VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1929-1932 Looking for '32 or '33 cylinder head

I've recently posted here with valve guide questions for the '33 cylinder head that is on my '32 engine. I had it cleaned and magnafluxed and it was good. I was having trouble pressing out the guides.

I figured I'd start a new thread instead of tacking on to the end of the other threads because I got stupid and broke the head. I thought I had sufficient support underneath the valve guide hole while pressing, but apparently not. I went from a good head to scrap metal in an instant. Broke about a 3 inch diameter piece out of the head. When the first guide galled so badly I should have just taken the head back to the machine shop to have them take the guides out. I just like doing stuff like this myself. I get much more satisfaction than I would if I just wrote checks.

So now that I've confessed, I'm looking for a good '32 head part number 836718 or a good '33 head part number 836961.

This happened on the day my NOS '33 valves were delivered from one vendor and valve guides and springs from another vendor. Correct reamers were delivered yesterday.

If anyone has a head they'd be willing to sell, I can be reached at studebaker4829@live.com

Thanks in advance. Tom Lewis VCCA number 52013

Sorry to hear about the damage to your cylinder head. Unfortunately, finding a good cylinder head is like flying to the Moon without a spaceship since those heads are extremely prone to cracking because of their design. I have gotten many, many calls over the years from guys looking for good 1929 to 1932 cylinder heads so I wish that I had some to sell. I did see a guaranteed good 1932 cylinder head for sale a few years ago. I think that the fellow wanted either $1,200 or $1,700 for the cylinder head. At any rate it sold almost instantly.

Good luck with your search. I hope that you do find a 1932 or a 1933 cylinder head that is usable so that you can get your car on the road.

I'm pretty sure I have a '32 head that has some cracks. There are reliable methods for repairing cylinder heads. Let me know if I can help.

Mike

After coming here and reading of all the troubles with '32 heads I was happy when I discovered my '32 came with a '33 head.
I suppose '33 heads aren't any easier to find but it seems the chances of having a better head might be worth the hunt.

Not only are the early heads expensive getting one checked properly can also cost a lot. I got a price from a reliable shop of $100-$110 . That includes having the head "baked" (cleaned) and then it can be fluxed and an estimate made for finished repair. There is no sense shipping a head that has not been tested .

I totally agree. Otherwise, without testing the head before purchase chances are very good that the cylinder head is a boat anchor. Good usable cylinder heads are like gold!

Is it possible to see the areas that are prone to cracking with a visual inspection?

If the crack is large enough -yes. Often times it is very fine and even after cleaning the area does not show. When the head is on the car and gets heated it will then open up. With a head that was recently removed it's fairly easy to determine if water has been in the cylinder.The head gasket can be checked but if the head has been in storage for a long time and no gasket available the only sure way to check is magnafluxing. Even if the head gasket is bad it's still a good idea to check the head before re-installing.

When I was working on my 1930, I had a stack of cylinder heads. Went through them all and on each one I could visually see the cracks in each cylinder head. One cylinder head had a huge crack that could be seen from six feet away. Out of the five or six cylinder heads that I had in stock only one was repairable. The rest were all junk. The 1929-33 cylinder heads are fragile so finding a good one in many cases is not all that easy.

My condolences to Tom for breaking his cyl head.

I have a spare junk engine in the barn with what I think is a '31 head #836273. It's on a '32 block, # 836573. I have no history of this engine as I bought it for parts andy didn't know the 2 components were even compatible.

Maybe someone could verify these numbers ? It could possibly help Tom or someone looking for a head someday. I'd first have to remove, clean up and magnaflux the head.

Yep, according to the casting number it is a 1930-31 cylinder head.

I have been in contact with Tom and he advised that he has one located and is waiting for test results.

Great! Hope that the cylinder head turns out to be a good one for Tom.

Bought some stuff from a guy in Boise Idaho. I left behind the engine (and frame 1932) because my block and head are good. Let me know if you are still looking and I can try and contact him to see if he still has it. Don't know if it is any good or not. Didn't need it so i didn't check it out.

Question!! The 1933 head must be a Master head, 33 Standard head has the water pump in it so wouldn't work?

Yes the '33 Standard head is a completely different animal and will not bolt up to a '29-'33 block. However, the '33 Master head will bolt up. Just be aware that the '33 Master head is a little taller (or thicker) so requires longer push rods when installed on the earlier engines.

I'm still waiting for magnaflux results from the possible source mentioned above. Should know early next week.

In any case, I'll be at the pre-war swap meet in Chickasha, OK, next weekend on the lookout for anything for '32 Chevy except wheels. It seems like wheels are everywhere and I have more than I can shake a stick at. Anybody on this forum going to Chickasha?

Tom

There are a bunch of VCCA members going to attend. The Heart of Route 66 Region is scheduled to meet at 11:30 AM in the Southwest corner of the North building. Some Rio Grande Region and left coast members intend to be there as well. I would love to go but our San Jacinto Region 29th Annual Swap Meet is being held in Houston,TX on that Friday - Sunday.

Hey Tom so you have lots of wheels? I have 6 but pitted. Was going to get them blasted and powder coated, but don't want them to look rough when done. Someone mentioned a "self leveling" powder coating? Anyone heard of this?

Hey Guys,

Just know getting a 33 head to work on a 32 block is not as easy as you would think. What Rocker arm supports are you going to use? 32 or 33? They are different and also the 32 pushrods are too short and the 33 pushrods are too long! This is all because the 33 head is 1/2 inch taller then a 32 and the block is 5/8 inch taller too.

Tom Lewis, you can have all the Fisher body 32 parts you want at Chickasha, I get the open car parts! See you guys there!

Bruce

What about a 30-31 head for the 32, they seem more available?

Dave