VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1929-1932 rear leaf springs question

Can someone verify that this photo shows a '32 stock shackle and pins ? I'm trying to compile a list of proper replacement parts. I've read the manual and a FS tech article but it's as clear as mud right now.
Also, the springs and shackle look like they've been sliding back and forth on the pins. If so, could this be an indication of worn bushings ? A contributing factor to poor handling on the road ? Thank guys.

left rear shackle

Looks to me like the nut has backed off and there is way too much gap. You are close to slipping off the spring pin. As far as the correct hardware it looks the same as my 31 and my 33.

Roger

Looks correct and as Roger pointed out way too loose.

Okay. I'll disassemble the other side as well. No more driving 'til it's snug and proper.

The shackle pins are pressed into the spring eye. If the spring is sliding back and forth on the shackle pin then your spring eye is worn out. Also, from what I can see in the photo it looks like your spring shackles are worn as well.

TAKE THE SHACKLE APART, tap the hardened steel pins until each side is matched in distance from the center. Examine the pins to see if they are heavily worn or if the cast shackle pockets are worn out .

Then re-install the cast shackle parts on the outside with ample grease so everything slides easily.

I would use a hardened steel washer and lock washer under the nut and pull everything together.

I think they actually sold repair kits from GM for this.

mike lynch

Just to amplify on what Junkyard Hound says, the pins are supposed to be a press fit into the spring eyes and should not move at all. If the spring eyes are worn allowing the pins to slide back and forth, you can fix it by using Loctite Sleeve Adhesive which essentially glues the pin into the spring eye.

All the Best, Chip

I should have caught this sooner.As soon as I get her safely jacked up, I'll start disassembly. Appreciate the advice, especially with the Loctite !
Should be interesting.

Your photo indicates that your spring shackles are badly worn so once you disassemble everything, and to do the job correctly, I would go with new spring shackles and pins.

The pin in the frame end spins like a top. Not good, I've learned. The one in the spring is tight BUT off center a lot. Got to press it back and see if it stays immobile.

So far today I found one shackle set and most replacement parts. I'm taking the whole spring off the car to do both ends right. Neighbor has a press.

On my Olds, there is small circles of heavy felt in each shackle hole to help seal the grease in the shackle with the grease fitting end having a small hole in the center of the felt to let the grease get pumped in. When I got my Chevy and all its parts, the chassis was finished so I never looked in the shackle caps. Shouldn’t the Chevy have them too?

Yes, originally the Chevy had them too. However, a heavy oil (600W) was used in the shackle pins so that the oil would flow to the shackle arms. The felts were used to keep the oil inside of the hollow pin and to monitor the oil for lubrication as needed.

If you want your car to ride better and to have the correct stance, you should replace all of the spring shackles, both front and rear, instead of just the one spring shackle.

I'm doing all four for sure. Need to find a decent 2nd shackle for the rear. Meanwhile, I took a couple of extra FS emergency brake felt washers and did a mock up shown here. Wouldn't this serve the purpose by keeping most of the grease in the ends ? The leaf spring eye fits perfect in the remaining space on the pin. Felt fits snuggly on pin too.

off-label use

No. The original felts went inside of the end of spring shackle arms.

If you use grease inside of the shackle pins you won't need the felts because the grease doesn't flow like the original heavy oil that was used in the shackle pins.

Okay. Would you guys re-assemble using a NOS pin (in center) or FS repro shown on far right ? My original worn one with the split is on the far left. The new FS pin weighs twice as much as the NOS pin and has smaller grease passage. Negligible difference ? I'll be using NOS shackle side plates.

Wouldn't bother me to use the FS replacement. A good grease gun will force grease through fine.
The later shackles used cork seals and then neoprene seals, mainly to keep the water/dirt from entering.

Always use new old stock parts when possible.

In this case only the NOS pin with the larger grease hole worked since I couldn't slide an all-thread through the smaller repro pin's grease hole and use my cobbled up "press". With a few washers and an 13/16 socket and plenty of heat, I was able to coax the NOS pin into the frame eye. It was very very tight. No need for Loctite 640 !
I'd love to find that special tool, Kent-Moore N-377, as the repair manual says is necessary. No luck there. Neither with finding an affordable hydraulic press.

left rear shackle (bumper removed)

Hardaground, perhaps a good-quality C-clamp of the appropriate size might work.

I tried that but it didn't work. I think the alignment was not true enough to push it through without binding and the threads were too course on the C clamp. It was a cheap C clamp, made for woodworking.

It was basically a screw press you made. Good job and way to improvise. Grease and a good impact gun would pull it right in. It is good that the new pins are super tight. There was something wrong with the others being that loose. It's almost like someone put the wrong size in years ago.

I have used an air chisel (pneumatic impact gun) to walk the pins out or in place. I have a tool that has a center pin and wider flange to hold the tool in place and push it out. Yes sometimes it takes heat to get the removal started.

I used the same type of set-up as you did using a truck spring center bolt (grade 8) with fine thread and a high nut. Perhaps the fine thread applies a little more pressure.

I just completed pin, bolt, and shackle replacement with repro and NOS parts on all 4 leaf springs. Job took 5 weeks and was more physical than I expected. Had to bring one spring to a machinist to mill an oversize pin and bushing since both eyes were worn beyond spec.
After a brief test ride today, the car feels much more responsive, no scary swaying like before.

Question:
Before I lock down the shackle bolts, anyone know an acceptable.gap between the tension washer and the shackle side, front and rears ? Repair Manual of course says use the special tool. (which we all have) . I can easily slip a .032 feeler gauge in there. I tightened the nut pretty good trying to use common sense. The shackles rotate normal when I push on the bumpers.

I know, the felt isn't called for but thought it might keep road dust out.