 pound adjustable fuel pressure regulator. You will also need a fuel pressure gauge to know exactly what pressure you have...........if 1-2 pounds is whats required, adjust it down to that.

Let it run all the time. Turn key on, let pump run until pressure is reached, hit gas pedal once to floor, then hold down slightly. If timing is set right, engine should fire on first turn . My 35 coupe has been running this since 1972

mike lynch

I have about 10 AIRTEK E8011 6 volt electric fuel pumps in service. It will pump up to about 7 PSI. They have two leads, so can be used on either negative or positive ground systems. I get them on E-Bay for around $30 to $45. I mount them close to the fuel tank inside the frame rail. I use them almost exclusively to prime the carburetor when it dries out after sitting for a few weeks. I still utilize the engine driven fuel pump as the main source for pumping fuel and it pulls right through the E 8011 with no problems. I install a toggle switch to the left side of the steering column with the lever sticking down in the flange under the dash. That way you cannot see the hole and the little lever is almost invisible. I power the switch from the ignition switch which eliminates the possibility of leaving the pump running when the engine is turned off. One other thing I do is position the switch so that forward is on and back is off. Makes sense to me to push the switch lever forward to go and back to stop, but that is just my little signal to myself. Although I do not disagree with Chip about the advisability of cranking the engine to move oil to the bearings thus preventing "Dry Starts," I am concerned with the wear on the starter for the continuous cranking for 60 to 90 seconds that it seems to take to get the carb primed. One offset I use is to let the engine idle before revving it up for a drive. As in many things, there are some compromises. Except for the car that is severely prone to vapor lock, I do not run pressure regulators. I use the electric pump to prime the carb and if it stumbles on a hot day after being shut off for a few minutes, like fueling up, I just hit the switch for a minute or so until the vapor lock is dissipated and then back to engine driven pump. I have one car that demands more pressure on any day over 90 degrees, so I go to O'Rileys and get their pressure regulator for about $30. I put it in line AFTER the engine driven fuel pump as you do not want to try to pull fuel through a regulator, only push. Therefore it dictates being placed after the engine pump. I run mine at about 4 PSI and haven't had any issues with it, and it sure helps when I get some fuel that is prone to vapor lock or on cold days when you use up the battery just trying to crank a cold engine long enough to get fuel to the cylinders. Just my 2 cents worth.

Correction, it is AIRTEX, Not AIRTEK. I just looked on E-bay, they range in price for a brand new unit for a low of $36.35 to one for over $100. Most are in the $45 to $55 range, and come complete with mounting clamp, hoses and clamps, and a filter, as well as multiple sizes of hose fittings.