VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - GENERAL Mechanical - Engine, Trans, etc Shelf Life of Rebuilt Engine

I have a machine shop rebuilt 41 216 engine (with brand new head) for the project 41. I've had it for about 14-15 years now the best of my recollection. It has been in my garage and covered since I went an got it from Nashville, TN. It has been plugged up so that excess air wouldn't get in it but over time I think enough has entered that maybe it should be took apart and cleaned up before use.

It may be just fine if I spray some WD-40 in the spark plug holes, libererally use some Marval Mystery Oil on the rockers and phush rods and a little in the spark plug holes before turning it by hand and wating a few days before turning. It is sitting on a engine mount. And then just hope for the best.

I figure it would cost about 400 for a new gasket and for the machine shop here to take it apart and just clean up any thing amiss. A little more if I have hardened seats installed for the valves.

Before I would disassemble the engine myself and put everything back together, I'd spend the bucks and let the machine shop do the job.

I'd like some opinions as to what you would recommend. Remember it has not been completely air-tiight all these years since rebuild. And, NC is a high humidity state.

Charlie

BTW: I know that Gene says we don't need no stinkin hardened valve seats but I would have them put in if the engine was disassembled ust the same.

BTW2: The engine has not been turned for its life after rebuild. I don't know if it's stuck or not but with the additives I'll drinch it with, it will probably turn ok.

Charlie- DO NOT TAKE IT TO THE MACHINE SHOP. You say $400 but when you get it back you will be posting about how it cost $1200.00 for them just to look at it. WILL TOO. Crank it over by hand first and then hook up a gas supply and fire it up. If there is anything wrong inside you will soon know. Don't need no shop to tell you. You might want to just tap all the valve stems to be sure none are stuck first. The little bit of rust that may have formed in the cylinders will wear off in the first couple of minutes. If you are really worried about the insides get a bore scope and look in the plug holes. Much cheaper than the "machine shop bandits" and you will know the price up front-no hook-line and sinker-scenario. Please let us know how it runs.

I agree. Just lube all moving parts you can see with ATF or MMO and do as descrbed.


fill with 5W-30 oil for faster circulation and there should be no problem.

I had a spare 216 that I rebuilt 10 years ago. When I put it together, I used straight STP on all moving parts. I decided to sell it last year and the guy said he had no issues with it. I would turn it over about two times a year. Also had all openings taped closed.

I have a '72 350 cu. in. V-8 that I personally rebuilt approx. 20 years ago. I used Lubriplate 105 Assembly Lube. Taped all openings to prevent moisture entering. After a few years the engine froze up. Even a bar on the flexplate wouldn't turn it. Added ATF and PB Blaster to each spark plug hole occasionally over a couple of years. Still couldn't turn it over. Took off the heads, cylinders looked just the same as when assembled. Took off the oil pan and found a pinkish solid around each bearing. Soaked with PB Blaster, ATF and motor oil. Could not turn the crankshaft until I loosened all main bearing caps, 6 of 8 rod caps (couldn't get to the rod bolt nuts on 2 rods). With a large bar in the flexplate bolts finally got it to move a teensy bit. Worked it back and forth and finally got it to rotate. Removing all bearing caps failed to find any rust, corrosion or anything except the Lubripate "glue". Once the "glue" was removed and the bearings lubricated with 30 wt motor oil it rotates like it should.

My recommendation is only use assembly lube if you plan to quickly run the engine. Since I have talked to others about my problem, I have found others with engines that were assembled with Lubriplate 105 and STP have frozen after as little a few months. Because of the additives in multi-vis oils in the future I will only use straight weight oil when asssembling other engines.

I have a 53ish 216 sitting in a crate that was rebuilt in 1980 according to the warranty paperwork. No taping of ports. I pulled the pan and head to look inside and it looks good and still turns over fine.

Interesting info about the assembly lube gumming up. I like Chipper's recommendation of straight weight oil only for assembly as you can always freshen it up with some more.

I have seen NOS Chevrolet short blocks disassembled after 30 years and the oiled parts had like a jellyed rubber coating that was origianlly oil I would assume.

Thanks for the responses, guys. I appreciate it.

Steve D,

I don't have a bore scope but I think that is a good idea. Where can I buy one. Do the regular national parts places carry them? Anybody.

Best,

Charlie

BTW: I see that Bob threw in an icon. He must think you are wrong.

Thanks for this post. I just realized I pulled the engine out of a 47 I had about 8 years ago. It is in the garage and not sealed up. Think I better pull it out and turn it over and get some MMO on the rockers. Only started it a couple of times before I pulled it.

Charlie you can get one on Amazon for around $20.00.

I have been using Militec-1 for assembly lube on my 235 engine. My friend recommended it as he used it and had an oil pump failure on his 350 and drove his truck over two miles with zero oil pressure and there was no additional damage. www.militec-1.com/autos.html

Steve,

Thanks for the tip. May get one.

In the mean time, I don't want to spend bucks when I don't need. Accordingly, I have an appointment coming up with my urologist. He usually leave that scope of his lying in the tray when he gets done. I think I may be able to "borrow" it, Canceled down my trousers shouldn't be noticeable on my way out. I'll return it after I've poked it down the 10 mm spark-plug holes to have a look-see in the cylinders. I'm sure he has another one.

I need some of that super slickem stuff they use too. I'll see if I can talk the nurse (female) out of a glob of it. I think she likes me because she takes more time in lubricating my passage than she really needs to. We'll see. Not to worry though, I don't think its anything but chassis grease anyway. Maybe Vaseline,

Best,

Charlie

Update on the engine. After almost a week of having squirted the WD-40 and MM oil in the cylinders the sucker stayed stuck. Until today I went by it today and put the handy crowbar on it and ga?e it a good strong pull as usual, and low and behold it moved slightly. Hallialougha! Now i'm going to put some erl in it and spin up the oil pump and keep pulling it around to see if it will get to the point that I think it is okay.

I talked a former bodyman into fixing the bottom of the drivers side door. Cost me .5k and 215 for the ill fitting sheet metal I ordered off ebay. The bodyman is retired and doesn't want to do any outside work otherr than his own 51 Chevrolet pickup. It will be a 51 in name only,

Still haven't found the left-hand ventilator (frame) but I have confidence that it will turn up someday.

This car is more of a money pit than a boat, Is too.

Best,

Charlie

BTW: I emailed that Desert Junk Yard out in Arizona and told them what I need and mentioned that 41-48 Pontiac, Olds and Buick would fit. Not a word back other that a automatic replly saying they had got the email. So much for their bragging rights.. I'm not impressed.

Spinning the oil pump will lubricate the main bearings only and will not make much difference. Would be nice if you could spin it over with a starter also.

Trouble is I have it on an engine stand. Accordingly, there is no flywheel housing or flywheel with starter gear. I could merely set it down on some supports and accomplish all you suggest from there. Think I'll do that. Seems the engine stand does nothing but hinder the rebuilt engine, not like if you were working on it.

Thanks for the suggestion,

Charlie

Here's a hokey idea: Drop the engine onto a furniture dolly with a couple of 4x6 cross pieces of wood bolted to the dolly. Strap the engine down and keep moving forward.

;-) Dean

Dean,

Sounds like a plan. I figure something out. Maybe get some twobyfours and some rollers and make one.

Thanks,
Charlie

Charlie, better yet, follow this link over to the Stovebolt web site and you'll find plans to build an engine dolly: Wood engine dolly

Cheers, Dean

Dean,

What a super suggestion and, more, you even supplied me the information to build the dolly.

Thanks a heap and if I ever see you you'll get a big ol' bear hug from me. (that oughta learn ya)

I do appreciate your valued advice and help with a solution to my delimma. Do too!

Best regards,

Charlie

You're very welcome, Charlie.

Post a pic or two when the engine is sitting in its new cradle.

Cheers, Dean