VCCA Home Forums GENERAL DISCUSSION New User Forum Noise lifters

My lifters are very noise when I first start my 216 1951. Later As I run they get quiter, but noise again as I press down on the throttle. I have seen and heard a few videos some make noise others don't. What can be done about this?

Have you adjusted the valves to the proper gap? Also run the engine 15 minutes at operating temperature before you set them.

The 216 engine has solid valve lifters and they will make some noise during the warm-up period but noise will lessen after a half hour (or less) of driving. The lifters require adjusting ever so often, usually about every 5000 to 10000 miles. Also make sure the rocker arms are getting oil. The adjustment is made by sliding a feeler gauge between the top of the valve stem and rocker arm with the engine running at a slow idle. The proper feeler gauge to use is .006" on the intake valve and .014" on the exhaust. The exhaust valves are at a slight angle where as the intakes are sraight up and down.

Thanks for the info, v very helpful!

To add to Gene's excellent advice, I would suggest you use a box-end wrench and a fairly wide-blade screwdriver for loosening the nut on the adjusting screw. As Gene said, you should have the engine warmed up and RUNNING at idle speed. If you put the screwdriver through the end of the wrench you'll find it easier to get the blade of the screwdriver into that bouncing slot on the adjusting screw. Then, holding the screwdriver in one hand, slide the box wrench down the screwdriver onto the adjusting nut and loosen it, put the screwdriver down and use the feeler gauge and make any adjustment, then put the screwdriver through the box wrench and tighten the nut. The key here is to not let the box wrench bounce off the nut. Once you've done one, you'll have the hang of it! Good luck!!

Great help, thanks for replying!

I'd also recommend that you have a new valve cover gasket on hand to replace the old one after you are satisfied with your adjustments.

Good luck, Mike

I don't know how you would make the adjustment after you put the screwdriver down. You use it to make the adjustment, then tighten the nut.

Yep! Fingers got ahead of my brain there! I was trying to say that after loosening the nut slide the wrench up off the screwdriver (takes some nimble finger work), pick up the feeler gauge and measure the gap Turn the screwdriver whichever way is necessary to get the correct gap. Then put down the feeler gauge, pick up the wrench and slide it back down the screwdriver and tighten the nut.
I have also just let go of the wrench after loosening the nut and let it bounce with the movement as it can't go anywhere as long as the screwdriver remains in the slot.

For 1941 Special Deluxe (SD) there is a tool for adjusting the rocker arm gap.

The adjustments cited above by others is sufficient for Master Deluxe (MD) models and all other Chevrolets with adjustable rockers. You deserve the headache you surely get by merely using a feeler gauge,wrench and a short, slotted screwdriver. Do too!

As to the noise, there is an after market blanket that is made for the SD. It goes above the rockers under the valve cover. MD owners must suffer the rattling without benefit of this noise dampening effect. You could cut out a piece of the missuses grandma made quilt though. It will work well and the missus will never miss it. Keep the rest of the quilt hidden in the garage and use it as you need to replace the old oil laden piece under the valve cover. Remember the key here when the missus asks whether you have seen her grandmother's quilt: Deny, Deny, Deny. Yep!

As you MD owners clack along remember that you may be perceived to be thrifty but not very discriminating in your choice of ride. Sort of like being satisfied with a tin of sardines when you could have had caviar. You know.

Charlie

BTW: Our major old Chevrolet supply stores sell the adjusting tool. Save up to purchase one. Sell a pig, It fits SDs only. Yep!

I know this thread is almost a year old but I was doing a search on rocker arm adjustment (looking for an easier way) and this caught my eye.

Charlie, is it true there is a tool for adjusting the rocker arm gap for the 41 Special Deluxe? If so, where can I get one? Checked Chevs of the 40s and The Filling Station - no mention of one. I don't relish the idea of buying a new set of feeler gauges and then trying to use them, a wrench and a screwdriver at the same time while my engine is running.

BJ,

Go here.

Charlie

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...w=rocker+arm+adjusting+tool&_sacat=0

Ah, man. I was hoping I could do it with the engine not running. Oh, well. At least this combines two tools into one.

It can be done. Just warm the engine as said above, remove valve cover and with #1 at top dead center set #1 exhaust and intake, 2 intake, 3 exhaust, 4 intake, 5 exhaust. Then with #6 at top dead center set 6 intake and 6 exhaust,5 intake, 4 exhaust,3 intake and 2 exhaust. This is much faster than one at a time.

I lack the fine motor skills (clumsy) to adjust a running engine so I do as chevy1937 recommends. After taking a 1/2 hour ride I make my adjustments with the car NOT running. Works for me. Also If you are slow just adjust half the valves and rewarm up the engine.

It is one thing for a mechanic familiar with the adjustment to do it on a running engine, its another for someone doing it once every 5 years or more.

Good luck, Mike

With the engine off, I would assume you have to manually turn the engine to each cylinder one at a time until both of its valves are closed, correct? Can you adjust two cylinders at the same time on a straight six? (Probably not but thought I'd ask.)

You can indeed do more than one cylinder at once.
When some cylinders have the valves open, the others will be fully closed. You can just turn the crank, watch the valve train and just judge when the lifters are not riding on the lobe.
Maybe pass over everything twice just to double check.

Yep, I realized a few minutes after that post that I was overthinking it. Any rocker arm with play in it will indicate that the valve is closed or headed to open. So, run the engine 30 minutes or so to warm up, shut down, adjust any arms with play, repeat with other arms, and then recheck everything.

Judging by the thickness of the feeler gauges, my rocker arms haven't been adjusted in a coon's age. Would explain why the engine rattles like a diesel.

Is it getting good oiling to the rocker arms ...if not will wear fast and get noisey.

Yep. When I took the whole assembly off to put the new arm on, I cleaned everything and made sure all the oiler holes were open in case that's what caused the break. With the engine running, I can see oil dripping along the whole length.

Rocker arms all adjusted now. Thanks, everyone! Ran the feeler gauges through with engine running a couple/three times and then as a final check. Everything snug but not too snug. Still clacks a little but way less then before - I guess if it didn't clack some it wouldn't be an old engine with mechanical lifters.

Nice! That was quick once you got rolling. Always nice to be able to check it a few times like that...

I explained above how to do it with engine in two positions. Number one up and number six up.

For anyone like me who is doing this for the first time, here's what I did. Feel free to add or suggest anything. I always love step-by-step instructions (I'm a former technical writer).

1. First, make a "map" of the intake (I) and exhaust (E) valves from front of engine to back. On mine (216 inline 6) it's the same forward and back, and goes: E I I E E I I E E I I E. Easy to check comparing to your intake, exhaust manifolds.
2. Run the engine for 30 minutes to get it up to temperature (about 180 on mine) and all rods, lifters, arms, etc. expanded. Have a beer or two while waiting but no more.
3. Turn off engine.
4. Use the feeler gauge (.006 for Intake, .013 for exhaust on mine) and check each that you can. If valve is open, you wont be able to slide the gauge in (rocker is pressing on it). Make adjustments on the ones you can measure.
5. Do a quick crank or two on the engine to move the valves.
6. Repeat step 4 and then step 5 and step 4 again until all clearances have been checked and adjusted.
7. Start engine and run feeler gauges between moving rocker arms and valve stems, feeling for some constant resistance. Make note of any you cannot insert feeler into (too little space) or where the feeler slides in too easily (too much space). Also note if a rocker/valve stem you insert a feeler into causes the "clicking" to suddenly diminish. This is a way-too-loose rocker arm.
8. Stop engine and crank until "problem" arms/valves have play (valves are closed so arm has play) and adjust again.
9. Repeat steps 7 and 8 until satisfied all rocker arm-to-valve stem clearances are within tolerance (check your service manual - with the Chevy 216, see step 4).
10. Repeat step 7 and steps 8 and 9 as necessary until you can sleep at night without wondering if everything is correct.

For the record, I'm going to bed tonight without worrying about my rocker arms.

You can do them in 2 groups of 6 turning the crank 1 full revolution but I prefer to do each cylinder in sequence turning the crank between adjusting each pair/cylinder.
Tony