VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1933-1936 Engine side panel oil seepage, 33

As I get a few miles (130) on this motor, which was rebuilt in the 1990s by some PO, but the car was never really driven, until now, I find the cork gasket seeps oil. Nothing is warped, it just seeps. Gasket looks brand new, though it is hard.

Do these always seep? What do you do to stop it? use clear silicone on the gasket sides? Something else?

I always used grease on my SBC valve cover gaskets to aid removal of the cover so nothing got bent and the gasket could be reused; this large flat lifter cover panel looks like a candidate for getting bent if the gasket is too well adhered to the motor and cover.

I would prefer to not have to wipe down the side of the motor after every 20 mile drive.

Thanks,
Doug

They do tend to seep if things are not perfect. They sealed much better with the old soft pure cork gaskets used many years ago. The modern semi cork gakets are just too hard. I hate to say it but some vey small amount of RTV sealer does help. I am a fan of sticking on gaskets with grease also but does not always work for this application.

Your could try using HI TAC auto gasket adhesive, comes in a spray or a brush on.

I prefer the brush on and a good coating to keep the gasket in place and also to adhere to the metal surface the gasket will come in contact with.

mike lynch

Had a similar situation with my '36 Std Coupe, a little seepage
along the bottom of the side panel. Here is what I did to fix
it, and it has worked for about five years, now. First, I took
an aerosol can of brake clean and washed that whole area down.
That made sure no oil film was left affect adhesion. I then
opened a tube of clear silicone sealer, put a dab on my finger
and applied it along the bottom, repeated until entire was
covered. Allow sufficient time for the silicone to cure, start
engine and look for any leakage; any leaks can be sealed the same way, later. I like brake clean for prep, as it doesn't
seem to damage the engine paint.

On my '35 with a "36 block I felt the the pan itself was not rigid enough and made a 1/8" x 3/4" steel rod to match the bottom lip and used cap head bolts instead of longer stove bolts. Works well, but would be less noticeable with stove bolts.