VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1937-1945 Replacing Vacuum Shift

I'm in the middle of replacing the vacuum shift mechanism on the grey 41. "X" frame.

Any hints concerning the hook-up of the vacuum line, the clam shells, etc will be appreciated.

The space for this installation is really limited as it is for all X frames thru 48 or so. It would be a help to be a contortionist. See link.

The reason I'm replacing it is the boot (bellows is toast) and I have a NOS one in the original box that I'm sticking in her.

Thanks,

Charlie

Sounds like a fun project for a Thanksgiving holiday!

I know this sounds trivial so please accept it as a hard learned lesson. Make sure the NOS part works before you install it. I put a vacuum control on a car heating system (miserable to get to) without checking it first. Got to do it again!

Rusty,

I checked the new one and found it way off. I followed the manual and, using the tool made for that purpose, got it adjusted just right. The fun is keeping from letting it turn whilst hooking it up. They are real sensitive in adjustments..

Right now the new one is up and through the frame hole. Getting the vacuum hose attached is giving me a fit. Clam shells, etc will be a b...h as well.

It is forecast to only reach around 60 degrees today. I ain't going out there in such foul weather. Stay inside the house where it's toasty and watch ball games.

Maybe Monday.

Thanks,

Charlie

Only reach 60! You might have to work without a shirt.
Hit maybe 28 here today and jeans and t-shirt was almost too warm. Even the snow was melting in that heat as I shovelled it...
It will sure suck when the sun goes down. You don't know how good 60 sounds lol.
Good that you found a NOS unit to install.

Hi Charlie,
what do you need exactly? Here are some Pictures. Is this helpful? The red Hose is going to the Filter the black one to the engine. You say you replace yours. Didn´t you take pictures?

The only thing that may be a problem is the vacuum line from the end of the "J" pipe to the inlet to the vacuum cylinder. This line must be extremely flexible, but must not be capable of collapsing when vacuum is applied. A stiff line can pull the cylinder adjustment out of line.

Ray,

Thanks for the tip. I appreciate it. This stinkin change of vacuum cylinders is giving me a fit. Mostly owing to the cramped space available on the convertible/cabrilot frame. It is still not back in place. It may be spring before I can get it fixed. Stinkin weather down here. I don;t see how you other up farther north stand it. Sure don't. Cold freezing fngers are the problem. Mercy!

Recommendation to all: Never buy a 40-48 convertible unless you have a buddy with slim fingers who will help you work underneath it. The extra frame supports crossat every delicate place and always in the way. Try taking the transmission, MC or vacuum shifter out. Goooood grief!

Best,

Charlie

Charlie: have you taken the trans cover (inside the car) off? Might give you another angle to work. All this work started because of the rubber boot was torn or wasn't the vac shift working properly?

Dick

Andre,

Thanks for the pictures. If you were to picture a cassis beam right across the end of the cylinder, you may have some indication of the space to work. Unlike on a regular car with a convertible It is super tight when connecting the clam shells and getting the boot in place.


I can change out my 41 5-pass with hardly any trouble at all. Not so on this bugger.

Dick,

No I didn't take the transmission cover off. The fear of tearing the old style carpet/rug caused me to opt to just work underneath. Actually, I don't think it would have helped very much.

Got it in tonight and it works good. Got to tackle the clam shells and end of boot tomorrow.

Interestingly the j-pipe end was cut off. I borrowed one from the coupe. I think I have another one (J) just have to find it.

All this and yesterday I found out the generator wasn't working. Fortunately I have a NOS one with the proper numbers I was saving for the project car. If the instant one has the right numbers I may just repair it. Probably just brushes.

Thanks to all,

Charlie

Are you saying the 41 convs came with carpet in the front? That surprises me! I would think (especially convs) would have a rubber mat.
Good luck on getting the boot on. I had a terrible time stretching one on my 47. First one I tried ripped. Might want to put it in the misses oven & warm it up b/4 trying.. Pls just don't tell the misses I told you to do it.

Didn't mean to imply/infer that the floor mat was carpet. It is the old original style with the inserts.

Hard to get these days.

Best,

Charlie

BTW: The missus hates me and anything to do with my old cars. Accordingly, I don't dare bother her and anything to do with her domain. She protested when I boiled the last gear-shift knob. After over 60 years of beomg yoked together, I may just have to go for a loaf of bread. You who have an understanding missus (as does Chip) don't know what you're missing. Don't get me started.

You know, what is it with these women? Mine got upset the last time I cleaned some parts in her dishwasher...and she wasn't too happy when I was warming parts in the oven...a little grease never hurt anyone's digestive system, seems like I'm eating it more often than I would like...LOL

Got the sucker in and it is working as intended.

Just have to put the bellow ends on the clam shells and the bolts through the shells.

Took the generator off (wasn't working) and cleaned it up. Mainly the commutator. Had to polarize it at VR by touching the batt and gen poles with a wire. Whatever they are. Just not the Field one.

Charges as it should now. (Best to have a book and follow it on these type repairs, if not all.)

Next will be replacing the two rear springs. Too cold to do unless the sun is shining and the temperature is above 55 or 60. Fingers get too cold handling metal stuff when it's below that temperature. May have to wait until after the spring equinox for that. I ain't no animal. You know, no natural fur a-growing all over us down here.. Mercy!

Best,

Charlie

Hi Charlie,

Why not take your car to a shop that does spring work? Bring them the manual, all your new parts, a dozen donuts, and ask that you be allowed to watch and help with directions. Pretend that you are a nice old guy, and would be glad to pay their hourly shop rate. This is not a job for the faint at heart who remember doing it 40 years ago. I did all my spring work on a frame with no body on it in a heated garage. To me your safety is worth the money you might spend. Yes it could be $1000. If you are anal like me you might even give them a list of the steps in the process.

Good luck, Mike

When I had my workshop I had 3 hourly rate, customer went shopping leaving me to do the job $80, customer stayed and watched $120 and if customer helped $200, this was 20 years ago and these days I would be tempted to at least double those numbers now.
Tony

TonyW<

Ha, ha! I get that. I think plumbers charge those rates also.


Mike,

The reason your suggestion is not considered follows:

a. New reporting ” axes by auto shops have taken on heavy penalties. They must charge the book rate for hours work. No more off the record buddy system work.

b. Safety is not an issue. If the dang spring was to dislodge whilst being installed and kill me then, at least, my missus would be happy. Would too! She'd jump up and down and run out of the house and do cart wheels on the lawn to celebrate. What a gal!

c. The only thing that could be down-right annoying is getting the front eye in and the centering "dowel" in the spring at the same time. Takes some patience that I lack but will just have to take a break and go back to it when I've simmered down a bit. Actually, this is a piece o-cake compared to the MC and the vacuum shifter.

e. Re the shop crew: I can pretend that I'm a nice guy but my reputation precedes me and any pretense of civility will be laughed at. They all know I'm an _____! (fill in the blank).

Best,

Charlie