VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1929-1932 Correct disconnect switch ?

Would anyone know if a 180 amp continuous, and 1000 amp intermittent rated battery disconnect switch would be suitable for use with a 6v system with the stock Delco Remy 714L starter on my '32 ? I don't know the cranking amps of this starter. My positive and negative cable are 3/0 (000) gauge. I plan to locate the switch on the negative side as close to the battery as possible. This cable is grounded to one of the hold down bolts for the starter. There seems to be a lot of inexpensive switches out there, mostly rated for 12v and I don't want to take any chances. Thank you.

disconnect switch model

The specs I could find on a 714L starter indicate that that switch would be acceptable unless you need to crank the starter a long time.

The current draw if the starter is locked is 430 amps. No load amperage draw is 75 amps.

I expect that the starter could easily draw 250 amps cranking the engine.

Appreciate the specs. Thank you. I had one of those inexpensive $6.00 post mounted ones that had an on/off twist knob. It was hard to tell when it actually disconnected the circuit. It was easy to spin it too much or too little and probably wasn't sized correctly anyway.

Those numbers are close to what the one i bough is rated, and talking to the manufacturer it should work flawlessly, unless you crank the starter for a LONG duration.

Building Battery & Ground Cables w/ Disconnect Switch

I am using an Optima 6v Redtop, its CCA is only 800 so should be fine, since the switch can handle intermittent up to 1000 Amps !!

my switch specs rated at: (red are electrically calculated based on the 24v & 12v numbers from manufacturer)
Max Operating Voltage: 24V DC
Intermittent Current: 1000A at 5 sec @ 12v
.................................500A at 5 sec @ 24v
.................................2000 at 5 sec @ 6v
Max Continuous Current: 100A @ 24v
.........................................150A @ 12v
.........................................200A @ 6v

also have one of these in my toolbox: battery disconnect

Jerry, thanks for the additional specs. That's a neat job on your switch install but shouldn't you have gone with 2/0 (00) gauge cables ? I thought I saw you used 1/0 (0) gauge.

I've read that 2/0 is a minimum to insure optimum cranking with 6v systems.

1/0 cables will do the job nicely.

i did some research and yes many recommend 2/0 cable, i went with 1/0 BUT i am also using an Optima AGM 6V Red Top, that thing cranks the 6v system like a charm even with the old crappy cable i replaced. I have NOT tried it yet with the NEW updated Cables.

And if they do NOT work well, they are easy enough to replace based on how I made them and connected them.

Does anyone know the wire size of the cables sold by TFS?

They should be able to answer that question. If they can't, don't buy

Dick

Here's a pic of my Fastronix high current kill switch I just installed. It's on the positive battery cable this time, secured by a bracket screwed into the pass side wood sill. I couldn't secure it anywhere on the negative side unless I lengthened the cable. Those 2/0 cables aren't the most flexible to work with.

you're looking at pass side from front of car

The switch looks great! By the way, you might want to put a rubber boot over the positive cable where it attaches to the top of the starter switch just to be safe.

Looks good, nice mounting set up !!
simple effective and clean

i still need to wire up the hard wire for the Battery Tender. this way when i park it i can flip the switch, pop the battery cover and plug it in. no messing with the clamps. hoping it will make it easy to seal with the Tender.

The Tender i ordered came with a set of each
Ring Terminal Harness
Alligator Clips

simply plug in the set you want to the tender

You have to open the hod to turn the switch off?

Ring Terminal Harness
Alligator Clips

The ad states that the above items are for 12 volts only.

yeah i see that now, they no longer make the 6v tender i have !!
this is what i bought: Battery Tender 021-0144 Battery Tender Plus 6V

per my manual:

Agree. A boot on the starter would be a good idea. I have rubber boots over the 2 switch's pos terminals. And yes, the hood must be opened to operate.

I added a disconnect switch today using Bearsfan315's ideas. I did not want the key protruding so I cut it and slotted the lower end to accept a slotted screwdriver. Also added a spacer under the switch so it would be level to the crossmember . It is flush with the floor when active and just 1/8" above when off. I put it on the ground side and was able to cut the existing cable and just add two ends.

Very nice :) how did you make your spacer ?? i 3d printed the one i used. i like the switch mod. i am thinking of designing and 3d printing a custom switch to keep it out of the way.

I just cut one out of wood with a hole saw and painted it black as most of my wood is painted.