VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND NEWER 1949-1954 Valve guides

My vacuum gauge tells me that I should have my valve guides replaced. I am also losing coolant with no external leaks, no contamination in the oil pan and no oil in the radiator. I do have a white sludge forming on the inside of the valve cover.
Is it possible for coolant escaping via the valve guides and eventually out through the exhaust? The engine is a 1954 solid lifter 235.
Any thoughts out there?
Dave B

If coolant was going out the exhaust there would be white smoke coming out the pipe. If white sludge is in the valve cover there must be some in the oil.

My only thought are you have coolant leaking into the oil. Could be a cracked had or the head gasket.....to most common areas.
When you remove the head measure the actual valve guide clearence, don't trust tthe vacuum gauge for that.
The coolant can not get into the oil from the valve guides.

Thanks for your comments.
There is no white smoke coming out of the exhaust. I also watched for vapour dripping from the tailpipe and there is none. The oil on the dipstick is clear with no discolouration so it doesn’t look like it contains antifreeze.

I guess it means I need to pull the head and see what I can find. I see a sore back in my future.

I removed the head and took it to a machine shop to be told the head is cracked, bummer!
Question
What years head can be used on a 1954 235 solid lifter engine?

Dave B

1954-1962 235. If it is a 1956-62 head you will need an adaptor fitting (from the F.S.) for the temperature gauge.

The head has casting #3835913 which I believe fits a 1954-1955 solid lifter engine. Can I use a later head with casting #3836848?
I read somewhere the valve springs were stiffer on the 3836848 hydraulic lifter cars.
Comments welcome.
Dave B

Short answer yes.

The lifters have nothing to do with the head. The 848 head was used from 1956-1962 on all 235 engines.. The casting number change was due to the slight change in the casting in the heat gauge area.
Depending on what year the 848 head is from it will could have a higher compression ratio than your 1954 head That means more power and better gas mileage.

Valve springs were stiffer on the 1954-1958 Power glides and 1956-1958 stickes due to the higher lift cam shafts.

Thanks to all the contributors, the search is on for a replacement head, they are not as plentiful as they once were in the Great White North! (More like the Smokey White North)
Dave B

I have a 3836848 235 head I bought from napa when the owner did not come back to pick it up it was checked for cracks and looks to have new valve guides
If finding one closer is not possible

That’s good to know such a good unit is available, unfortunately NM is long way from Vancouver Island, BC, Canada but you never know..........
Thanks
Dave B

UPS or one of the other carriers would be glad to transport it.

Seeing he is in Canada the freight could be a LARGE factor. I suggest getting the total cost of the head and freight . Then you can compare cost if you find another. I found it easier to get one off Ebay that was rebuilt and freight included. It was not cheap ( $800 ) but I estimated getting one locally and then having it tested and rebuilt was not worth the effort. A good guaranteed not cracked head will probably run around $300-$500 and I would not purchase one hoping it is rebuildable.

Have the head shipped to a friend in the US and pick it up from there.

TOPO: I would like to converse with you about your cyl head for a 235 but I don’t know how to private message using this forum.
Would you email me at dwballantyne@shaw.ca please?
Thanks
Dave B

To send a PM click on their user name on the L.H. box. A list of user options will open up.

Found a cylinder head close to home and had it rebuilt at a shop. Engine runs nice except it has developed a knock it never had before. What about having a new recondition head might have lead to the engine developing a knock? Frustrating

Push rod hitting something (bent?) is the first thing that comes to mind. Use a mechanics stethoscope, or rod or long screwdriver or piece of hose to locate the noise. Move it around with it up to your ear until you find where the noise is the loudest. That should be the source. I say should be as sometimes the noise travels solid metal to another location.

A push rod can not contact the side cover on a 235 engine.
Is it a solid or hydraulic lifter engine?
Is a valve sticking? Pour some Marvel Mystery Oil or ATF through the thrroat of the carburetor with engine running at a fast idle to lube valve guides and see what happens besides a lot of exhaust smoke.

It’s a solid lifter engine. There is no noticeable miss which I would expect with a sticky valve but I like your suggestion to try Marvel Mystery Oil (ATF is new to me). Anything to avoid a tear down.Will try a hose to locate the source .
Thanks