Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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Joined: Feb 2015
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KMK2 Offline OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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This winter I am going to remove and have the steering gear rebuilt. I have done the three adjustments in the 1934 repair manual and reduced the play to something like 6 inches which I still do not like. So it seems the best solution is to bite the bullet and pull the unit out of the car.
The manual tells me that I need to remove the brake pedal from the pedal shaft. This is probably to give more wiggle room to drop the shaft down through the frame. Anyone know how high I may need to jack up the front of the car to get it out?
In looking at the parts list book, I have purchased the correct pitman shaft, thrust bearings for the worm shaft and upper mast jacket bushing. The thing that kind of bothers me is that I have no idea of what the wear is on the worm and I have never seen one listed on ebay or any place else.
So I guess I will see what comes and what comments my local machine shop will have when we get it all apart. I “Do Not Like Driving The Car With That Much Play”.
I would be interested in any comments you fellows might have. If you like my email address is “arlenenkieth@aol.com “.

Filling Station - Chevrolet & GMC Reproduction Parts


Filling Station


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If all else fails you can put a Thunderbird R&P on the car...

Anyway, my experience with 1948 to 1953 Chev (and C1 Corvettes) worm and roller sets is that the worm is hard as nails, and probably won't be worn. I have seen them chipped in which case, it is toast, but the wear should be on your sector shaft or roller/pitman shaft , whichever your box has, and most likely it is just the bushings that need to be replaced if it is roller.

Doug

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I rebuilt my 35 Master last year. The Bushings were wore out, looks like they were Brass but I replaced the whole unit.


Jon T.
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Having assisted in rebuilding one about four years ago, here
is my recollection. I seem to recall that removing the strg
wheel first allowed ample room to remove the assy from inside
the car; once on the workbench, the rest was easy as decribed
in the shop manual. I also recommend filling the box with
multi-vis chassis lube before re-installing unit. Hope this
helps!


flip
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I filled my box with John Deere Corn Head grease, not east to find.


Jon T.
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Originally Posted by KMK2
This winter I am going to remove and have the steering gear rebuilt. . The thing that kind of bothers me is that I have no idea of what the wear is on the worm and I have never seen one listed on ebay or any place else.
comments you fellows might have. If you like my email address is “arlenenkieth@aol.com “.

The 34 master sector shaft is on ebay fairly regularly, and your right the worm part is never listed for sale.

mike

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Chassis will not flow to the outer bushing. That is the main reason that the outer bushing is almost always worn. Use a high viscosity but flowable lubricant. Keep leaking down while lubing the gears, bearings and bushings.


How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!
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Quote
Chassis will not flow to the outer bushing

Obviously you meant "Chassis grease".

laugh wink beer2


The Mangy Old Mutt

"If It's Not Junk.....It's Not Treasure!"
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As a Farmer I can attest to the goodness of Corn Head Grease. John Deere makes along with Case International Harvester many of the "old time" lubes we can use.


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