Yes the huck brakes are notorious for sticking. I got away with taking the pistons out and wire brushing them, but I hear it's better to replace with new. The pistons corrode and stick in the bore. The hydraulic pressure pushes them out but the spring will not let them return.
Yes the huck brakes are notorious for sticking. I got away with taking the pistons out and wire brushing them, but I hear it's better to replace with new. The pistons corrode and stick in the bore. The hydraulic pressure pushes them out but the spring will not let them return.
I can tell you that they are called "Huck" brakes because they were designed by a friend of Tom Sawyer. I can also tell you that the whole story is fiction. Now someone else is sure to post that it does not have anything to do with brakes or who was painting a picket fence and why. Since Charlie has a couple of '41s that are in the Huck era, he probably has some NC wisdom to add to this topic. Hopefully someone that actually knows what they are writing will also respond.
When I do a full brake job on these old fellows I clean up the wheel cylinders and master cylinder and send them out to be lined. I purchase new kits and assemble them myself. I have never had a problem with this system. If you purchase NOS wheel and master cylinders they may be rusty to begin with and the rubber will be old. Price wise the lining is the winning solution.
Chipper's Tom Sawyer reference is based on 2 books by Samuel Clements a.k.a. Mark Twain. He wrote Tom Sawyer and Huckleberry Finn. I agree with Chipper. I doubt if Huck Finn was responsible for this brake design.
But Charlie would know the true story (or at least could give us a good one).
The Huck brake design has a fixed lower pivot for the front and rear shoes of each wheel. The brake cylinder is at the top of the assembly. Each piston pushes out to make the top of the shoe rub against the drum. There is a secondary linkage at the bottom of each shoe to push the lower part of that shoe out to rub the drum.
The shoes operate somewhat independently. "Somewhat" is because the shoe with the least resistance will move first when the brake pedal is pushed. Once that shoe starts pushing against the drum the other shoe will move until it hits the drum. That is why it is critical to adjust both the front and rear shoes on a Huck brake.
I may have the bull by the horns but I think Ray meant the hydraulic cylinders to get lined, machined out to a oversize and then a thin sleeve (these days stainless steel) fitted to bring the size back to original. Tony
I may have the bull by the horns but I think Ray meant the hydraulic cylinders to get lined, machined out to a oversize and then a thin sleeve (these days stainless steel) fitted to bring the size back to original.
I'd like to hear more about relining the cylinder and how that is done.
They basically machine the master or wheel cylinder oversize, press in a new copper or stainless sleeve. They then machine the new sleeve down to the proper size that the original bore was, providing a new, better surface than original.
See Here:
The problem with a new cylinder is finding one that is USA made and not an overseas made unit that will deteriorate rather quickly.
1938 Canadian Pontiac Business Coupe (aka a 1938 Chevy Coupe with Pontiac shaped front sheet metal - almost all Chevy!) 1975 4-speed L82 Vette
They basically machine the master or wheel cylinder oversize, press in a new copper or stainless sleeve. They then machine the new sleeve down to the proper size that the original bore was, providing a new, better surface than original.
See Here:
The problem with a new cylinder is finding one that is USA made and not an overseas made unit that will deteriorate rather quickly.
Cylinder resleevers are often easier to find than good new cylinders. Also when there is a stainless sleeve fitted there will not be a rusted bore problem again which can do with new cylinder mostly made of cast iron/steel. Tony
I haven't priced this in a few years but wasn't alarming. Some offer a full service so you get a complete new looking, painted, assembled cylinder in a box with a new kit installed, instructions and warranty. Some offer just a re-lining service so you can do the rest yourself.
The weak point with the imported cylinders is the inconsistent quality: Poor metal = cylinder corrosion / piston corrosion and poor quality seals. If you keep fluid fresh you could get a few years but cheap and plentiful. Great to carry for emergency spares.
Buy whatever cylinders you can source easily/quickly to get the truck mobile, inspected and safe. That will buy you a couple years to investigate further and see if you need to be replacing lines or mechanical brake components for longevity. For now....Get-er-done....
1938 Canadian Pontiac Business Coupe (aka a 1938 Chevy Coupe with Pontiac shaped front sheet metal - almost all Chevy!) 1975 4-speed L82 Vette
