I am replacing the bushing and shackles on the rear of my 38 Master. Yesterday I removed and replaced one of the rear bushings in the rear spring hanger and today I will do the other one. My purpose for this post is to document the hardware I used and by doing so, maybe save someone else some time. I used a length of 5/8 x 11 threaded rod. This appeared to be a near match with the bushing internal thread. To provide the pushing force I used a slim pipe nipple that barely slipped over the threaded rod and two nuts locked together on that end. On the other end I used a large pipe bushing for the bushing to slide through and a washer and nut. The old bushing came out very smoothly and the installation of the new one went well too. It took quite a bit of torque on the end of a large wrench but it worked flawlessly.
My 1951 1 Ton is now on the road! My 38 Master 4 Door is also now on the road .
I'm going to be doing all my bushings this summer so have been watching these threads.
I'm having my frame sandblasted while the body is off so I'm wondering if the lack of body weight will cause me difficulty trying to work with the leaf springs when the only weight on them is the frame?
1938 Canadian Pontiac Business Coupe (aka a 1938 Chevy Coupe with Pontiac shaped front sheet metal - almost all Chevy!) 1975 4-speed L82 Vette
In my experience that should not be a problem. The trick with a leaf spring is that there is a "neutral" position that does not put any load on either pivot.
The simple technique I use is to support the frame high enough off the ground that the axle is hanging under its own weight. Then I put a jack under the center of the axle and start lifting it. After a few pumps on the jack you can almost see the spring "relax" in its free position. The shackles will be loose. Then I can work on one end of a spring at a time.
I used this method to replace the front bushings on the rear springs as well as remove, clean, and reinstall the shackles with new seals on the rear axle. It also worked very well when I removed and re-installed the front axle when I replaced the kingpins.
Thanks Rusty. I was picturing naked frame and naked springs and even being able to flip the frame over and work from above but it might help reinstalling the axles before the springs. Easier to find the neutral point with the weight of axles possibly.
1938 Canadian Pontiac Business Coupe (aka a 1938 Chevy Coupe with Pontiac shaped front sheet metal - almost all Chevy!) 1975 4-speed L82 Vette
b. Select la suitable old, just small enough to clear the "eye" and long socket to go most of the way through. Kiss the socket goodbye cause it ain't coming back.
c. Place the spring eye on a suitable surface with the eye hanging just off the edge.
c. Spray the eye threaded element with Blaster.
d. Take a large ballpeen hammer and have some fun. It won't start easy but will get easier as you go.
Simple for simple folk, and it works for me.
As to fastening it to the frame, just get a piece of two by four and put it between the shackle and the frame. Tthe end of the spring can be jacked within easy attachment.
All the other methods are for worry-warts and not for real men. Yeap!
Good luck,
Charlie
BTW: My above described method is superior to all others and is faster with the same stinkin results with no screwing around. It helps to stand on the spring as you pound the bushing out and to go fly solo. Anyone around will think you're nuts and ruin you day with their wee bit of advice. Will too!
Tim, I just finished replacing the rear springs, all the bushings and shackles. My new springs had a larger arch at rest than the old worn springs. I ended up attaching the front hinge first, then the shackles. The car was supported from the frame with jack stands. I used a small jack under the spring to bring it up into position. I also used a jack stand to support the side of the axle in a neutral position. I would suggest using a puller to remove and install the bushings in the rear hanger on the frame. I don't think it would be wise to beat on it with a big hammer. One spring had a very small twist to it and required some persuasion with a large monkey wrench to get the shackle pins in.
My 1951 1 Ton is now on the road! My 38 Master 4 Door is also now on the road .
Strike one, first attempt to change bushings. I couldn't get the bolt out, its as though it is welded/rusted to the old bushing. I am surprised that there were no lock washers or cotter pins holding the leaf spring nut on. I thought the bushing frame assembly was threaded so the bolt can go through bracket the secure with a nut. Any suggestions on how i might remove the bolt from existing bushing? Thank you Michael
On my 1/2 ton the shackle pins that swing are threaded into the bush with plates to hold them in place and fixed are threaded into the chassis bracket with a lock nut. Both bushes are fitted and replaced by the same method once the pins are removed. I have seen some rubber bushes vulcanized between metal sleeves, again the same method to remove and replace though a smaller diameter bolt may be needed. Tony
Thanks for the response. I thought the plate or plates might be threaded, but if they are my plate is stripped or the bolt is stripped. Might take her to a shop and have them install instead. It bothers me to pay someone to do a job I know I can do if i knew what to do. I can't imagine i am the only one in history to change the rear leaf spring bushings on a 38 passenger car. Can anyone confirm on a 38 passenger car whether the rear leaf spring plates are threaded where the bushing bolt goes through? Thank you Michael 38 Town Sedan
The side plates on the shackles are bolted together with a larger carriage bolt and nut. The pins are tapered as is the hole in the shackle they go into so when the carriage bolt is tightened they are locked in place. The pins and the hole is not threaded. The pins are threaded into the bushing that is pressed into the spring eye.
We may be talking about two or three different things. Front of spring, spring attachment to axel or rear of spring. Front, good luck, it’s a bear to get the bolt out. At axel, same thing. The rear, not so bad, take out the carriage bolt between plates, pry off plates after removing grease fittings, screw out pins, may have to put grease fitting back in to turn. Hopefully the bushings are still good and tight or you will need to press them out and new ones in. Also don’t forget to put rubber or cork gaskets behind the plates or grease will go everywhere.
I didn't detail my effort with those bolts in your photo. I removed those with a u joint press. Here is a link to the tool. u joint press The main problem with mine is that they were stuck in the cast spring hanger. I would not beat on that spring hanger. Some penetrating fluid will help the process.
My 1951 1 Ton is now on the road! My 38 Master 4 Door is also now on the road .
Your are saying front as in fwd of leaf spring on the rear leaf springs right? I sprayed PB Blaster all over the assembly and let it soak for an hour, I was able to remove the nut and the bolt rotated with much resistance as did the bushing as though they were rusted together. I thought the plate where the bolt passes through might be threaded, but the nut keeps spinning without coming out. I did try to force the bolt out with my 3lb hammer, but didnt budge.
That is the front bushing on the rear leaf. To give you an idea of the tool, mine takes a 15/16" socket. On one side I was probably applying well over 120 ft/lbs but the other side was easier. I used the screw towards the inside of the car. When the tool reached the hanger I inserted a bolt to push the bolt through.
My 1951 1 Ton is now on the road! My 38 Master 4 Door is also now on the road .
Mine is 3/4 outside and 11/16 inside. I still had 1/2" of bolt turning without budging. Is the shackle plate threaded or should i be able to drive the bolt out with enough force? The bolt is welded to the inner busing once the bushing wore away leaving only metal to metal
The 15/16" I was referring to is the socket required to use the tool. It is very heavy duty. There are no threads in the front spring hanger, just a hole on each side through which the bolt is inserted.
My 1951 1 Ton is now on the road! My 38 Master 4 Door is also now on the road .
Good to know, so given enough force the bolt should push through. I guess i need to apply more PB Blaster and let it sit for a few days. The bolt is definitely rusted to the inner bushing. The u joint tool is expensive $152.
Your use of the word shackle is what confuesd things. The shackle is at the rear of the rear spring. It is a spring hanger up front.. I would bet just the inside metal casing is turning and the outer metal casing is rusted tight to the spring. All will need to be removed. With out a torch or super heavy press I doubt it can be removed.
