Have you thought about offering an apprenticeship program? I think that would increase your production ability while they learn. I don't really expect many would see it as an opportunity for a lifetime career owing to low demand.
My thoughts would be for someone wishing to augment their skills to be able to take on wood framed car bodies as required. Once I get a full shop up and running I had planned on apprenticeship as an option. I am presently keeping any and all options open. I am not reliant on this as an income but am limited as to what I can invest. Ultimately I would prefer to get this up and running and as I approach an older age have people who can take it over and keep the service available for years to come. Why let the knowledge and talent die with me kind of idea. At any rate it should be an interesting adventure.
Cool I can now attach photos here. Here is the main floor section for my 1929 Sedan. This is done in maple as was the original car (built in Canada). As the weather warms up I will clean off the chassis and start setting up the whole body. The second photo is the body test fitted in my den.
Just in! Body for a 1924 Star touring. Not a Chev I know but similar construction to all late teens early 20s touring bodies. This project will start over the next couple of weeks.
Hi all; cabboy what do you recommend for wood preservation?( This is J. in mo.) I finally have all of my wood for the 34 DB truck. But now I am going to rough fit it . Any help would be app. Thanks J.
I haven't settled on any one yet but am trying some of the water seal products that are available. You do need to make sure the formulation does not include any silicone as that will impact painting.
When I was going to coat my new wood for the roadster , a google search turned up EPIFANES VARNISH, made in Holland as having the best reputation for quality with antique boat restorers. Its not cheap and here is $50 per liter/quart. Their thiner is about 1/3 of the price. Was able to get it locally from boat parts supply in Whitby. I just googled the name and appears amazon sells it . You get what you pay for.
You thin the first coat 50% with their thinner and thin subsequent coats less. I used mixing marked containers showing ratio on the sides. I also bought a quality hair brush to apply the varnish as recommended by Epifanes on the can.
Got the rear kick-up section mated to the main floor for my 29 Sedan today. I am going to set this up on my chassis so I can work on it between the 1928 Durant and 1924 Star I am working on for other people. Also clears some space in the workshop as well.
Here are a couple of pictures of the drivers front door wood for my 1929 Chevrolet Sedan. I also finally set up a website at www.automotivewoodbodies.com
The rear kick for the Sedan. The corner brackets were not yet installed in this picture. I need to make a new metal pan for this unless I can find a good used one.
Hi all; cabboy what do you recommend for wood preservation?( This is J. in mo.) I finally have all of my wood for the 34 DB truck. But now I am going to rough fit it . Any help would be app. Thanks J.
Our Chevys, at least those made in the USA, were preserved with a copper arsenic based solution which yielded a greenish coloring to the wood. I did extensive research on the subject and believe the solution probably contained some pine tar also. They may or may not have been linseed oil with it also. Of course, copper arsenic is no longer available but copper naphthalene is, which is the product used in its place today. Thompson water seal is a very similar product and dries clear rather than green. If you’re going for OEM, the CN, pine tar, and linseed oil mixture would probably be the closest. No glossy sealers were used. The mixture I mentioned also is an insecticide.
[ Thompson water seal is a very similar product and dries clear rather than green..
I have been testing out the Thompson water seal. My biggest fear was paint adheasion in case any silicone was in the formula. Seems not as I have had no issue with paint so far. It could be tinted green if that look is required but as a good deal of the wood was over-sprayed when the bodies were painted and the rest of the interior surfaces were covered with upholstery I am just using it clear.
In case anyone is interested I have started up a new album on my facebook page "Automotive Wood Bodies" for the rebuilding of a 1929 Chevrolet wood spoke wheel. I will be posting pictures as I go through the process of creating jigs and fixtures as well as the creation of the spokes and assembly of the wheel.
So recently I finished a Star touring body and it was just picked up by its owner. I still have work to do on a 1928 Durant Sedan but found a little time to start test fitting the wood to the body of my 1929 Chevrolet Sedan. Checking the fit before I start work on the sheet metal.
Test fitted the rear belt rail and the multitude of pieces that brace it. I'll get every thing assembled dry and then check the sheet metal fit. Once I am satisfied I will glue it all together and start repairing the tin to fit.
I swear you wood guys have an extra level of patience. I'm finding it hard enough to battle time, space, weather and humidity just to blast rust free metal parts and get them into epoxy primer. I couldn't imagine having to build a complex wooden structure and THEN have to move on to the metal work!
Just amazing to see what you can do!
1938 Canadian Pontiac Business Coupe (aka a 1938 Chevy Coupe with Pontiac shaped front sheet metal - almost all Chevy!) 1975 4-speed L82 Vette
I swear you wood guys have an extra level of patience. I'm finding it hard enough to battle time, space, weather and humidity just to blast rust free metal parts and get them into epoxy primer. I couldn't imagine having to build a complex wooden structure and THEN have to move on to the metal work!
Just amazing to see what you can do!
Hi Tim, Go to my Facebook page "Automotive Wood Bodies" and check out the 1924 Star touring I just finished. The gentleman just picked it up and brought it back to Texas.
Had a look and it looked great. Wood actually seems like it could be calming to work on compared to all steel. Good for you that they are coming all the way from Texas for your work!
1938 Canadian Pontiac Business Coupe (aka a 1938 Chevy Coupe with Pontiac shaped front sheet metal - almost all Chevy!) 1975 4-speed L82 Vette
Wood work is calming for me. Not so much when I get things wrong but I learn each time and just redo it. The Star was fun to do but the tin work consternated me somewhat. I can do it I just don't like it. I guess most bodies I will do will come from the US. When I tell people here what it will cost they kind of go white as a sheet. Thanks for looking and you are welcome to like the page.
I have been following your Facebook posts for about a year. It is one of the most interesting items on facebook. Thanks for posting.
Thank you. If the page generated more interest I might consider posting more information. Right now I have to concentrate on the work and don't have time for write-ups or detailed how-it's-done posts.
