Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks


Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Rate Thread
Page 1 of 2 1 2
#399631 12/12/17 02:53 PM
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 317
Backyard Mechanic
OP Offline
Backyard Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 317
Yesterday was my 5th month anniversary on the Chevy Chatter site. I came to this site as an absolute novice when it came down to working on cars, especially cars that were 90 years old. I have learned a significant amount of information from the posts on this site. In addition to this site, the friends that I have made through the National and Local chapters of the VCCA and the wealth of information they have shared with me is truly amazing. For that I'm extremely grateful.

What I intend to do with this topic is discuss my ups and downs thus far and those that are in my future. I'm sure it will be comical for some of you reading about my mistakes and my lack of knowledge. But I'm making progress, really.

I'll try not to bore you, but hopefully I, as a novice, can point out something that will be helpful to someone else down the road. Not all of us grew up playing in and around the garage while their dad was busy working on old cars, I certainly didn't. I had dreamed about doing this for some time, but I think I was just afraid to jump out there and get started because of my lack of knowledge. I know my dad would have loved to have done this with me. He wasn't mechanically skilled but he often talked about his '39 Chevy that he sold for $50 when he went into the service, or his '57 Chevy he had when he was dating my mom.
So, here I go, giving kudos along the way to those that have been so helpful, hope you'll come along for the ride.


[Linked Image from vccachat.org]
This is the day I took possession of my 1925 Superior K, I've named her Belle.


Jeff

1925 Superior K 4 Dr Sedan
1966 C10
2003 Silverado 1500 HD
Filling Station - Chevrolet & GMC Reproduction Parts


Filling Station


Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 317
Backyard Mechanic
OP Offline
Backyard Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 317
I've had what was believed to be a timing problem, still haven't been able to get the car to start. Seems I figure out one problem and another raises it's ugly head.

To date I've had the starter gone through and cleaned, generator rebuilt, new plugs, wires, condenser, coil, points. Radiator had to be cleaned out thoroughly and some leaks patched. Readjusted the lifters and replaced the felt washers. New oil filter installed. Had to replace the fuel pump, once I got it bead blasted it looked like a kaleidoscope. The car had a Tolitson carb on it when I got it and the intake had been modified to accept that carburetor. I had to get a new carburetor and a new intake. I've found that without friends I would have been at an absolute stand still. I've had some super guys come to my rescue more than once. Guys like Roger Orness(IMFALCO) and Gary Schroer, famed restorer and David Love, both of whom happen to be in the Miami Valley Region of the VCCA, my home region, all of these guys have been absolutely instrumental in my efforts to get Belle going again.

This past weekend I pulled the distributor thinking that I might need to reseat it. I did this and tried to locate TDC again and reset the plug order in the distributor. I made a bonehead move and forgot to tighten the distributor up in it's place. When I kicked over the starter it pulled the distributor over into a quick bind, seemingly locking up the motor. I was immediately sick to my stomach. I sent out an SOS that night to both Gary and Roger telling them what I had done and where I thought I was at. They both offered advice that was heeded. Gary called me on Monday about the time I got home and led me through several steps. We were able to remove the fan blade and move the motor backwards; releasing the distributor from the bind it was in. Our immediate fears were 1) is the motor now free to turn, answer YES 2) Check the teeth on the cam, are they all still good, answer YES, whew... 3) Do you have oil pressure? It took us a while to get the pressure up to about 5 or 6 lbs, but she finally came up. The only bad thing seems to be that the distributor was dry from the thorough cleaning that I had put it through and didn't grease it up enough once I was done. Because I hadn't removed the shaft on the distributor we believe that some of the filth had ran down along the wall of the shaft and had caused it to become a burden on it's ability to turn. I ran up to Gary's place tonight and he supplied me with a second distributor that we will use to try to get her started tomorrow.

The saga continues, but I can almost hear her running, what a joy that will be...Hey Dean, I'll try to get that on film :)


Jeff

1925 Superior K 4 Dr Sedan
1966 C10
2003 Silverado 1500 HD
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,511
Likes: 47
ChatMaster - 3,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 3,000
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,511
Likes: 47
Step by step, inch by inch. That's what it takes!

Sounds like you are making good progress. Don't forget to put the flat washer/bearing on top of the oil pump shaft. This keeps the point plate in the distributor raised above the centrifugal advance assembly.

Looking forward to your video!

Dean


Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
old and ugly is beautiful!



Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 317
Backyard Mechanic
OP Offline
Backyard Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 317
Dean,
I was looking on your rebuild thread for pics of this washer/bearing that you mentioned. I know that you have mentioned it before. Do you have a pic of this or know where I might find one. Guessing maybe on a parts list drawing or something??


Jeff

1925 Superior K 4 Dr Sedan
1966 C10
2003 Silverado 1500 HD
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,511
Likes: 47
ChatMaster - 3,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 3,000
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,511
Likes: 47
I don't think I took a picture of the washer, just mentioned it in the text.

According to jack39rdster:
Quote
Ok, I found the 4 Cylinder parts manual at Keith Hardy's site.
The 4 Cylinder thrust washer is the same part number as the 1929 -1936 thrust washer. 346732

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/parts/1916_28/cp4cm09.htm


You can purchase a new one from the www.Fillingstation.com, part number FS-435

Cheers, Dean


Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
old and ugly is beautiful!



Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 317
Backyard Mechanic
OP Offline
Backyard Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 317
I was unaware that all distributor's were not made alike. I just figured if it was a model 635-b that it should work. Gary quickly made me aware that this was not the case. The distributor shafts can be different length's, who'd have known? We were able to find one in his cache that was close but not exact, but I believe it will work. The fear of course was that the shaft wouldn't reach all the way to the oil pump mechanism.

So I put the "new" distributor in place to make sure that the stem was long enough to reach the oil pump mechanism. The motor turned over very sluggishly but I was able to see the oil gauge register move to between 2 and 3 lbs, so I believe that the "new" distributor will indeed work. I need to swap out the old points and rotor and we should be back in business with the distributor.



Jeff

1925 Superior K 4 Dr Sedan
1966 C10
2003 Silverado 1500 HD
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,511
Likes: 47
ChatMaster - 3,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 3,000
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,511
Likes: 47
I can think of three possible causes of the motor turning over sluggishly:

1. The battery cables are too small in diameter. The need to be 00 or larger. The 6v systems carry twice the amps as the 12v systems.

2. The ground connection is not so good. Corrosion happens. Make sure the battery ground is making good contact and that the starter-to-block and block-to-chassis connections are clean. In some places, I put a star lock washer to dig in and make the connection better.

3. The starter might need refreshing. Basically, cleaning the commutator and the brushes.

Cheers, Dean

Last edited by Rustoholic; 12/20/17 12:56 PM.

Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
old and ugly is beautiful!



Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 317
Backyard Mechanic
OP Offline
Backyard Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 317
Thanks for your input Dean. I think I have most of this covered.

1. I just put together some new cables. I made them myself using 2/0 welder's cable. So I'm good there, my other cables were possibly the originals and were lacking for sure.

2. Currently my ground is going to the frame. I just purchase a new ground cable and I'll be mounting that directly to the tranny. So I should have that corrected soon too, possibly tonight. Star lock washer is a good idea.

3. I've had the starter gone through and cleaned, so check there also.

I still think deep down that it's all in the timing. I'll get it, eventually. I know that you are anxious about seeing that video popcorn

Last edited by jtroberts64; 12/20/17 01:16 PM.

Jeff

1925 Superior K 4 Dr Sedan
1966 C10
2003 Silverado 1500 HD
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,896
Likes: 28
ChatMaster - 1,500
Offline
ChatMaster - 1,500
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,896
Likes: 28
Jeff,

That is strange that the 635B would have different shaft lengths and still retain the same unit number. I checked three old books (30,33,45) and all show shaft 821538 for the 635B. Maybe the service part was changed in the years after the war.

One other thought you might be able to use the 635B on different applications than cataloged if you change the shaft. Maybe the experts will weigh in.

Dave

Last edited by Dave39MD; 12/20/17 01:56 PM.
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 317
Backyard Mechanic
OP Offline
Backyard Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 317
Yeah, hopefully someone will pipe in.

All I know is that we had 4 different 635b's sitting on the table and none of them matched up (length wise) with mine. Seems like a couple were different in another way also, but can't remember for sure what it was. Possibly the location the latches matched up with the through hole in the side of the distributor wall, but not totally sure.


Jeff

1925 Superior K 4 Dr Sedan
1966 C10
2003 Silverado 1500 HD
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 317
Backyard Mechanic
OP Offline
Backyard Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 317
Well, a lot has transpired in 30 days and unfortunately not all of it is good news.

Let's get the bad news out of the way first. So I got my radiator reinstalled and figured I was about ready to start things up and take a ride around the neighborhood. I poured the antifreeze (50/50) into the radiator and it didn't take long to see that I had more problems to work out. Seems very few things go as planned. I had antifreeze coming out of my block and from around the freeze plug. Not good, even a novice like me knew this wasn't good news. So the crack in the block is behind the oil filler tube.

[Linked Image from vccachat.org]
[Linked Image from vccachat.org]

So, I'm looking at pulling the motor instead of pulling out of my garage. Going to look at having the cracked fixed first, then we'll go from there. I'm also looking around to see if I can find a '28 motor, any leads appreciated.

The good news is that I've got most of my rewiring completed. I now have working lights.

I also started work on my windows. All of the rubber on this 93 year old car are as hard as rock, many have deteriorated to where the windows wouldn't budge. I've broken down each door and will be replacing all of the rubber and a few of the window channel's were broken, they have to be replaced too. I've got all that $tuff ordered from Gary Wallace.

So, even though the engine is going to slow me down I'll have other stuff to work on while I'm waiting.

Keep pressing on. I really wanted this thing running by May, I've got a special little parade I wanted to be in in June. Hope I can still make it.

Last edited by jtroberts64; 01/27/18 12:36 PM.

Jeff

1925 Superior K 4 Dr Sedan
1966 C10
2003 Silverado 1500 HD
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,558
ChatMaster - 1,500
Offline
ChatMaster - 1,500
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,558
Jeff, Putting in a new freeze plug shouldn't be much of a problem, if you can find one. As for the block crack, I have a friend who fixed such a crack on his '38 Chevy doodle bug many years ago by grinding a "v" the length of the crack and filling it with J-B Weld. He drove it that way for years around his hunting camp without a leak. A couple of years ago, I went there and got several parts off it. They came off real easy even though it has been in the woods for 25 years. One of the things I got was the transmission and when I got it home, I took the cover off and it looked great! Of course, this would be a temporary fix but my be worth your time and trouble for a short term one. Beamer

Last edited by Beamer; 01/27/18 06:05 PM. Reason: typo

Chat Region Member
2017 GMC Canyon
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,213
ChatMaster - 1,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 1,000
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,213
You'll probably find that the "crack" could be that the interior of the block has corroded to the point,where continued heating and cooling due to normal usage has weakened the block casting,and the anti freeze/anti boil solution has shifted any thick rust scale that may have been "sealing" the weakened area.Or,it could be a crack from water being frozen in the cooling system during the winter.Either way,if the casting area around the crack is thick enough,you may be able to get the length of the crack "stitched" with cast iron studs.
As for the leaking freeze plug,if the counterbore of the block that the edges of the plug seat up against are pitted in any way,replacing it with a new 1" diameter plug won't seal it properly(even with a good sealant applied to the bore in the block),as the expansion & contraction due to normal engine use will weaken the sealant.And don't forget that there's another 1" diameter freeze plug at the rear of the block,and (2) 5/8"?/3/4"? diameter freeze plugs on the top of the head as well.
When I had the engine re-built for my '28 1 ton truck 19 years ago,I had the engine re-builder bore out the 2,1" diameter freeze plug holes to take brass "cup" type expansion plugs.


CJP'S 29
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 317
Backyard Mechanic
OP Offline
Backyard Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 317
Been a while since I posted. But below are a few things that I've been busy on.

I replaced all of my window channel in all 4 doors, replaced the top seals and flocked rubber side channels in all 4 doors and the glass rest pads.

Replaced the windshield with a new safety glass and of course I had to replace all of the rubber in the channel and the base of the windshield. Thankfully my regulator seemed to be in good condition, the window rows up nicely to provide fresh air.

One problem that I encountered with every window and the windshield was that the thickness of the side channel caused the windows to be so tight they wouldn't go up or down. To solve this issue I sanded off some of the rubber off of the back of each channel, this was a job for sure, but it seemed to do the trick. I did the sanding by flipping my belt sander upside down in my vise, much easier than hand sanding. Before it was all over I felt like I could take a window mechanism from one of these doors apart blindfolded and in my sleep, but we eventually got 'r done.

While I had the covers off the door I sanded them down and painted the interior door panel, probably didn't have too, but I didn't figure it would hurt anything either. I'm going to replace the cardboard door covers with aluminum instead of cardboard.

I replaced all of the door bumpers. I also installed new lace around the cowl and the radiator shell.

One other interesting thing I was able to come up with, I found the 'original' paint color. I noticed that the Fisher body insignia on the lower right side of the cowl had been painted. I knew that the car had been painted at some point, but it was prior to my uncle purchasing the car 53 years ago. I removed the Fisher tag and found the original paint. At some point when the old girl is running I hope to get this color tested to come up with a legit color sample for a 1925 Sedan.


Attached Images
93 year old rubber seals.jpg 20180217_184535.jpg 20180217_185024.jpg 20180220_143735.jpg 20180221_214807.jpg 20180220_143434.jpg original Paint.jpg

Jeff

1925 Superior K 4 Dr Sedan
1966 C10
2003 Silverado 1500 HD
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,739
Likes: 2
ChatMaster - 1,500
Offline
ChatMaster - 1,500
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,739
Likes: 2
Looking great. I would stay with the waterproof board for the interior panels though. They are easier to cover with fabric and attach with small finishing nails. Easier to install then aluminum. You can get the correct panel material from Hampton Coach.

Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,511
Likes: 47
ChatMaster - 3,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 3,000
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,511
Likes: 47
Great progress Jeff. Also, wonderful idea to use the belt sander like that.

And, congrats on finding that original blue spot.

;-) Dean


Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
old and ugly is beautiful!



Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 317
Backyard Mechanic
OP Offline
Backyard Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 317
Some fantastic news to report this evening. After 50+ years of sitting idle, Belle roared to life today. To say that I'm ecstatic would almost be putting a damper on things. I've owned this car for 10 months, I've put a lot of work into her (and $$$) but today made it all worth it. We have been getting close, but just couldn't seem to get over the hump. This morning my son-in-law came by and we decided to pull the carb and check the float level, but before we did he said, let's try it one more time. So we did and she came to life. The 2 videos show our the first and second times in over 50 years that she was able to take deep breathes and exhale.

It looks for sure like I've got a bad head gasket and at least one freeze plug that needs replaced, but I also know that I have a cracked block, but we think it may be fixable. At this time the plan is to pull the motor and try to get the crack fixed, probably put new rings in and whatever else needs to get done. I've got to put my pedal to the metal though, I had plans to be somewhere in June, so not totally sure I can make it, but I'm gonna give it a try.

Thanks to everyone that has helped get me to this point. Special thanks go out to Gary Schroer, David Love, Roger Orness, Dean Meltz and the rest of the 4 Cylinder Interest Group.

Belle comes to life yay



Jeff

1925 Superior K 4 Dr Sedan
1966 C10
2003 Silverado 1500 HD
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 10,379
Likes: 1
Technical Advisor
ChatMaster - 10,000
Offline
Technical Advisor
ChatMaster - 10,000
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 10,379
Likes: 1


The color you have exposed under the Fisher Body Tag is Aquamarine Blue used from 1-1-25 to 1-1-26.


devil Agrin


RAY


Chevradioman
http://www.vccacolumbiariverregion.org/



1925 Superior K Roadster
1928 Convertible, Sport, Cabriolet
1933 Eagle, Coupe
1941 Master Deluxe 5-Passenger Coupe
1950 Styleline Deluxe 4-Door Sedan
1950 Styleline Deluxe Convertible
2002 Pontiac, Montana, Passenger Van
2014 Impala, 4-Door Sedan, White Diamond, LTZ
2017 Silverado, Double Cab, Z71, 4X4, White, Standard Bed, LTZ

If you need a shoulder to cry on, pull off to the side of the road.
Death is the number 1 killer in the world.


Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 317
Backyard Mechanic
OP Offline
Backyard Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 317
That's right Ray, and hopefully sometime soon I can get it tested to be able to provide an accurate modern day color code for others to use. Thanks for your help along the way.


Jeff

1925 Superior K 4 Dr Sedan
1966 C10
2003 Silverado 1500 HD
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 120
Shade Tree Mechanic
Offline
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 120
Congrats, Jeff! It's pretty satisfying when you get them running for the first time.

I'm looking forward to seeing the car soon.

Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 317
Backyard Mechanic
OP Offline
Backyard Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 317
I've got everything taken apart and hope to pull the motor out tonight.

One question. I've got the 2 rear motor mounts removed, is there only one motor mount on the front? And is it on the driver side behind the water pump? It seems to have a square bolt whereas the back two had hex bolts, possibly swapped out when the original motor was swapped out, but just wondering.


Jeff

1925 Superior K 4 Dr Sedan
1966 C10
2003 Silverado 1500 HD
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,511
Likes: 47
ChatMaster - 3,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 3,000
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,511
Likes: 47
I"m not sure about the configuration for your '28 motor sitting in a '25 car.

For '28, there is a u-shaped bracket that holds up the front of the motor. Two bolts hold the top of the bracket to the bottom of the block and one bolt holds the bottom of the bracket to the chassis cross member.

The two bolts on the block might look strange: one being upside down. One bolt goes through the block and has a nut and the other threads into the block (and splash zone inside).

The bolt going through the cross member should have a castle nut and a cotter pin.

Cheers, Dean


Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
old and ugly is beautiful!



Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 317
Backyard Mechanic
OP Offline
Backyard Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 317
On to the next step, trying to get the crack in the block fixed. I'll admit it was hard taking this thing apart after having it running, but I know it had to happen.

Attached Images
motorOut.jpg

Jeff

1925 Superior K 4 Dr Sedan
1966 C10
2003 Silverado 1500 HD
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 317
Backyard Mechanic
OP Offline
Backyard Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 317
Did a compression check. Cold engine. 1-60, 2-58, 3-58, 4-55. How do those numbers compare to a known good engine?

Should clarify I have a '28 motor.

Last edited by jtroberts64; 05/04/18 10:14 PM.

Jeff

1925 Superior K 4 Dr Sedan
1966 C10
2003 Silverado 1500 HD
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,511
Likes: 47
ChatMaster - 3,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 3,000
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,511
Likes: 47
At first glance, your numbers don't look too bad.

Before I tore Lurch's engine down, the compression was around 50 in each of the cylinders. In addition to this low compression number, the cylinders were worn in elipsis and the pistons were not reusable, thus, I dove into reboring and new pistons and rings.

After the rebuild, with only 100 miles on the new engine, the compression went up to 65-70 per cylinder. I don't know enough to speculate if these numbers will go up as the engine breaks in.

It might be interesting if you take out the pistons, ball hone the cylinders (break the glaze), put the pistons back in and redo the compression checks.

Time spent, but not much money.

Keep us posted! Dean


Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
old and ugly is beautiful!



Page 1 of 2 1 2

Link Copied to Clipboard
Support The VCCA!

Enjoy the forum? Become a VCCA member! The World's Best Chevrolet and GMC Club!


Member Photos
1964 Chevrolet Impala SS
1964 Chevrolet Impala SS
by DreamChevy, February 17
My 1933 Chevy 2 Dr. Sedan
My 1933 Chevy 2 Dr. Sedan
by 1939Chevy1, November 24
Back on the road 79 years later
2 1927 Chevrolet Trucks
2 1927 Chevrolet Trucks
by 1927TRUCKS, June 7
Who's Online Now
0 members (), 74 guests, and 8 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Newest Members
NeilA, Jayhicks, Tomvanhouten, Dads29Chevy, Tractorman
18,308 Registered Users
Today's Birthdays
SabrinaKarras, Speedy1
Forum Statistics
Forums58
Topics59,072
Posts429,077
Members18,308
Most Online1,133
Jan 22nd, 2020
 

Notice: Any comments posted herein do not necessarily reflect the official position of the VCCA.

Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.5