VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - GENERAL Electrical - 6 volt 1938 ignition switch and cable

I found the part in the subject line, but I need to verify that the number is a correct application. The Chevy parts books call for part 1865216. The eBay seller identifies his as Standard LSC-23 or 435F. Googling those numbers was pretty much a dead end, except the 435-F does appear, for 1937--39, in a 1948 Delco-Remy electrical parts catalog A-101. So, can anybody confirm that the Standard LSC-23 is the correct part for my 38 Master Sedan?

In the Delco-Remy parts history it does show 1865216 being superseded by 435F. A picture of the Standard unit might help someone confirm it is the same as 435F.

Dave

What's the ebay item number? If it's this one, it's not like the one on my '38. It may or may not work but it's the wrong armored cable and the cap over the coil is different. This one is broken but is what it should look like.

Dave, the one in Tiny's post (If it's this one) is the one I had in mind. Kyle

Tiny, yes, your first link (If it's this one) is the one I was looking at. My research matches Dave's response: 1865216 was superseded by 435F. However, I still can't link that Delco Remy 435F to the eBay Standard LSC-23. I've asked the seller, thinking he might have a box for the part or even a catalog, but I'm the tree falling in the woods with no one around to hear. On that 2nd link you included, that one looks as thought it's been ridden hard and put away wet. It looks like a project all by itself. The two switches are very different: on the Standard LSC-23, the housing for the switch itself looks like 2 pieces, with a flange in between, to fasten the switch to, I'm guessing, the dash. On the one that matches yours, that flange seems to be part of the housing base.
I think I'll try the seller again, and then just steer clear if I can't get an answer.
I appreciate the time that you and Dave took on my issue. My 38 sedan is a patchwork quilt that I'm trying to restore to matching numbers. Someone modernized my car--added a solenoid above the starter, removed the starter button pedal, and moved the ignition switch from the dash's center to the upper left.
BTW, Tiny, do you think the 2nd one is worth having? I wouldn't be able to fix it myself, and I don't know where I'd find someone who could--and I'm just talking about function; the aesthetics could be even worse. What do you think?

I does not look like the one on my 39. As tiny said the cap is different. You might contact the seller and see where he got the information that it was the same as a 435F?

Dave

Thanks, Dave, I just sent the seller a 2nd question, asking for a Standard catalog or a parts box or something. I already have plenty of incorrect parts; I don't need any more.
I would like your thoughts on what I asked Tiny: is the cheaper eBay switch, with the broken attachment ear and the wire repair, worth the time? It looks to me as though they've used a crowbar or a big screwdriver and pried that switch out, maybe there was a fastener that wouldn't budge. I'm just not very good at things like that, and I don't know where to find someone. Kyle

Is your switch missing or just not working? I would not mess with the broken one unless I had the replacement parts and ability to swap them out.

Dave

No, I have a switch, and it works. I'm just convinced that everything about this car is wrong. Just for example, my 38 Master has a 1949 Chevy truck engine. The electrical system has parts with incorrect numbers. That said I think I'll take your advice and just go with the "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" rule. Thanks again for taking the time. Kyle

The ebay seller finally responded. He added 2 pix from the Standard Motor Products catalog. They verify, at least from Standard's position, that their LSC-23 replaces the 435F, and that it fits Chevrolet 1937--39. Can you look at that and let me know what you think?

The ebay seller finally responded. He added 2 pix from the Standard Motor Products catalog. They verify, at least from Standard's position, that their LSC-23 replaces the 435F, and that it fits Chevrolet 1937--39. Can you look at that and let me know what you think?

Here a pics of the electrlock from my '38. One shows the key end. One shows the "cap" end and one shows it in place on my car. Do yourself a favor and use a dremel tool to remove the lock tab on the cap that locks the cap to the coil. Removal requires a special tool, many bad words and, as in my case, a destroyed coil trying to remove it. If you grind off the tab it's a simple twist and lift to remove it.