Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks


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#403534 02/14/18 09:44 PM
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olsarge Offline OP
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With it getting more and more difficult to find a machine shop that can (or will) rebuild our old engines, I thought I'd put out a general inquiry of shops that can do all the necessary machining and assembly of a babbitted stove bolt. So chime in. If you know of a shop that can do a good job in your area or elsewhere let us know.


See the USA in Your Chevrolet

1932 5-Window Coupe
1935 Sedan (streetrod)
1955 Apache
1955 Nomad
Two 1956 Nomads
1959 Apache
1964 Malibu SS Convertible
2012 Corvette Grand Sport


James
Filling Station - Chevrolet & GMC Reproduction Parts


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olsarge #403535 02/14/18 09:54 PM
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Columbia Classic Cars, Inc. (New World Engine and Machine Works)
1235 U.S. Route 202
Winthrop, ME 04364
207-377-2107

I have heard from others that they do a fantastic and quality job on rebuilding vintage engines.

laugh wink beer2


The Mangy Old Mutt

"If It's Not Junk.....It's Not Treasure!"
olsarge #403547 02/15/18 03:16 AM
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This is more for others down under but I have just had Parry Lineboring in Sydney Aus do the crank and babbit on my 38. I haven t got it together yet but others that he has done are still going fine.
Tony


1938 1/2 ton Hope to drive it before I retire
olsarge #403554 02/15/18 11:00 AM
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Check out www.rlengines.com They are a well equipped and experienced builder in Dover N.H. They do antique and high performance engines for automotive and marine.


Steve D
olsarge #403588 02/15/18 09:06 PM
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Check out Simons Balancing and machine shop in Charleston, SC. 95% of his cars are pre-1930(he has about 15).

Last edited by nhinchas; 02/15/18 09:07 PM.
olsarge #403603 02/16/18 07:15 AM
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I am currently having my '25 engine completely rebuilt at:

Aldrich Engine Rebuilding
352 River Rd. Willington Ct. 06279-1309
(860) 429-3111
Email: www.Babbitt-bearings.com


He was featured in Hemmings Motor News back in 2013.
He is a one man shop. He only uses real (tin , copper and zinc) Babbitt for bearings....No lead,

I should be getting my engine back next month.



Steve
'25 Superior "K", '79 Corvette , '72 Corvette LT-1 & 1965 Corvette Coupe
SSG26K #403626 02/16/18 06:52 PM
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Ron's Machine Shop near Cincinnati, OH:

http://ronsmachineshop.com/

Rebuilt my '30 Coupe motor.

Happy Motoring,

DanR

olsarge #404220 03/02/18 06:04 PM
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There are two here in Fayetteville, NC. Moffit's and Auto Machine Shop. They're across the street/railroad tracks from each other in downtown.

Both do excellent work and have done so for many years now.

Charlie computer

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Ideal Supply. Established in 1926. Head Office in Listowel Ontario Canada.

Machine Shop
Dave Lange - Manager - Machine Shop Division
dlange@idealsupply.com
519-291-1060 ext 5272

Engine Rebuilding
Antique restorers, car collectors, racing enthusiasts! Ideal Supply’s Listowel Machine Shop was the first ISO9002 engine rebuilding centre in North America and “Machine Shop of the Year”. Now we have 3 shops serving the region. Engine machining, radiator cores and hoses, truck hydraulics, fittings and crimping, industrial and farm machinery … we’ll help get your restoration and repairs done.


1932 Chev 5 Window Coupe
olsarge #413713 08/29/18 11:53 AM
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Hart's Machine Service
located in NW Ohio
in business since 1926

106 North Main Street
PO Box 13
Cecil, Ohio, 45821

419-399-4777
harts@hartsmachineservice.com


They recently fixed cracks in my '28 block. Very happy with the results.

Last edited by jtroberts64; 08/29/18 11:54 AM.

Jeff

1925 Superior K 4 Dr Sedan
1966 C10
2003 Silverado 1500 HD
olsarge #413714 08/29/18 12:24 PM
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Olsarge I am curious what you decided to do with your engine rebuild.


Steve D
m006840 #413718 08/29/18 01:56 PM
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olsarge Offline OP
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Steve, i made this original post more as a resource for everyone on the chat. I took my engine to Godwin-Singer in St. Petersburg, Florida, on August 31, 2016. They did a complete rebuild including all new valve train, build-up and regrind of camshaft (new or good used one not available - someone told me that if I find a new camshaft I should buy a unicorn also as there are more unicorns than they're are 1932 Chevy camshafts) magnaflux, babbitting, rebuild: distributor, carburetor, new water-pump (from Filling Station) repair and machine cracked head, etc. I got the engine back October 30, 2017 - Yep, 14 months later. The engine seem to be well done. It has a very minor oil leak so slight we can't determine where it's coming from. Before you could watch the oil pour out of the rear. I've had other issue with the engine not related to the rebuild. It's died twice coming home from local cruise-ins and had to be towed. These issues seem to be related to a bad fuel system. I just replace the fuel tank and rebuilt the fuel pump my self (again, with kit from the Filling Station). Another time a broken ignition wire. As of now I try to drive it everyday close to the house until I'm sure it is reliable. I'm pretty happy with the engine rebuild although I must say this hobby is not for the faint hearted or those with a limited budget. For what I spent on this engine I could have bought a new 500 hp crate motor from my local Chevy dealer with a full warranty. I now have close to twice what this car will ever be worth invested in it. That being said, I still love the car and did not restore it for the money. I hope this thread will act as a resource for anyone else in need of major engine overhaul. Thanks for asking.


See the USA in Your Chevrolet

1932 5-Window Coupe
1935 Sedan (streetrod)
1955 Apache
1955 Nomad
Two 1956 Nomads
1959 Apache
1964 Malibu SS Convertible
2012 Corvette Grand Sport


James
olsarge #413719 08/29/18 03:50 PM
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Thanks for the clarification and update. It is a challenge to have an engine properly overhauled at a reasonable cost. Not impossible but certainly calls for a lot of careful research.


Steve D
olsarge #413728 08/29/18 07:02 PM
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Olsarge. What you described is exactly what I am going through now. Complete engine rebuild and spending like a drunken sailor. It ain't the money, it's the satisfaction of the end result. Good to hear your story. Encouraging for a greenhorn such as myself. Thanks.


1932 Chev 5 Window Coupe
olsarge #413759 08/30/18 08:02 AM
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Well, I did a more or less budget rebuild and while it runs nice and pulls OK, it still sounds like a Diesel. Still working at quieting it down. Still not enjoying it as much as I thought I would. There is a '48 here which is dead quiet. Mine is a '34 Master and should be that quiet too.


Best Regards, Pat
olsarge #413828 08/30/18 08:27 AM
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We're waiting to get a few hundred miles on mine before we readjust the valves. There's a little valve chatter. But I think that's normal. My problem is taking an engine hundreds of miles away to have it rebuilt. You have no idea what they did. You're taking it on faith that they did a proper grind on the cam, etc. The only shops I could find local would do the tear down, basic machining and reassembly. But none could do the babbitt bearings. I wanted one shop to do everything. That way if something goes wrong there's no passing the buck. I couldn't find a local shop to do the bearings. If done right let's face it these engines should last another hundred years. I drive my '32 less than 1,000 miles a year in clear weather on good asphalt roads, not 10,000 a year in all types of weather on nasty dusty, dirt or muddy roads like the first 25 years of its life.


See the USA in Your Chevrolet

1932 5-Window Coupe
1935 Sedan (streetrod)
1955 Apache
1955 Nomad
Two 1956 Nomads
1959 Apache
1964 Malibu SS Convertible
2012 Corvette Grand Sport


James
olsarge #413862 08/30/18 09:43 PM
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I use two machine shops. Ones does everything but line bore, and the other does everything. I’ve recently had two motors rebuilt, a 32’ Olds 6cyl flat head and a 31’ 194 Chevy 6. Both shops are extremely good with many years experience. I highly recommend either one. Here’s a quick description of both. I Have just recently dropped off a 35’ stovebolt to be rebuilt.

Atlantic Automotive Machine, 31 Scott st., New Bedford, MA 02740 508-997-8822 Owner: Mike Oliveira
Old time shop that no longer line bores but does hand fit Babbitted rods. Decent turn around, 6 month average.Extremely affordable compared to every other shop I’ve dealt with or heard others talk about. Cost me less than $4000 for a total rebuild on my 32’ Olds. I purchased all parts including rods re Babbitt by Paul’s, custom made pistons by Ross, all new valves, guides, and springs. Work included disassembly, cylinder boring, all valve work, boiling of block and head, balancing, lightly polishing crank (motor main bearings were perfect) and complete reassembly. Machine shop labor charge was $1,750. The motor purrs like kitten.

Advanced Engine Rebuilding, 176 Main st, Wareham MA 02571 508-295-2288. Owner: Hans
Experienced shop on exotic antique cars to high end race cars. Complete Babbitt shop with line boring and balancing capabilities. Rebuilds engines from all over US. Good turnaround, 6 months average. Hans is extremely knowledgeable about balancing and is very picky about all aspects of the rebuild. Recently had my 31’ engine rebuilt by them. Total cost of rebuild was also just less of $4000. I again supplied all parts. Atlantic Automotive did all the head machining and cleaning $563. Advanced boiled block, bored block .030 over, fitted new main bearing shells, line bored main bearings, ground and polished crank, balanced crank, balanced rods (big and small ends), matched pistons with rods for balancing, installed pistons/rods, installed crank. Machine shop labor charge was $2,400.

The 31’ engine was finished assembled from the short block by me which saved money. Rods were NORS I purchased either from eBay or a VCCA member. NORS oil pump purchased from VCCA member. Main bearing inserts were part of some spare parts I bought from a collection along with a full gasket set. Parts purchased new were .030 over pistons w/rings/pins, exh/int valves/guides/springs, baffle plate, BB water pump (bought on the super reduced price sale by the FS, and two head bolts. Original parts used over were cam, lifters, rockers, and shaft. By planning ahead,looking for parts, and doing the disassembly/reassembly myself saved me a ton of money. The engine runs beautifully and is super smooth with no vibration. Very happy with the rebuild.

It is easy to see how inexpensive Atlantic is considering they did the complete reassembly.

Last edited by Chistech; 08/30/18 09:53 PM.
olsarge #413864 08/30/18 10:15 PM
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Price is one consideration, the ability to correctly overhaul our old engines is the primary concern, in my book.



1951 Chevy Styleline Deluxe 2 door sedan / purchased from second owner 6-19-2000.
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Originally Posted by bobg1951chevy
Price is one consideration, the ability to correctly overhaul our old engines is the primary concern, in my book.

So true. Also being able to recognize when the work is done properly. I recently visited a gentleman here in Ontario who had his engine rebuilt by someone in western Ontario (Ontario Canada and he didn't say the name). Well he was so proud and showed me how it started up right away. Within seconds white smoke started coming out the vents at the top and I suggested he shut it down. He insisted it was "rebuilt" and everything was fine. I implored him to shut it down. After about 5 minutes of this he finally relented and turned it off. So I pulled the dipstick and explained to him that water had gotten into the oil pan and the white smoke was water getting into the cylinders and that best case was the head gasket was bad. I did warn him that there could be a crack in the head or block as well and he should contact the engine builder. I expect he had been running this engine before at prolonged durations not suspecting anything wrong as it "runs fine". Well I walked away that day thinking this guy lost his $8000 for the rebuild and may have to rebuild again if nothing is cracked. Never did find out who rebuilt it.

olsarge #413892 08/31/18 12:57 PM
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olsarge Offline OP
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That is very scary. That's the sort of thing that keeps me up at night. The worst I've found on my after only a couple of hundred miles is a very slight oil residue. It may be coming out of the crank case breather. There is no oil under the car. Before it marked its spot everywhere it went.

Last edited by olsarge; 08/31/18 12:57 PM.

See the USA in Your Chevrolet

1932 5-Window Coupe
1935 Sedan (streetrod)
1955 Apache
1955 Nomad
Two 1956 Nomads
1959 Apache
1964 Malibu SS Convertible
2012 Corvette Grand Sport


James
olsarge #413896 08/31/18 02:29 PM
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Has anyone used Eastwoods Auto Machine in Somers, Ct.

http://eastwoodsautomachine.com/

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Originally Posted by bobg1951chevy
Price is one consideration, the ability to correctly overhaul our old engines is the primary concern, in my book.

I agree. I noted both shops were excellent with one being very affordable and the other still a great price. Expensive does not always mean the best by any means. I restore cars for people and if I started charging people $12-15,000 for an engine rebuild they’d think I’d gone mad. Rule of thumb is $1000-$1,200 per cylinder on the average when the owner drops off a complete motor and picks up a complete motor. I know of some paying $10,000 to $12,000+ on stovebolt sixes and that to me is excessive. It will become the norm though as less and less do less investigation into the options and costs. Many shops farm out some things like rods for instance and then double the cost. Shops that will not let you resource parts should not be bothered with in my opinion. Don’t forget, the 5-6 hrs it might take you in total to order parts will easily cost you $5-800 in shop labor. Get involved with your rebuild, learn more about your car, and keep more money in your pocket. Sometimes when you here someone say a car went through an “expensive” restoration, it really means the owner did nothing and payed more to do nothing. It doesn’t necessarily mean that expensive restoration is any better than one could be done for quite a lot less with the owner doing it or participating more than just being the bank roll.

Last edited by Chistech; 08/31/18 09:53 PM.
olsarge #413903 08/31/18 06:53 PM
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I agree with Cabboy and even if you do not do any of the work yourself having a good understanding of what and WHY things are being done is most important. If a shop can not explain to you what and WHY they are doing things so that you understand them then I would look for another shop.

Last edited by m006840; 08/31/18 08:22 PM. Reason: spelling correction

Steve D
olsarge #413914 08/31/18 09:56 PM
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The first shop I looked at was highly recommend by a well known member of this Chat. I don't recall the name now but they were in New England. When I called they quoted me a starting price of $12,000 before they even looked at the engine. I couldn't justify that. I ended up paying around $8,000 with me providing many of the parts. I personally think that's outrageous but although I understand much of what is done in the process I'm not a machinist or engine builder. The shop charged $95/hour for 70 hours plus parts etc. You do the math. I will say I'm surprised and disappointed no one makes new cam for a '32 stovebolt. I spoke to a race engine shop that could make a cam from scratch but the cost was astronomical.


See the USA in Your Chevrolet

1932 5-Window Coupe
1935 Sedan (streetrod)
1955 Apache
1955 Nomad
Two 1956 Nomads
1959 Apache
1964 Malibu SS Convertible
2012 Corvette Grand Sport


James
olsarge #414050 09/03/18 06:25 PM
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NOTE: This here right here is long. I advise you to not read it. Especially if all you are going to do is make demeaning comments about my sanity. We all already know I ain't just right in the head. Yeah. Agrin hood

The question is: Bebuild or Overhaul (O/H) Pick Overhaul. Rebuild is many times more expensive and the end product doesn't justify the money difference.

This is going to mess with some your minds but on review of the posts here hon this thread, let me offer my opinion. Shoot it down. Not a problem.

For an old Chevrolet engine up to say 1953 or so, do the work yourself. Get a service manual and follow it. Those old engines are not rocket science and were designed to be tough and last a reasonably long time.

The one in my 41 coupe that I driving most anywhere nowadays was rebuilt by my father, He used to be a mechanic back in the forties and fifties and rebuilt many an engine.

He overhauled mine in the seventies. It came out of a 41 also. (I still have the original engine with its bad fiber timing gear.) When he O/Hed mine, he disassembled it, measured the components where warranted, etc cleaned it up and reassembled it. New gaskets, adjusted rods, new rings, reground cam and one new piston. It still runs strong. He did it as a favor to me but I doubt he stent over $200.00 on it.

Look at it this way. What can be so difficult?

a. Check the bore. if necessary have it bored. If boring is not necessary merely hone it out and cut the ridge out of the top of the cylinder.

b. Find a shop that re-babbits rods and send your off with the specs you need.

C. Check the journals and have the machine shop grind to what ever you need.

d. Have the block boiled.

e. Have the block and head magnafulxed to check for cracks. Head is weakest around the spark-plug holes.

f. Get a new set of gaskets. There are good ones today. Fairly expensive but good.

g. Get the valves ground. Only replace them if they really need it. They are inexpensive. Get some valve grinding compound and a hand rubbing device and do it yourself.

h. Use the old valve springs if they are in reasonable limits of their manufacture limits. A machine shop can measure them for you. Again a new set is not expensive.

I. Check the cam and ground if necessary.

j. Get new timing gear for the cam.

k. Have the rocker arm tips ground.

After all this, then simply reassemble the engine. Get the shims adjusted as needed.

You will have less than a grand in it and it will run just about a fine as the 8K job. The one you do will last for 60-70K miles. The 8K one will last about the same.

Too, there has been many a post here on Chatter about different aspects of those old babbit engines. Gene, for one has posted about how to install the pan gasket, among other things.

Tools you will need to borrow, buy or steal are:

a. A hone.

b. Cylinder ridge reamer.

c. Some lubriplate or other slickem for the journals or just grease.

d. (My mind just went black) That stuff to check the shims on the bearings.

e. A valve spring tension release.

f. A small brass and ball-peen hammer.

g. 10w-30 oil from Walmart. Brand doesn't matter to the engine.

h. A bottle of Marvel Mystery oil.

i. The help of a fairly strong and knowledgable friend to do the heavy dirty stuff. Figure a case of Coors and a small refrigerator. This last one is more important than all the rest combined. Priceless!

I know I missed a lot of stuff but if you get a say ... 216 back together again with close to original tolerances, that old engine will peer like a kitten.

I hope others will chime in to point out my errors and also offer encouragement for the simple over haul. It its a TQ anything will serve. After all it only has to run from the trailer to its spot on the show grounds.Agrin: Unload it under the cover of night.

Best,

Charlie computer

BTW: No matter the O/H, rebuild, etc the first thing to go will be the rear main seal, next the rest of the gaskets, then the valves and rings. The mains and rods will last a long, long time. They should. bana2 :danc

BTW2: Fire at will.

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