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Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 100
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 100 |
While changing the oil on my 1937 MD I stripped the threads of the drain plug and while trying to back it out part of the pan thread fell into the pan--thus began a major job getting the pan off so I could retrieve the part and get a new plug installed. So far, so good--until the pan would not drop straight down, I got it free from the block, removed the cross member that holds the rear motor mounts but the pan was still wedged by the front motor mounts and sheet metal in front of the fly wheel. By using a long screwdriver I was able to pry the sheet metal enough to get the pan free. I am fairly confident that I can get the side gaskets in place but not so sure about the end pieces as I manipulate the pan back up. Any suggestions?
Thrasher
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701 Likes: 141
ChatMaster - 25,000
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ChatMaster - 25,000
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Posts: 30,701 Likes: 141 |
The sheet metal must be removed. That is the fly wheel cover and it's extension. You will never get the gaskets in place correctly any other way,
Correct was is to make 4 1/4" studs for guiding pan in place and help to position the side gaskets to the block. I use grease to hold the side gaskets to the block. Then it is easier if you pre-bend the end corks (the old Chevrolet gaskets came them them pre bent) and get the end gaskets in place LAST. You can use a drop of sealer where the end gaskets but against the tab on the end of the pan gasket.
Gene Schneider
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Joined: May 2002
Posts: 6,149 Likes: 42
ChatMaster - 6,000
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ChatMaster - 6,000
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I am surprised you removed the pan without damaging the clutch cover, it is only an extra 8 or 9 screws (or 5 minutes). Tony
1938 1/2 ton Hope to drive it before I retire
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Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 100
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 100 |
You and Gene are right, I just took another look and there are two screws holding the sheet metal, clear as can be! I just had it in my mind that it was behind the flywheel and didn't look any closer! Once I get the pan cleaned and repaired I can start getting things back together. Your help was awesome and I really appreciate it--I don't think I would tackle some of these issues if you weren't there to get me back on track.
Thrasher
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Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 100
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 100 |
So my 1937 md oil pan has been repaired and cleaned up. Regarding the oil tubes that feed the dippers, I would like to be sure they are clear and open--is forcing water through them better than compressed air?
Thrasher
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Joined: May 2002
Posts: 6,149 Likes: 42
ChatMaster - 6,000
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ChatMaster - 6,000
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Posts: 6,149 Likes: 42 |
water will give you a visual indication of the flow path but keep the pressure similar to expected oil pressure or the flow will be different. Tony
1938 1/2 ton Hope to drive it before I retire
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701 Likes: 141
ChatMaster - 25,000
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ChatMaster - 25,000
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Posts: 30,701 Likes: 141 |
I use a garden hose with low water pressure. Place hose o the center main feed pipe. Keep the pan level as it would be when on the engine. You can see if one of the squirters is off by looking at where the stream hits the side of the pan. It is kind of easy to figure out once you do it.
Gene Schneider
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Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 100
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 100 |
Makes sense, thanks for helping me understand the process.
Thrasher
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