VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1929-1932 '32 clutch fork and pedal lever hole size

I have a new clutch fork to use as I put my '32 chassis together. The hole in the lever attached to the only clutch pedal that I have has worn and become enlarged over the years. Does anyone know what the clearance between the clutch fork and hole should be?

I am planning to either make a delrin bushing to put in the hole, or make a delrin sleeve to go over the end of the fork. I figure that I can eliminate a wear point and cut down on a possible rattle.

As long as I'm in this area, is there a way to visually tell if the carbon throw out bearing is good or bad? New ones are readily available, and not that expensive, but I like using what I have, it it is good. What I don't like is having to take something like this apart again after getting that torque tube and transmission in place. Does the conventional wisdom say just replace the bearing now and be done with it?

Thanks. Tom

The bearing carbon should have two slots about 1/8" deep. If much less than that then replace it. I can get you a measurement in the AM if desired.

Yes.

Thanks for the replies. I had a post all keyed in on 7/5, but it disappeared. (I probably didn't hit "post reply"! ). Anyway, I measured the bearing I was planning to use and the slots were .125 to .131. Looks like that one is on the bottom end of useable. I found another one in my stash that looks close to new and has slots between .176 and .183.

I've been mixing and matching stuff since I bought this car. Now that casting dates have been explained to me, I've been able to get engine and bell housing and transmission to mate up.

This post about the throw out bearing caused me to look closer at the plate the throw out bearing contacts and I realized that the one I had installed was thicker than the 15/16ths one called for. That leads to the next question --- what surface should I be shooting for on that plate? Should it be as close to a mirror finish as I can get? I have a couple plates that seem kind of rough and I would think that that would wear the carbon bearing quicker. If I have to stick them in the lathe to get the correct thickness anyway, I can then get any surface I want.

Thanks. Tom

The T/O bearing I have that I believe is NOS measures about the same .175-.180. The mating plate should have a casting number on it and that would help to determine the correct part. If you have one thicker than original it may be from a non OEM make and possibly may not operate correctly. In addition to a smooth surface for the T/O bearing the lever contact area needs to mate correctly with the clutch cover fingers. Is your clutch cover made by Chevrolet ? Mixing parts from different vendors could cause problems.

I found and used part number 836632 (correct for '32 to '34) for the bearing plate. I stuck it in the lathe and used a dial indicator to get it centered and just took a couple of thousandths off to get a smooth surface.

Another question in this area --- In mounting the brake and clutch pedal assembly, what is the third threaded hole in the bell housing for? Two are obviously for the bracket that holds the shaft and I am kind of assuming that the third hole is for a bolt that goes through the end of the shaft and keeps the shaft from moving around. Is there a tubular spacer between the shaft and the bell Housing? It just looks kind of strange with that long skinny bolt out there.

Thanks. Tom

The bolts that hold the pedal shaft are triangular pattern. Two hold the bracket that is the major support and the third holds the shaft from moving as you suspected.