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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 173
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 173 |
1953 Chevrolet 3100 Series brake lines ---- Hi folks, I am trying to remove the brake lines from this truck, so that I can replace them. I got to the cross member that goes under the cab... there is a brake line there with a 7/16 fitting on it... and it is held on by these two large fasteners, which I think are large clutch heads? I dunno, been awhile since I messed with those. Do they screw out or not? Do any of you know what size it is? I need to get a proper tool to take it off so I can get the brake line off. This is the fastener I am referring to : image of fastener in questionthe folder of brake line photos : album of 1953 Chevrolet 3100 Series - brake line photosThanks folks. -Woog
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 10,379 Likes: 1
Technical Advisor ChatMaster - 10,000
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Technical Advisor ChatMaster - 10,000
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 10,379 Likes: 1 |
You are looking at a clutch head screw which requires a special screwdriver. 
RAY Chevradioman http://www.vccacolumbiariverregion.org/1925 Superior K Roadster 1928 Convertible, Sport, Cabriolet 1933 Eagle, Coupe 1941 Master Deluxe 5-Passenger Coupe 1950 Styleline Deluxe 4-Door Sedan 1950 Styleline Deluxe Convertible 2002 Pontiac, Montana, Passenger Van 2014 Impala, 4-Door Sedan, White Diamond, LTZ 2017 Silverado, Double Cab, Z71, 4X4, White, Standard Bed, LTZ If you need a shoulder to cry on, pull off to the side of the road. Death is the number 1 killer in the world.
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 173
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 173 |
Yep, I thought it was a clutch head. I've messed with the smaller ones in the interior before.
Does anyone know what size this one is?
I need to find a tool to take it off, thanks.
-W
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Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,478
ChatMaster - 1,000
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ChatMaster - 1,000
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,478 |
Take a measurement across the top of the entire bolt head. Off to the auto parts and tell the counterman what you have. He should be able to come up with the correct ratchet, impact, or screw driver for you. You also might use a piece of paper and pencil. Rub the pencil cross the hole with the paper in place to get a "rubbing" of the clutch head hole. Match that with the end of the screw driver at the store.
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 173
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 173 |
Take a measurement across the top of the entire bolt head. Off to the auto parts and tell the counterman what you have. He should be able to come up with the correct ratchet, impact, or screw driver for you. You also might use a piece of paper and pencil. Rub the pencil cross the hole with the paper in place to get a "rubbing" of the clutch head hole. Match that with the end of the screw driver at the store. There is an idea... thanks for the tip. From what I have read, been told and researched, there are usually a set of bits you can buy of four sizes for the clutch head. Thanks for the help folks. -W
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Joined: May 2002
Posts: 6,149 Likes: 42
ChatMaster - 6,000
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ChatMaster - 6,000
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You have good information there and those brake lines do need to be retired quickly,The Filling Station stocked the set of tips for them several years ago when I got mine but so far they havent been used. Tony
1938 1/2 ton Hope to drive it before I retire
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 418
Backyard Mechanic
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Backyard Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 418 |
Some years ago, I bought a set of 4 clutch head screw drivers from my local Ace hardware store. Just use Google Images and you'll find all sorts of options, from screwdrivers to socket types...once you have a set, you'll be amazed how handy they are to have around. Bob
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Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,478
ChatMaster - 1,000
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ChatMaster - 1,000
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Mine were rusted in place so bad that I could not get them out. I found out that using a lubricant for loosening screws/bolts really helps. Soak for a day or two (this takes extreme patience) and then tighten and loosen. Re-do it again several times. Tighten and then loosen. Place the screw driver in position and tap on it with a hammer. Then try to apply pressure tighten and loosen. [As a very last resort, use a small vice grip pliers to clamp on the screw head. Use this with the screw driver in combination. It will most likely destroy the screw head. A new one will have to be used. (Or you may have to drill it out.)]
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 173
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 173 |
Hi folks... first off, thank you for all of the replies and tips! bobalouie - yep, I remember going to a hardware store to get the smaller one many years ago, but I did not have any luck this time... and for some reason the tool guys weren't in the tool section at my 'good hardware' store. Weird. so I have now a set of clutch head drives now that fit my 3/8 drive ratchet, very handy. For anyone that may come in here in the future, there is a square bolt on the inside of the cross member that you will have to hold to get it loose. Now my problem is this, the brake line in question is the one that runs along the backside of the cross member that goes under the transmission between the frame rails... and it goes into the back of the master cylinder : brake line - back of master cylinderNow, I had my brake line wrench on there and tried the righty-tightey, lefty loosey action, but it didn't budge. Is there a trick to getting it off? I sprayed some pb blaster on there and I will try later but thought I'd come in and ask some other folks for tips and tricks. also, added some more brake line photos to the folder here, same the one linked in the original post : album of 1953 Chevrolet 3100 Series - brake line photosThanks. -Woog
Last edited by Woogeroo; 05/04/18 08:22 PM.
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Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,294
ChatMaster - 1,000
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ChatMaster - 1,000
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May have to cut the line and hold the brz. part and take the whole thing apart.
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Joined: May 2002
Posts: 6,149 Likes: 42
ChatMaster - 6,000
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ChatMaster - 6,000
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 6,149 Likes: 42 |
I have had success undoing rusted nuts and bolts or pipe fittings by tapping the outside with a hammer especially while gently turning the nut. Doesnt always work but while you dont get over energetic with the hammer does no harm. Tony
1938 1/2 ton Hope to drive it before I retire
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Joined: Jan 2009
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ChatMaster - 750
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ChatMaster - 750
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 935 Likes: 12 |
I have had very good luck using mixture of 50% ATF and 50% acetone on rusted (frozen) bolts/nuts. The longer you keep it soaked with this the better. I got this tip several years ago here on the chat site. The lightly tapping with hammer while attempting to loosen certainly helps in my humble opinion.
Good Luck:
Dick
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 4,024 Likes: 99
ChatMaster - 4,000
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ChatMaster - 4,000
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I agree that your best approach is to cut the line as close to the tube fitting at you can. Then you can put a box end wrench on the larger bolt head and a 6 point socket on the tube fitting. Then do all the usual tricks (rust dissolvers, rocking things back and forth, hammer, encouraging words, etc.)
Line wrenches work well in normal situations. However they tend to flex open and round the fitting when you really start putting load on them.
Rusty
VCCA #44680
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Joined: May 2002
Posts: 6,149 Likes: 42
ChatMaster - 6,000
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ChatMaster - 6,000
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 6,149 Likes: 42 |
With the pipe wrench if they start to open under pressure clamp a pair of locking pliers to the jaws, when you get the 1st movement the locking pliers can be removed. This does make the wrench rather bulky though but does leave the pipe reusable, if you are replacing the pipe the cut and a full box wrench (preferably a 6 point) certainly works. Tony
1938 1/2 ton Hope to drive it before I retire
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