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Am in the process of restoring my vehicle and have come across a bend in one of the crossmembers. It is only on the bottom side, bent up and rearward. Being as the top is still flat, this appears to be more cosmetic than functional, but being as I'm this far into the project I really don't want to just leave it and paint over it. I've called several body shops in my area and they either won't repair a frame by itself/something that old/just too busy with hail repairs to take on anything else. So am considering fixing it myself. The two options I'm thinking are either..
A) support it on the bottom side with heavy piece of iron, heat it with a torch and hammer it flat/forward back into position. (Problem here is i see mixed reviews on putting a torch to your frame/weakening the metal/etc)
B) cut out the bent iron, and MIG weld in flat stock of the same size

Wanted to get input if anyone has done similar repairs and which method might be a better way to go? Thanks

I would straighten it cold. See if you can obtain a heavier bar (3/4 X 2 or more). You will need a stronger clamp to pull it down. Ebay has the Armstrong machinist clamps.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...0&_nkw=armstrong+clamps&_sacat=0

You will need a plate under the clamp screw so you don't dent the frame and some shim material so you can over bend it to compensate for springback.

Yes bend it cold. You can use heavy C clamps or a hammer or a portapower hydraulic cylinder. Just remember that you have to bend it slightly past straight as the metal will rebound a little. Probably not much on the frame steel. Small bends, pushes or taps are much better than one heavy wallop. I have also used large pipe or adjustable wrench starting near the straight part and working slowly toward the middle from each end.

I would do it while cold. I think if you apply hydraulic pressure to the point of the bend in the opposite direction (appears to have caught on something while travelling forward) so push from the rear the lower flange will most likely come down to near correct flat as you push.
In the top pic where the "X" and the side rail meet behind the bend would be a good place to push from but use solid packing to spread the force.
Tony

The key to removing dents is to reverse the force that put the dent in the metal. The closer to exactly the direct opposite force the better.

Thanks for the input...so definitely avoid heat if possible?

Great idea on the bridge clamps...i tried using clamps before but they were just medium duty. Will try ordering one of these and see if wrenching on it will give me the force i need...

I love these clamps. They are like a portable arbor press. I found a 6" one on ebay at a low price.

Got it repaired. Once it was sandblasted and I got a closer look I could see that the crossbeams were 3 pieces welded together from the factory. So I cut out the bent lower piece, straightened the vertical webbing with a large hammer and an even larger sledge hammer used as a dolly. Then I welded in new piece of flat bar in. Here are some pictures of the damage and repair...

like new!

In the words of Clint Eastwood in a movie..........."Be a marine, adapt and overcome" . I think you did that in spades.

mike lynch