Going to start restoring a 34 or 35 pickup and keeping it all original. The owner told me it’s a 34 but motor casting date is F-5-5 so assuming the engine is original to the truck, it would be a 35. I am hoping to get in contact with anyone who currently has a 35 pickup in restored or nice original condition so I could ask some questions on certain aspects of the truck. Also looking for the correct manual for this truck/year. Any suggestions to help me along are welcomed. Thanks in advance.
The 1934 will have the coil mounted to the fire wall - 1935 mounted on the side of the engine above the distributor requiring a longer eletrolock cable.
The 1935 windshiled support arms wrap around when W.S. is closed - 1934 just locks with screw knobs.
Electrolock is MIA and the coil is mounted on the engine though the cowl does have two holes that look like a coil clamp could mount there. The windshield has two wing nuts with two notched supports to set the windshield out in increments. Motor could have been switched out. What would the respective engine casting numbers be for each year?
The 1934 casting number for the block was 837231 and engine number ranged from 3964077-4708994. 1935 casting number 837591 and engine numbers from4708995-5500178. . Trucks had T in front of te number..
The 1935 Engneering manual better describes the windshield adjusting devise.
Depends on whether the plant ran out of '34 engines. It is possible that if it was made late they used a '35 engine. Or like you said someone changed it out. Improvements were coming fast throughout 34, 35, 36, 37 and Chevrolet did its best to keep up with engineering changes. It important to check out all the casting numbers to insure your engine has the correct parts. Some replacement heads have corroborators that only fit that head; these were sold by Chevy the following year and they gave more horse power. These will fit on all the engines but will not interchange. Carbs/heads that get switched out may be the wrong one. Yeah, it's a 34 and will fit...but problems in how it runs is the result. Increased horse (the new head and carb. combo) power on 34's kept Chevy in pace with the competition as the years passed.
The 1 1/2 ton truck engine serial numbers began with a "T". Starting in 1933 the 1/2 ton engine serial numbers began with a "K". Not sure when that identification ceased.
The T was used for truck engines up tp at least 1941. There were exceptions. As an example in 1938 T was used for Flint engines and TB for Tonawanda engines. VT for Flint Economy engines and ET for trucks (large) with extra deep oil pans.
Hey Gene, Is this a topic for the G&D? Engine serial numbers or engine ID? For sure only for a limited range as they can get more complicated 1955 and after.
Not intending to hijack this thread so, to get back on subject. In the 80+ years since the truck was built many changes could have been made making complete and accurate identification difficult.
At various times people make proposals or claims of "using left over parts" or factory "ran out of parts" or ???? to attempt to explain what they are currently seeing. While both could be true in isolated cases those deviations from normal practice if in any quantity would be discussed in Service Bulletins, Service News, and other official Chevrolet documents or communications.
Topic for the G&D.....I will hesitate because the lettering list is long and rather complicated. Also afraid to make an error.Could give it a try.
The "left over parts" or "ran out of parts" makes me cringe. That just did not happen and if it did it was documented. True there were ist and 2nd designs where an improvement or change was made during the model year.
Hi Guys, Thanks for all this info. I had typed out a response a few days ago but I guess I didn't post it to this thread. I will order the manual from the FS. Here is what I've come up with: Casting number is 837591-6 Serial #: 5246045 (no T or K) Cowl tag # (but it looks like it should be nailed to the wood as it has 4 small holes for nails in the four corners) 21D327 41 (the tag is chewed up so I don't know if there is more numbers. Exhaust manifold: 837309
So it appears to be a 35' motor and because there is only numbers in the serial number, that motor is a car motor?
The casting number indicates 1935 engine. There also should be a casting date with month letter, one or two day digits and 4 or 5 which is the last digit of the casting year. The engine serial number would indicate ~ 4 months from the end of production.
The serial number tag with the four corner holes translates as follows
21 = Janesville, WI assembly plant DB = 1934 1/2 ton 27 = unknown or not accurately read. Should be one or two digits from the assembly month 1-12 space sequential number beginning with 1001 for first assembled.
The engine number does not have a letter prefix which indicates it is from a 1935 mASTER dELUXE PASSENGER CAR. tHIS IS IMPORTANT BECAUSE THE EARLY sTANDARD AND TRUCKS HAD A 1934 mASTER TYPE HEAD. tHE HEAD YOU HAVE WILL HAVE THE IMPROVED SPLIT KEY VALVE KEEPERS ETC. aLSO THE WATER PUMP FITS 1935 ONLY THE THE CONNECTING RODS HAVE THE NEW FOR 1935 PRESSURE STREAM OILING. The oil filler cap is from a 1935 because it has the big ear on it. The fuel pump is a 1934 as it has no glass bowl filter.
Thanks guys. All this really helps. So I know I’ll need body parts for a 34’ and when I rebuild the engine I’ll need parts for a 35’ master. Are engine rebuild parts available? Filling station? Other vendors?
Yes! Engine parts are found in The Filling Station, Kanter Auto Products (Kanter.com) and others. Now you see what I was talking about. Hemmings Motor News . com or hard copy has a good list of these vendors. Also, in the G&D, the club magazine is a list, too. Some are in your area. It is best to "check out" these before you commit to a repair job. I recommend that you stick with the parts you have. Don't just take any old rebuilt head, etc. A quality re-build will last many years and a cheap one? Good luck.
Are engine rebuild parts available? Filling station?
Check out the Filling Station's catalog (you should have one) or go on line and check out their web site. Anytime that you need parts for any year of Chevrolet always refer to the Filling Station's catalog first since they have lots of stuff.
My '36 truck had a 216 fuel pump when I got it. The base is different but close enough to mount up. I don't think the lever is quite the same shape but it must have worked at one time. I think that is the pump I am seeing in the photo. I seem to recall the '34 base uses two bolts which are diagonal to one another so I don't think it would could be used on this engine. '35 and '36 share a fuel pump, AC number is 421. This pump is also used on some Buicks and Diamond T trucks.
The 1934 fuel pump is the first to have the bolts directly across from each other. The 1934 fuel pump had no glass bowl. It will fit directly to a 1935-1936 engine. The 1935 and 1936 fuel pump has an inline gas sediment bowl, that is the only difference....The 417 is the 1934 pump and also fit 1934 and 1935 Buick series 40 engines. The 1935-36 pump is a 421.THhey both use the same diaphragrams.
Tore the engine down to take to the machine shop. Looks like the head gasket was leaking wi th some rusting in 6 but bores in all cylinders look good. The head appears to be a 36’ with casting number 837981 build date E 7 6. Inside the water outlet is 1936, B13, 1x. Is this head ok on this block? Is there anything specific I should know when the machine shop takes it to look it over? Thanks in advance.
Book says it fits. part number 601988 1935-36....all. I would have them magno-flux the head for cracks before working on it. If they do find cracks they can zip them. Major shops do this process and are very successful. Replacement heads are very hard to find. Fix what you got. Have it pressure tested. It does not have to have "high compression test" as this is a low compression engine. Valve seats: most shops want to cut the seats out and place inserts. I would not recommend that if possible. Make sure that they stay with the original cut a 30 degree angle. That means they will have to "re-tool" and charge extra, but it is well worth it. If they change the angle [for more power, etc] it will change "the sound of the engine" and get you away from "original restoration". Changing the valve guides to brass [some shops like brass guides on engines not ran much. This prevents the valves from sticking during long idle periods.] The valve guides on this '36 head has collars. If you replace the guides make sure they use the correct ones. Springs: make sure that you replace the springs. These are original they are 80 years old. I recommend using the original type. Some prefer to replace with stiffer springs, but that will be harder on the valves. Your choice. If it was my head I would go with the best restoration I could get. That way you don't have to go back later. Good luck from a guy that has been there and "done that".
Thanks for all the advice Terrill. Going to drop it off at the machine shop today. I need one pushrod, one lifter/pushrod spring, and one pushrod keeper. Any idea where I can find one?
What do you mean by push rod keeper? The long retainer that retains all the springs?I have a choice of a new or good used push rod and spring and possibly the long retainer.
What do you mean by push rod keeper? The long retainer that retains all the springs?I have a choice of a new or good used push rod and spring and possibly the long retainer.
Each push rod has a “C” shaped washer like retainer that keeps the bottom end of the pushrod under the spring in each lifter. The long bar retainer keeps all the springs in place along with the lifters. The c retainers keep the pushrods from coming out of those springs.
