Clutch should not be disengaged when stopping until about 10 MPH. Engine stopping.........does engine idle OK otherwise? Idle mixture screw may need a little adjusting or dirt in low speed jet. Idke speed set to slow.
Clutch should not be disengaged when stopping until about 10 MPH. Engine stopping.........does engine idle OK otherwise? Idle mixture screw may need a little adjusting or dirt in low speed jet. Idke speed set to slow.
Hi Gene. Yes it idles OK. A while back it wouldn't slow down when I released the gas, turns out the throttle return spring was weak. I'm going to have to look at those other things in the manual. Is the idle mixture screw the one with a spring on the passenger side of the carb?
Clutch should not be disengaged when stopping until about 10 MPH. Engine stopping.........does engine idle OK otherwise? Idle mixture screw may need a little adjusting or dirt in low speed jet. Idke speed set to slow.
Hi Gene. Yes it idles OK. A while back it wouldn't slow down when I released the gas, turns out the throttle return spring was weak. I'm going to have to look at those other things in the manual. Is the idle mixture screw the one with a spring on the passenger side of the carb?
Clutch should not be disengaged when stopping until about 10 MPH. Engine stopping.........does engine idle OK otherwise? Idle mixture screw may need a little adjusting or dirt in low speed jet. Idke speed set to slow.
Hi Gene. Yes it idles OK. A while back it wouldn't slow down when I released the gas, turns out the throttle return spring was weak. I'm going to have to look at those other things in the manual. Is the idle mixture screw the one with a spring on the passenger side of the carb?
OOOPs. went for a ride with my wife last night and it stopped at every intersection. Returned home early. I guess I'll have to check the other items on the list.
Just some food for thought. About 6 or so months ago I had a similar problem with my 1936 Standard. Started good, idled good but when I went for a drive it would cut out when coasting to a stop. It would start back up immediately but do the same thing when coasting to a stop unless I revved the engine speed. It turns out the low speed jet was clogged. After I cleaned it the car runs perfectly. Maybe you have the same problem.
Just some food for thought. About 6 or so months ago I had a similar problem with my 1936 Standard. Started good, idled good but when I went for a drive it would cut out when coasting to a stop. It would start back up immediately but do the same thing when coasting to a stop unless I revved the engine speed. It turns out the low speed jet was clogged. After I cleaned it the car runs perfectly. Maybe you have the same problem.
Thanks. that was my next thing to check. Looks like I have to remove the carb to get at it. Rainy day today. I just might do that.
To clean the low speed jet do this. Remove air cleaner. Place #3 spark plug wire on #4, and #4 on #3. Start engine and jam down the gas pedal hard a few times. This will cause the engine to back-fire through the carburetor and blow the dirt out of the tiny hole in the low speed jet.
If you have a shop air compressor remove the idle fuel mixture screw and put a few short bursts of compressed air in through the hole. This may cause fuel to splash out of the float bowl so have some rag handy to soak up any spillage, refit the screw. A base setting for the screw is in to lightly seated then out 1.5 to 2 turns, this will allow starting and final adjustment. Genes idea does work well when you dont have compressed air available or are not confident to play with the mixture screw Tony
Thanks Tony, Here's what I did. I followed Gene's instructions and let it have three backfires. then I put the wires in their proper places and went for a spin. Still stopped upon slowdown. So I pulled the spare carb out out the cabinet and took its low speed jet out for familiarization. Then I took off the one on the car and blew the grit out with my mouth. At least I thought I saw a particle fly by my nose. Then I thought, why not? So I installed the other carb and took it for a ride. It appears to run better than the other one. I think it is a newer model. It is a bit different.
Yes it is a newer model. As long as the throttle linkage will fit and work with the offset (versus original straight) throttle arm then it should work well. Likely will get a tad bit better gas mileage as well (maybe 1-2 mpg).
That carb was on the engine I got from a man who rodded his. He said he was tired of running around at 40 mph. I got the entire drivetrain including the wheels. He had called later offering the spare tire covers as they were too narrow for his tires. Here is his car.
It would be nice to ID it year wise in the event that you will need parts for it in the future.. There were many improvements made in the 1941-1948 version. That version has the tube under the choke that runs at an angle.
It would be nice to ID it year wise in the event that you will need parts for it in the future.. There were many improvements made in the 1941-1948 version. That version has the tube under the choke that runs at an angle.
We did back in 2011 when I had posted both asking which would be more appropriate. I'll try and find the thread, if not, I'll get the numbers off it.
My '35 Std did exactly the same thing about two years ago. I tried everything; dis assembled the carb twice, had the fuel tank cleaned, replaced the fuel line from the tank to the carb, rebuilt the fuel pump, even tried my spare carb, with no change or improvement! s a final thought, I bought the A/C glass bowl fuel filter from the Filling Station and installed it about six inches before the carburetor! It has not stalled since! After about two hundred miles, I removed the filter and carefully opened it up for inspection, but I found nothing! I installed a new filter, and the car has not stalled since! This may or may not help you. but it sure solved the problem for me! I have no explaination of why it worked, but it did! Phil Lipton I was running out of things to try, and this was my last thing! Good luck!
My '35 Std did exactly the same thing about two years ago. I tried everything; dis assembled the carb twice, had the fuel tank cleaned, replaced the fuel line from the tank to the carb, rebuilt the fuel pump, even tried my spare carb, with no change or improvement! s a final thought, I bought the A/C glass bowl fuel filter from the Filling Station and installed it about six inches before the carburetor! It has not stalled since! After about two hundred miles, I removed the filter and carefully opened it up for inspection, but I found nothing! I installed a new filter, and the car has not stalled since! This may or may not help you. but it sure solved the problem for me! I have no explaination of why it worked, but it did! Phil Lipton I was running out of things to try, and this was my last thing! Good luck!
Last year I had taken the top and the side of the engine apart to change the lifters and valve springs and for some reason I had removed the filter. Now I realize that this stalling began as I was nearing the bottom of the tank. So the filter is going back in. Thanks.
Yes it is a newer model. As long as the throttle linkage will fit and work with the offset (versus original straight) throttle arm then it should work well. Likely will get a tad bit better gas mileage as well (maybe 1-2 mpg).
Changed the throttle cable from A to B and removed the bracket from the base of the carb. Doesn't seem to be any interference now.
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