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Will a 235 fan blade fit a 216 water pump? Also is it a larger fan or more aggressive angle on the blades? In other words does it move more air than the stock 216 blade? Thanks.
VCCA Member 43216 Save a life, adopt a senior shelter pet. 1938 HB Business Coupe 1953 210 Sedan
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My parts book list one part number for 41-54 and does not differentiate as to 216 or 235 so I would say they are one and the same. #838277 15-3/4 diax2-1/4 bolt circle, 1" shaft hole, and staggered blades.
Steve D
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216 51 to 54 works or as the Ozzies say Vicky-Verky
Old cars have always owned me.
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A 235 car (1953-1954) used the same dan blade as a 216 car, 1939-1952.....except 1939-1949 cars with a 3.73 axle ratioo camw with a slightly larger fan for better cooling. In 1937 and 1938 the Master also had a larger fan but there is a catch here. If the original bushing style water pump was replaced with an improved sealed ball bearing water pump a different fan blade was require as the original would contact the radiator core. Also in 1938 the trucks used a larger water pump. ''what is the blade length of the fan presently on your 1938? If it is 16 1/4" you already have the larger (and noiser) fan blade on your Master.
Gene Schneider
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Thanks Gene. I have the "modern" water pump. I'll sneak out there today with the tape & measure it.
Last edited by Tiny; 12/12/17 08:59 AM.
VCCA Member 43216 Save a life, adopt a senior shelter pet. 1938 HB Business Coupe 1953 210 Sedan
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As it turns out I can't get a good measurement on the blade without pulling it off or having someone on the other side of the car to hold one end of the tape. The only measurement I could get is the "blade" part that rivets to the center is just over 5 1/2" long. The tip of the blade is almost exactly even with the side of the radiator core.
VCCA Member 43216 Save a life, adopt a senior shelter pet. 1938 HB Business Coupe 1953 210 Sedan
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As it turns out I can't get a good measurement on the blade without pulling it off or having someone on the other side of the car to hold one end of the tape. The only measurement I could get is the "blade" part that rivets to the center is just over 5 1/2" long. The tip of the blade is almost exactly even with the side of the radiator core. Tiny, I'm curious as to why you're thinking of replacing your fan blade. Are you having cooling issues ...... OR ..... do you have "fractures" within the fan blades themselves ?
1951 Chevy Styleline Deluxe 2 door sedan / purchased from second owner 6-19-2000.
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No real issues. When driving on 90 plus days it get a tad warm around town, especially after having driven on the highway. It doesn't boil over but gets uncomfortably close to 200. Since there's no shroud to pull more air through the radiator I think a more aggressive or larger fan might help shed heat faster. A couple of 235 fans showed up for sale on another site & got me wondering if they were any larger than my stock fan. As it turns out, my stock fan reaches the side of the radiator so a longer fan likely wouldn't improve things a lot anyway.
Last edited by Tiny; 12/12/17 01:33 PM.
VCCA Member 43216 Save a life, adopt a senior shelter pet. 1938 HB Business Coupe 1953 210 Sedan
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The temperature you are getting would be cosidered normal for a 1938 and a lot of 1937 and 1938 owners would be thrilled to death if theirs ran that low.
Gene Schneider
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No real issues. When driving on 90 plus days it get a tad warm around town, especially after having driven on the highway. It doesn't boil over but gets uncomfortably close to 200. Since there's no shroud to pull more air through the radiator I think a more aggressive or larger fan might help shed heat faster. A couple of 235 fans showed up for sale on another site & got me wondering if they were any larger than my stock fan. As it turns out, my stock fan reaches the side of the radiator so a longer fan likely wouldn't improve things a lot anyway. As Gene has stated, your temps are fine ...... BUT, these ole fans can develop metal fatigue, causing cracks near blade to hub area. End result is break / failure, which sends the blade flying. A friend lost his life when under the hood of his 235 equipped Chevy. He revved the engine, the blade broke off, hit him in the temple area, ending his life. NEVER install a used fan, NEVER attempt to rotate the engine crank, using the fan blades as a lever.
1951 Chevy Styleline Deluxe 2 door sedan / purchased from second owner 6-19-2000.
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I installed the larger fan on my 38. I think it was used on the truck models. The length difference wasn't that dramatic but the blades were wider and had a much deeper profile to them. It made a big difference as I was over heating at idle after rebuilding the engine. I don't think a fan change would improve the situation at highway speed.
My 1951 1 Ton is now on the road! My 38 Master 4 Door is also now on the road .
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"NEVER install a used fan, NEVER attempt to rotate the engine crank, using the fan blades as a lever." Bob, I agree with your statement above for the most part. Never use the fan blade to rotate the engine is sound advice. But "NEVER" install a used fan is not sound advice. I think you meant to say never install a used fan without inspecting it for cracks at the inner section IS sound advice. I lost a fan blade whilst traveling west across WY back in i975. Never did find it until I took the engine out and saw that it had lodged nicely between the block and the starter. It had developed a crack at the hub. Probably from someone before me using it for a lever to turn the engine . I can't see why one would want to replace the fan that is designed for the engine. If that is necessary at low speeds to pull more air then is suppose that may be okay but it seems to me that one is merely masking syemthems without treating the real problem. Don't get alarmed folks, if coolant is circulating then you are not going to do much damage, if any at all, to the engine. Remember that there was a time that the engine merely depended on circulation developed by the different tempertures of the coolant. Something to think about. Best, Charlie 
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"NEVER install a used fan, NEVER attempt to rotate the engine crank, using the fan blades as a lever." Bob, I agree with your statement above for the most part. Never use the fan blade to rotate the engine is sound advice. But "NEVER" install a used fan is not sound advice. I think you meant to say never install a used fan without inspecting it for cracks at the inner section IS sound advice. I lost a fan blade whilst traveling west across WY back in i975. Never did find it until I took the engine out and saw that it had lodged nicely between the block and the starter. It had developed a crack at the hub. Probably from someone before me using it for a lever to turn the engine . I can't see why one would want to replace the fan that is designed for the engine. If that is necessary at low speeds to pull more air then is suppose that may be okay but it seems to me that one is merely masking syemthems without treating the real problem. Don't get alarmed folks, if coolant is circulating then you are not going to do much damage, if any at all, to the engine. Remember that there was a time that the engine merely depended on circulation developed by the different tempertures of the coolant. Something to think about. Best, Charlie  Charlie, I understand your thoughts on a used blade, but here's my perspective. If my existing fan was defective in whatever manner, I would not trust my eyes to determine if a stress crack was beginning in another " not new" fan blade. I would opt to purchase a new blade, instead.
1951 Chevy Styleline Deluxe 2 door sedan / purchased from second owner 6-19-2000.
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Folks, I don't think Bob is origionally from NC. Anyway, did you notice that he has now snook in the caviate "If my existing fan was defective in whatever manner,..." Well, duh. That wasn't in the first statement. Charlie 
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