VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1912-1928 removing rear wheels, 1928 national ab

I would like to remove the rear and front wheels from 1928 chev national ab for break inspection and set up. any tips would be appreciated.
Byrd

After relining all the brakes on my 28, best advice I could give is to get a repair manual. I found previous mechanics had put parts back together out of order. A picture is worth a thousand words.

I have a manual, and I made a puller, but the threads on two of the wheels are a bit dammaged, and I need to clean them up to get the puller to thread on. I was just wondering how difficult it is to pull them. It appears that the rear wheels are on tapers, and wondered how difficult it is to break the seal on the tapers. I remember removing the drums on my wifes 1973 Harley Davidson servicar, and it was a bi--h. i even made a puller for that, but still had to hammer the crap out of it. I also want to put a remote oil filter for spin on oil filters instead of the canister filter, and was wondering if anyone else has done that? Any info would be appreciated.
Byrd

Hi Byrd,

If you have disk wheels this description from an old thread of a puller which does not rely on the hub cap threads may help. Sorry, I can't get a link to work:

QUOTE:Assuming you are talking about disk wheels, you can make a puller easily enough. You will need a steel bar about 7" long and about 2" x 3/4" - size is not critical but it needs to be fairly robust. Drill and tap a hole in the center for, say, a 3/4" UNF bolt. Make sure that the thread on the bolt you use is longer than the thickness of the bar. Size and thread are not critical, but fine threads give more pulling power than coarse threads.

Drill two holes 5 1/2" apart on the center line of the bar, equally spaced about the center hole, say 1/2" diameter.

The lug bolts are 7/16" UNF, so buy or make a couple of 7/16" UNF ready rod long joiner nuts and a length of 7/16 UNF ready rod with a couple of nuts and washers to suit.

Screw the two long nuts onto two opposite lug bolts.

Cut two lengths of ready rod to a length such that, when at least 1/2" of the ready rod is screwed into one of the long nuts, it will project about 3/4" through one of the two unthreaded 1/2" holes in the bar when the bar is held on the axle end.

To use the puller, screw the two lengths of ready rod into the long nuts which have been screwed onto the lug bolts. Slide the bar over the two pieces of ready rod until it is touching the end of the axle and fit the two nuts and washers finger tight to the ends of the two lengths of ready rod. Screwing in the center bolt so it pushes on the end of the axle should now pull the hub off the taper.

If the hub is very obstinate a couple of sharp taps with a hammer on the end of the center bolt of the puller while it is very tight on the end of the axle will often cause it to break loose.

This type of puller has the advantage that it will work on hubs with damaged hub cap threads. NOTE: It will not work in this form on wood spoke wheels. END QUOTE

Is the car driveable? If so, and all else fails, remove the split pins from the back hub retaining nuts and loosen the retaining nut a turn or two. If you then drive in a couple of circles the wheel should come loose on the taper. The front wheels usually come off with no problems when the axle nut is removed.

Frank.

Hi,

I had a similar problem with the left rear wheel of my '28 Canopy Express. It has wooden spokes.

I couldn't use a regular wheel puller because the previous owner used a sledge hammer and smashed all the threads like you wouldn't believe.

He milled the key slot wider and shoved a piece of hex rod in as a key. Then came the sledge!

Anyway, I made up the Rube Goldberg rig below to get the wheel off. I put spacers in the back so the pressure was close to the hub. I tightened the gear puller a fair amount and then whacked the gear puller bolt with a sledge. After three or four whacks, the wheel popped off with a boing!! ;-)

Cheers, Dean

Great info, My 28 has wood wheels, I can clean up the threads with a thread file to get the puller on, I'm just waiting for a nice day to do it now, winter gets in the way again.
Byrd

Byrd,how much pressure would be needed to get that oil through the spin on oil filter? The vane pump delivers volume with lower pressure.With regular oil changes you should be fine with that original filter.

I also wanted a filter that could be easily changed and wasn't as expensive as an original filter.

So, I plumbed a 1950's style canister oil filter in Lurch, my '27 one ton truck. I can buy a filter at Napa for $15. The filter is huge and the oil pressure stayed at 10 psi with the original vane-type oil pump.

Below is a picture of the same setup in Justin, my '28 Canopy Express. Also shown in the photo is an antique fire extinguisher. This is my radiator overflow tank. ;-)

Cheers, Dean

I'm planning to use a motorcycle spin on filter which is a high volume low pressure filter, figure I can mount to firewall where the vaccum was located, as I am now using a electric fuel pump and Zenith carb.
Byrd

Sorry for the off-topic discussion regarding the spin-on oil filter. There have been some interesting points to consider.

The big question to me is the resistance of a canister filter as compared to the high-volume low-pressure spin on filter. That is key to determining whether or not the spin on will have any affect.

Unless I missed something in the other posts the idea is to send oil to the spin-on filter through a line that is connected to a tee fitting for the oil pressure gauge port. The filter will not be used in a full-flow situation. So the volume of oil going to the filter is simply a function of the relative resistance to oil flow in the various parts of the circuit.

Based on various other posts I have read most canister filters (which are connected in a bypass set-up like this) only filter about 10% of the oil. If the spin-on filter has less resistance than the canister then it will get more oil but at the risk of starving the engine. If the resistance is higher than a canister the spin-on filter will get less oil.

Remember that the gauge reading is a function of both the resistance in the overall system and the capability of the oil pump. I agree that if you can maintain the same gauge reading before and after the filter is installed you are probably not starving the engine. The real question is how much oil is really going to the filter.

The original oil filter is mounted to the block using two 5/16-18 bolts, so you can use those threaded holes to mount the new oil filter housing.

One caution, though. Any bolt hole that goes through the block into the oil splash zone can leak if the threads are not sealed. So, put some Permetex #3 on the threads of the bolts before installing them.

Cheers, Dean

So the idea is to keep the filter low on the engine?
Byrd

I was planning to use the origional feed and return from the block, and I guess mount filter to the block near where the origional filter went.
Byrd

bit drastic method! HUb Threads useless....I drilled four holes in hub face, threaded them and made a puller to bolt into the four threaded holes. No peobs. But four unoriginal holes!