Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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Originally Posted by m006840
The pistons are inside the cylinder and basically disc shaped about 3/8" thick. The pins you referred to butt up to them . I looked at cylinders on the NAPA site and they are double the money of the O'REILLY ones but I could not find out where either are made. i am guessing that both are made in China.
I'd love to see a pic of these.

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Originally Posted by m006840
The pistons are inside the cylinder and basically disc shaped about 3/8" thick. The pins you referred to butt up to them . I looked at cylinders on the NAPA site and they are double the money of the O'REILLY ones but I could not find out where either are made. i am guessing that both are made in China.
Thanks, i think my local Bowtie Bits is around double too but should be good coming from them.

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For photos just go to youtube. Not sure why they are aluminum but can only assume there is a good reason as that is all I am familiar with.


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The original pistons were like anodized for protection.
Modern cars with disc brake still use aluminum.
Years back some Chrysler products used plastic and they were even worse.

The shop manual has good exploded views of brake parts.

Last edited by Chev Nut; 11/24/18 09:38 PM.

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1946 Chevy 3100 1/2 Ton Pickup Purchased 11/18/17 Sold 9/20
1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Coupe, Purchased 6/20/2010
1965 Chevy ll 350 Purchased Feb 2021. 3-speed Saginaw Hurst Floor Shifter 3.08 Rear End

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I was hoping that they would invest in a shop manual.......for their own safety.


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Originally Posted by Chev Nut
I was hoping that they would invest in a shop manual.......for their own safety.
Are you referring to me Gene? If so, I purchased one a week or two ago, but I ordered the CD from The Filling Station and it's on backorder.

Alan

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Not intended for any one person. Sorry if I offended you.You will find the shop manual may be a little general but a good starting point. Then we can always help out from there.


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I got a owners and shop manual with my truck...I apologies if i am asking to many questions

Last edited by StephenC; 11/25/18 01:43 PM.
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NO, keep asking questions. Our answers will not only assist you but also others that are using the forum.


Gene Schneider
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Originally Posted by Keith Knox
thanks

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I noticed the grease point on top of the tranny, do you recommend a certain grease for this? the oils and grease probably have changed over the years

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The grease fill plug is on the side of the transmision. Fill to bottom of the plug hole with SAE 140.

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what is the grease gun fitting on the top for? speedo gear?

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Guys
The original topic was about brakes. A new thread needs to be started since the subject has drifted into an unrelated subject. Mixing topics in the same thread causes a search request to miss potentially useful information for others.
37Blue, Moderator

Last edited by 37Blue; 11/25/18 10:23 PM.
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Originally Posted by Chev Nut
Not intended for any one person. Sorry if I offended you.You will find the shop manual may be a little general but a good starting point. Then we can always help out from there.
No worries.

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I'm getting ready to start looking at my brakes.

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The pistons are inside the wheel cylinders so will be necessary to disassemble the cylinder to see or drive out the piston. I would not spray ant oily product in there for fear it will find its way into other "rubber" brake parts.


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Originally Posted by Chev Nut
The pistons are inside the wheel cylinders so will be necessary to disassemble the cylinder to see or drive out the piston. I would not spray ant oily product in there for fear it will find its way into other "rubber" brake parts.
In that case it would seem that this would be the time for rebuilding them.

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Thee is a place that I believe is in Arizona that supplies a kit that includes the aluminum pistons. The "normal" kits do not come with pistons.


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I agree with Gene that these days it is almost impossible to find rebuild kits that include the pistons. I was luck about 10 years ago because the kits that AutoZone sold had them. But no more!

Please do not spray any petroleum based chemicals around the brakes! They will ruin the brake shoes and contaminate the hydraulic portions of the system. It will make the rubber pieces swell and then fall apart.

If the pistons are bonded to the cylinders you will probably have to drive them out with a hammer and punch. That is what I had to do on my car. Then I spent a lot of time honing the cylinders to clean them up. Even with the new pistons and seals a few of them weep a little bit of fluid.

I drive my car so much that I am probably gong to buy new cylinders this winter. At a minimum I will then have the old cylinders bored and sleeved and use the pistons and seals from the new cylinders.

I wasted a lot of time trying to save those original cylinders to get at best mediocre results. Thank goodness mine have not leaked enough to ruin the brake shoes.


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Originally Posted by Chev Nut
Thee is a place that I believe is in Arizona that supplies a kit that includes the aluminum pistons. The "normal" kits do not come with pistons.
I see...

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Having worked at brake specialist workshop I would send the cylinders to a specialist for resleeving with stainless steel now and forget about trying to bore them out yourself. While it is not impossible the $1 you save is not worth the grief of getting it wrong.
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Go to Rockauto.com

They have the kits and the cylinders.

Last edited by ruscar; 12/03/18 01:23 PM.

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Originally Posted by ruscar
Go to Rockauto.com

They have the kits and the cylinders.
Thanks.

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