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Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 32
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 32 |
I was reading one of your old threads and you were recommending 30w or 10w30. My father always ran non detergent 30w as he was convinced if he put in a detergent oil the engine would start to use oil. What is your current recomendation?
Last edited by DMD; 03/30/18 03:54 PM.
David Duff
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Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 7,472 Likes: 26
ChatMaster - 7,000
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ChatMaster - 7,000
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 7,472 Likes: 26 |
Most all recommend 10-30 detergent oil for their old cars, especially if it has been rebuilt and the rebuild included complete cleaning. Detergent oil will hold contaminants in suspension and they will be removed by a filter and regular oil change intervals. Non-detergent oil allows the contaminants to fall out and they settle wherever the oil sits-in the pan and galleys etc. Some contaminants will be removed with oil changes but also some will remain and the deposits will build-: ie-sludge and eventually cause problems such as plugged oil drain passages. There are several post on the subject so perhaps you will want to search further.
Steve D
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Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 129 Likes: 5
Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 129 Likes: 5 |
The key word is oil filter. Ypur 1926 doesn't have one. I use Penrite Shelsey light if its available in the US. Its a low detergent sae30 oil designed for vintage engines. High detergent oils will keep dirt in suspension and circulate through motor and bearings.
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Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 58
Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 58 |
I just rebuilt my 1926 engine and can't decide what oil to use. Everything that moves is new. Being an aircraft mechanic we always use non-detergent oil for the first 50 hours or so and then switch to multi-viscosity detergent oil. Does that sound about right for the new/old engine?
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701 Likes: 141
ChatMaster - 25,000
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ChatMaster - 25,000
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701 Likes: 141 |
After a rebuild is when it is important to used a good detergent oil. Not for the detergency but the other additives that protect the close fitting parts during break-in.
In 1955 Chevrolet engines, both the 6 and V-8 had oil consumption problems. They said the better oils were too good and did not allow the rings to seat. After some lubrication problems they changed their tune and and recommended good #20 or 10W-30 oils....and in 1957 the factory fill of oil had a break-in additive (Zink) for break-in protection and that was to be used for the first 1000 miles. Prior to that it was recommended to change at 500 miles.....The factory fill was a straight #10 oil.
Gene Schneider
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Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 58
Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 58 |
Thanks very much. I hope to run it for the first time today or tomorrow.
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