Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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#397325 10/27/17 08:26 PM
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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What is the proper adjustment of the inner nut of the clutch fork ball. Is this nut used for some kind of adjustment or is is it tightened against the back of the bell housing?
This is on a 1931 194 engine.
Thanks
Randy
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It is supposed to be tightened with the lock washer to the clutch housing. The adjustment is on the clutch pedal.


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Chipper,
Right, I meant the clutch housing for the inner nut. I might be missing the lock washer in that location.
Thanks
Randy
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The lock washer is a "tooth lock washer" no a split. There is also one between the screw (some may call it a stud) and clutch housing.


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Chipper, having trouble getting enough movement on the clutch fork to release the clutch. My clutch pedal adjusting bolt is at max and I still don't get the proper pedal adjustments. If I back the clutch fork ball out, toward the clutch I can get an adjustment that seems right. The clutch fork ball is the fulcrum and a small adjustment gives major change to the travel distances of the clutch release.
Any thoughts?
Randy.
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Do you have the '31 screw? It is a one year only part. Looks the same as the '32 and later screw. You may need to use a spacer if you have the '32+ screw.


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Chipper,
Not to sure what this spacer is or where it would be placed.
What is the difference between the 31 and 32 adjustment screw?
Thanks again.
Seems like I could use some washers behind the clutch fork ball to tight against to make this work.
Randy Three Window

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I haven't taken the time to find and measure the '31 and '32 and later screws so I don't know the difference. I suspect that the '32 and up clutch pressure plate is thicker so puts the throwout bushing plate further back. If so that would position the ball further back. Might be someone that has dealt with this problem who could shed more light on it.


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Chipper, Thought I would bring you up to date on my clutch wars.
This being the second time I've had the clutch out I wanted to get every thing right.
I have everything resembled and test driven. Things seem to be functioning properly now.
After findING that the clutch plate was faulty I decided to just redo everything.
I had a local shop resurface the flywheel and the presure plate.
I purchased a new Billy Possum clutch plate, clutch throw out bearing sleeve, throw out bearing, and the clutch fork ball and clutch fork ball support from the FS.
When I had the old and new ball support side by side I found the new, 31 correct, to be 11/64 of an inch longer than the one that was in my car. You were right about that.
So the combination of faulty and incorrect parts has been hopefully put to rest.
Thanks for your help
Randy Three Window

Lesson learned....just fix everything. It's easier than reassembling the u joint covered with 600W sticky oil again.

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How long was the correct 31 screw?

Thanks

Dave

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Dave,
The 31 clutch fork ball support thread depth was 47/64 inch
The unknown ball support was 36/64 inch for a difference of
11/64 inch. Doesn't sound like much but with worn parts in the linkage every little bit adds up.
I could have put a couple of washers on the old ball support but the ball was worn so I ordered a new one for the 20 bucks.
This was the last thing in a restoration that my father and I started in 1980. The clutch jerking made driving not fun.
We never could get the clutch to work correctly. It was a good drivable orginal when I bought it in 1965 so I'm pleased that I was able to finally get it going. Probably a lot of backyard mechanics worked on it. Like the rest of us!

Hope this helps,
Randy

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Thanks. I will check mine.

Dave


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