Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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#404392 03/05/18 10:28 PM
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m006840 Offline OP
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Has anyone recently purchased new brake drums for a 51-59 passenger car. I am curious as to the quality seeing the pricing is very attractive. Pricing ranging from $29.00-$39.00 and some from vendors I am familiar with such as Bendix. Almost does not seem worth the effort to clean-turn-and paint at those prices so I am hoping someone that has recently replaced some could advise regarding the quality compared to original OEM.


Steve D
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m006840 #404393 03/05/18 10:34 PM
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I installed new drums as you described on my "57 about 15 years ago. Can't remember where they were made but I have had no problems.


Gene Schneider
m006840 #404401 03/06/18 03:29 AM
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If you can get bendix drums I seriously doubt you will have any issues. Their quality is good throughout the range.
Tony


1938 1/2 ton Hope to drive it before I retire
m006840 #404406 03/06/18 10:35 AM
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I have two used off a 52. If interested I can check the I. D.

chevy1937 #404409 03/06/18 10:39 AM
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At that price most likely from China and not worth the effort to put on.


Dens Chevys 1927 Speedster 1928 coupe 1941street rod 1947Fleetline 4 door 1949 1/2 ton Pickup (sold) 1954 210 4 door 1972 Monte Carlo 2003 Corvette convt..
m006840 #404425 03/06/18 12:06 PM
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Thanks for the replies guys. Today I went for my state inspection on my Silverado and had the front rotors and pads changed and the brand of rotor they used was Centric. Same brand as one listed on Rock Auto for the 51 drums . The owner of the shop I use is very knowledgeable and said he has had good luck with that brand but to use their 'premium' grade. Like a lot of things they have the good-better and best. I do have six of the used drums and will probably pick the two best and re-use them. At least there should not be a question of quality as long as they can can be turned and stay in spec. I agree with dens41 most are probably produced in China even if they are the old reliable names such as Wagner, Bendix, and Raybestos.


Steve D
m006840 #404447 03/06/18 05:32 PM
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Dens41.

If products made in China is to U.S. specifications what in the world could be wrong with them. Might check other products you may own before making such a broad statement. Juar saying. I'm not saying their products are superior to others but some of them are worth the money. For instance, check at you furniture store and you'll see.

Labor is cheaper in China. Workers there appreciate their jobs and want to keep them. They feel that unsatisfactory performance may not be protected by reprensation by some group or another. Go figure.

Next time you pass a construction site note the eastern products doing the heavy lifting, scooping and dozing. Agrin

Best,
Charlie computer

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The important word in your post Charlie is the word "if". I agree some are OK and others not so. Not much different than here other than perhaps we may have more stringent controls for our products. I agreed with dens41 that most are probably made in China-did not comment on the quality. Not only is the labor cheaper but the regulations are a lot less stringent.


Steve D
m006840 #404451 03/06/18 06:36 PM
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Just because it is made in China dos not mean it is bad. The problem is companies want something made down to a price so it appeals to bargin hunters. If they want a part made to high quality standards they can do that also but the price will be higher.
The Buick Envision is a good example. The crossover is made in China and is just as good as US made Buicks.

Last edited by Chev Nut; 03/06/18 06:39 PM.

Gene Schneider
m006840 #404453 03/06/18 07:23 PM
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Charlie I was not saying everything from China was bad, just that at the price point I would bet that they were low quality from China.


Dens Chevys 1927 Speedster 1928 coupe 1941street rod 1947Fleetline 4 door 1949 1/2 ton Pickup (sold) 1954 210 4 door 1972 Monte Carlo 2003 Corvette convt..
m006840 #404704 03/12/18 06:59 PM
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The front drums are riveted to the hubs. What is the best procedure to follow when replacing? Should they be re-riveted? bolted? or just use the studs for proper mounting?


Steve D
m006840 #404705 03/12/18 07:36 PM
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Years ago they were bolted when drums replaced. In 1960 Chevrolet stopped fastening them together and that is what I have always done.
Just as the rears.


Gene Schneider
Chev Nut #404707 03/12/18 08:03 PM
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Thanks Gene. Good to know I get to change out with no hassle.


Steve D
m006840 #404905 03/16/18 12:41 PM
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I cleaned up four of my used drums and am curious about some differences. Two have a slot cut into them for squeal reduction along with springs and two are plain no cuts and no springs. There are no identifying marks other than a W-1,W-10, and W-16. Were the slots and springs a Chevy item or aftermarket? The two without springs or slots do have the groove for the spring and are the ones I would like to use. If they are noisy (squeal) can the slot be cut into them to help? I noticed most of the replacement drums do not have the spring groove.


Steve D
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The 1954 drums were used from 1951-1958 front and rear and 1959-1964 rear only. In 1959 changes were made for better air cooling and that new drum replaced the original for replacement. 1949 and 1950 had the wrap-around coil spring to elemenate brake squeaking. Coils can be found on later also.Not sure what slots you are refering to except for a ledge to keep the spring in place.
Several replacement makes of drum were sold so anything is possible. Do not know what the numbers indiacte.
I emailed ypu a picture of the original drum used in 1951-1958.

Last edited by Chev Nut; 03/16/18 01:16 PM.

Gene Schneider
Chev Nut #404908 03/16/18 01:42 PM
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Thanks Gene but I have windows 7 and could not open the photos. Your description above does help as this car did have parts from a 49-54. One owner was a Chevy mechanic and it seems he changed several items such as 235 dist. and intake and exh manifolds and carb. I would like to ask him what else I may find but he has long passed on. I will try to add a photo here of the "slotted drum" and the ones I plan on using. Have to say it's nice to be able to add the photo so easily. If I had to choose between adding the photo or getting an Email PM the add photo benefit would win hands down. That said I am still hoping for both.

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Steve D
m006840 #404911 03/16/18 02:27 PM
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I think the slot was for balancing.

this may have been posted before but where do I find instructions for posting pictures?

Last edited by Chev Nut; 03/16/18 02:58 PM.

Gene Schneider
Chev Nut #404914 03/16/18 04:01 PM
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[quote=

this may have been posted before but where do I find instructions for posting pictures?[/quote]

I missed it also and would like to know.

dick

XLVIIdriver #404917 03/16/18 05:13 PM
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Click on use full editor button at the bottom of the reply box.


Steve D
Chev Nut #404919 03/16/18 05:20 PM
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I have to disagree about the balancing. The slot is cut right next to the brake band surface. It stops the vibration from traveling just as a hole drilled on a glass crack. A bell with a crack does not ring because the vibration cannot travel thru. My friend from the restoration shop says to test a head or other casting tap it with a hammer. If it rings like a bell it's swell. If it goes clunk-it's junk.


Steve D
m006840 #404923 03/17/18 03:19 AM
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The groove could also be to release brake dust which will reduce squeal and keep brake performance at its best.
Tony


1938 1/2 ton Hope to drive it before I retire
tonyw #404927 03/17/18 09:59 AM
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It possibly could help to expel brake dust by allowing air to pass thru. The slot is cut with a circular tool and the inner part is only 3/4" long that is thru the drum.


Steve D
m006840 #404928 03/17/18 10:37 AM
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Quote
1949 and 1950 had the wrap-around coil spring to elemenate brake squeaking.

My 1951 Chevrolet has the groove and the wrap-around coil spring on all of the drums as well.

laugh wink beer2


The Mangy Old Mutt

"If It's Not Junk.....It's Not Treasure!"

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