VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1929-1932 Electric Fuel Pump

My '32 often sits for two or three weeks. When I go to start it I often have to crank and crank it to pump the fuel up to the carburetor or spray starter fluid in the carburetor to get it to start. I'm considering adding an electric fuel pump just to start the engine. What is the traditional wisdom on this? If it's a good idea, what should be the pump pressure range? Will the electric pump pump fuel through the OME mechanical pump?

Have you had the fuel pump rebuilt? My 32 sat from November to April and still started without boosting the battery or priming the carb. You should not need an electric pump .

My 52 is the same. I just give it a squirt of starter fluid and i am on my way. I raced cars for years and electric fuel pumps were outlawed because of a danger. If you are in an accident and there is a fire, the pump tends to keep running putting more fuel on the fire. Just my two cents worth. If I drive the 52 once or twice a week, it starts right up.

I recommend leaving it as it is. I expect to have to crank my cars for 20 seconds or so if they've been idle for more than a week or two. No problem, especially since you know to expect it. Adding the electric pump just adds one more thing to go wrong, in my opinion.

All the Best, Chip

The entire engine was just rebuilt including everything EXCEPT the fuel pump (new water pump, rebuilt carburetor, distributor, generator.) Twice now the engine has completely died while running and refused to restart. Also, I really don't like grinding and grinding on the starter to pump fuel up to the carburetor when it sits for weeks. I really don't like using starter fluid either but I have many times. I have four old Chevies - 32, 55, 56 and a 59. ALL of them suffer the same issue when they sit for more than a week. The 56 Nomad with the 265 is the worst. It commonly takes five minutes or more to start it after a week. If I start it every day it fires right up. I put an in-line electric pump on my 59 Apache wired off the ignition with a toggle switch. It can sit for a month. I flip on the toggle and wait three to four seconds and hit the starter button. It starts every time. Then I turn the toggle off and run on the mechanical pump. Wired through the ignition I can't accidently leave it on. With the toggle turned off it won't continue to pump in an accident.

I'm going to rebuild my mechanical pump on the 32 and see if that solve my problem. If it doesn't I'm going to add an in-line electric pump like the Apache.

I need to add that I appreciate and respect all the input from you guys. I realize I sound like that teenage kid that asks for advice and then does what the hell he wants anyway. Please accept my sincere gratitude for your knowledge and experience. I'm not a mechanic - just an old Chevy lover.

I will let you know if rebuilding the fuel pump fixes my problem.

When all your vehicles suffer from the same problem, I suspect the gas is evaporating from the carburetors and maybe draining back toward the gas tank. Since the carburetors have openings to the atmosphere the gas can leave. If the valves in the fuel pump don't seal completely then the fuel can flow back. If they do seal gas can't evaporate from the enclosed gas line so at least only refilling the carburetor bow would be required. BTW the problem should be worse in the summer than winter (both days in So. Fla.)

Chipper, you're exactly correct. There used to be a gentleman here who specialized in old cars. He designed and built an in-line check valve to prevent the drain back. It seemed to work very well. Unfortunately he no longer has the valves. You're also right about South Florida. Also, I keep my cars in an unairconditioned warehouse. It can get extremely hot in the middle of the afternoon.

My 1951 Chevrolet does the exact same thing. If I start it every day or every two days it fires right up. If the car sits for more than a week I have to use starting fluid. The gas in the float bowl is evaporating within about a week. I have installed a Carter W1 on the car as a test (the correct carburetor is a Rochester) and it does the same thing with that carb. as well. The correct Rochester carb. that is on the car now is new old stock right out of the box, and it had the same gas evaporation problem right from the beginning. The problem is even more pronounced with that stupid Ethanol.

I agree with all the above. Especially the ethanol. I'm considering running nothing but Rec90 in my old cars. It may not be a fix but seems like it certainly would help. What's the general concensus on Rec90?

As the fuel inlet valve is In the top of the carburetor, the only way the carburetor is going to drain back into the tank is if you park the vehicle upside down

The fuel evaporates: http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Troubleshooting.htm#Hardstartcold

As far as electric fuel pumps are concerned...................................BE CAREFUL!

http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Electric_fuel_pumps_and_old_cars.htm

Please note the differences in function from mechanical pump to electric pump in the article.

As to Rec90:

You do NOT need the octane in your 1932 (and probably not in the other vehicles you listed, unless they are high performance). The higher the octane, the more initial timing and compression is required to burn ALL of the fuel. So you MIGHT spend more at the pump AND LOSE power and fuel economy due to an incomplete burn of the fuel. Plus, while the Rec90 is ethanol-free (fiberglass boat fuel tanks do NOT like ethanol), other additives are present that will probably have the same effect as E-10 on evaporation. Only trial will give you an exact answer.

Jon.

Jon, that was some very interesting reading and good information. Thank you. As for the Rec90, I guess we needs some Rec87.

Jon, that may explain it. I've been parking the car upside down because the oil leak is so bad. Now that I've had the engine rebuild I guess I should store it right-side-up.

Just to clarify what I meant. The gas will evaporate from the carburetor. So there is no need to invert the car. It will not leak from the carburetor back to the tank. It may leak into the manifold or on the outside of the carburetor if the seals are not 100%. Many will also leak a little past the throttle shaft, a subject discussed several times.

The gas will drain back to the tank from the lines that are above the fuel level in the gas tank if the valves in the fuel pump are not completely sealed. Those are one way valves and should seal against flow back. However often those valves seal enough to pump fuel from the tank but not well enough to prevent back flow. If they leak a lot the pump may not provide enough fuel flow at high engine speeds or even pump at all. Both electric and mechanical pumps should prevent back flow if in perfect operating condition.

James - paint it BRG, and then the oil leaks are acceptable!

I agree with Chipper. My '48 was doing that. I replaced the fuel pump and now it starts right up.

James - paint it BRG, and then the oil leaks are acceptable! 


Jon, if I painted BRG I'll have to deal with all the electrical issues. I'll keep the fuel issues.

Now that's funny!